Rust Prevention on Carbon Steel

H

HoosierQ

Joined
Feb 9, 2010
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I am a long standing member on a guns and knives forum...as I presume are many here.

Over there, it is a huge debate, thread after thread, year after year, as to what is "best" to lube and preserve steel guns. Oil or grease, WD-40 ever or never, less filling vs. tastes great...etc.

So I tend to use Breakfree CLP on my knives and I am also trying EZOX.

So what do folks here use on Carbon Steel knives (and tools) to preserve and prevent rust?
 
or just about any good wax. On kitchen knives I just use vegetable or olive oil.I have heard just about everything- so imagine several things work. A bit of rust on a user doesn't bother me unless it's on the cutting edge - then I sharpen of course.:thumbup:
 
Mineral Oil on knives used in the kitchen or any knife that comes in contact with food. I think its safer than cooking oils as it does not spoil in time. Just my opinion as you will get others as you saw on guns and knives.
 
Yes, there are threads here on BF from time to time about what's best for corrosion protection. And sometimes those threads get pretty lengthy.

For carbon steel knives, after several years trying various products - including BreakFree CLP - I've settled on Tuf-Glide/Tuf-Cloth.
It works very well.

(I'll note that it's also recommended by ESEE, formerly RAT Cutlery.)

Eezox is supposed to be very good also, but it's one of the few corrosion inhibitors I haven't tried.
 
a dab of mineral oil.
 
Breakfree Collector. It meets Mil spec. rating for 5 years protection. Doesn't turn to varnish. It's all I use on guns, knives and tools. I have used Breakfree CLP for years on competition guns and never had a speck of rust even in sweaty summer matches. . Eezox IS very good in every test I have seen. Haven't tried it yet. None of these should probably come in contact with any food though. Don't forget to shake yo CLP!
 
I'm currently using silicone clear liquid from A.G. Russell, and silicone wipes from the gun cleaning section of wal mart. Outers, $2.99.

It's working for me with no hint of oxidation. Of course I make sure to clean any salts or acids off, and dry the knife before treating, and keep it wiped down of fingerprints when I take them out of storage.

With user knives just the silicone cloths wiping down fingerprints and sealing the edge have been enough.

I've tried just about everything over the last 35 years and I've found this about the easiest, and least messy.

Tuff cloths work as well but don't leave the knife as pretty looking. Even the simple carbon steels(1050, 1070, 1084, 1095, etc.), as well as O-1, 52100, 5160,White & blue steels etc, etc, have remained as clean and bright as the day I bought them.

Of course I don't store in leather sheaths, or anything wet or hostile to steel.
 
If it's a folder, probably any lube will work just fine on the mechanism, especially if the carbon steel is coated, but if the blade comes in contact with food, I'd only want mineral oil on it.
 
There's no perfect solution, especially for hard use. I've tried Renaissance wax, Tuff Cloth/Glide, the Marine version and various oils. For storage or very light use Ren Wax is very good. Mixed results with the Tuff family.
Any oil that can spoil is problematic ( there'll be a residue in the sheath and you can't rule out having to use your knife for food) so on balance I have to agree with nontoxic nonspoiling oil. In the field, constant care is required and in some situations it just isn't realistic ( especially if you are on the water and get stuck out there). For real users you just have to get used to a patina. It's like a badge of pride ;)
 
HoosierQ said:
Over there, it is a huge debate, thread after thread, year after year, as to what is "best" to lube and preserve
Click to expand...

When it comes to knives I find the endless debate quite strange. It isn't rocket surgery you know.

With most knives there is going to be a time where they will be used on something you will eat, I wouldn't rule out that possibility even on my big knives that I use for chopping wood. Just keep the knives clean & dry - that is your primary rust prevention method. The secondary rust prevention measure would be to wipe some mineral oil on the blade - this is food safe and wont cause a 'funny taste' when you cut something to eat. If keeping the knife clean & dry and lubing it with mineral oil doesn't keep the rust off then nothing will! If you are using a knife near sea water and it rusts no matter what you do then you need to buy a new knife with an H1 blade.

BK9 does food prep:
IMG_8405.JPG

But I should have used a wooden cutting board, that plastic one is now two.
The knife is 1095 CroVan Carbon Steel and has no rust - I keep in clean and dry and I wipe it with mineral oil, nothing else needs to be done!
 
The Mastiff said:
I'm currently using silicone clear liquid from A.G. Russell, and silicone wipes from the gun cleaning section of wal mart. Outers, $2.99. Tuff cloths work as well but don't leave the knife as pretty looking. Of course I don't store in leather sheaths, or anything wet or hostile to steel.
Click to expand...

I haven't had that issue with Tuf-Cloth.
It leaves my blades looking the same as before its application, and it is very effective as a corrosion inhibitor.

HJK said:
There's no perfect solution, especially for hard use. I've tried Renaissance wax, Tuff Cloth/Glide, the Marine version and various oils. For storage or very light use Ren Wax is very good. Mixed results with the Tuff family.
Click to expand...

For storage, I use A.G. Russell RustFree (silicone). Over the years it has worked flawlessly, 100%. :thumbup:
 
Nothing works better on guns than BF CLP.

As far as knives go , CLP is great for cleaning old rusted knives but if it's a knife that I would possibly use in food prep ( fishing , hunting etc ) I would use something less toxic.

I usually do not oil any of my blades on the blade part , even my Mora's remain rust free , if you take proper care of them they will not rust.

Tostig
 
tonydahose said:
LOL, i didn't even notice that is was broken till you mentioned it, i just thought it was 2 small boards:D was the mrs watching when you did that?
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Well, it is 2 small boards, NOW! I made sure I didn't have an audience, just in case! You didn't really do something stupid if no one saw you do it! Today I grabbed a new chopping board - I went with a wooden one. I saw the plastic ones for a couple of bucks and thought about buying another one of those, then I realised that it was only a small sized one and I thought "I already have 2 small ones now, it's not worth spending money buying another one.
 
Most oils will evaporate over time. Grease is the best thing for long term storage.

Personally I just try to buy stainless steel most of the time. Its a lot less hassle.
 
For my kitchen knives I use nothing. I have 3 carbon steel knives. None show rust. 2 get used often and 1 Hiromoto HC 300mm gyuto gets used very little. Over the last 2 years It has sat in its box maybe being used a few times. After use it's cleaned and dried and stored in it's box in a drawer of the kitchen. I live on the central west cost of Florida. Doesn't get much more humid than that and the knife has a light uniform patina but otherwise looks new.
 
Use a little vinegar or lemon juice, and CAREFULLY put on a controlled patina. :thumbup:

That's all you need! :p
 
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