S110V Trouble

D

Dorkus Buttwhistle

Joined
Jun 18, 2017
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32
Hi gang. I have a PM2 S110v that is driving me nuts. I've been trying to get a decent edge back on it after some use. My routine that works for all my other knives is a 30 degree back bevel and a 40 degree edge. I normally do the back bevel on a sharp maker with CBN or on an edge pro, and do the edge bevel with the brown rods. I use marker to keep track of where I'm taking metal off. I can get the last 2/3 of the blade sharp enough for me, which means it takes arm hair off no problem, but the 1/3 of the blade near the heal just isn't taking an edge. I used the edge pro to knock that back bevel down to 20ish degrees, got a burr on both sides, hit the 40 degree rods again with no success.

Any ideas? I'm really not sure what I'm doing wrong...
 
Sounds like a burr removal issue to me. Can you try stropping or using a fine or ultrafine rod very lightly?
 
In my limited experience, S110V and its friends develop lingering burrs. I normally use diamond suspension strop to partially polish the edge and removing the burr as much as possible at the same time. I have had a OK result with running the edge very very lightly on the Edge Pro ceramic rod as well. Good luck.
 
Well... that was easy. A few light passes on the corners of the fine white rods, like less than the weight of the knife, and it slices newsprint heel to tip. I think the trick was the light pressure. So it was a tiny burr I couldn't see or feel?
 
I think so.
I am glad that you got an edge you like. But make sure that it is not a wire edge. Run the edge on a hard wood block with a light pressure and check the edge under intense light (preferably sun light). If you see bright spots on the edge, you might have had a wire edge. You may want to run the edge again very very lightly on the fine rod to remove it.

The thing is that a wire edge feels extremely keen but does not last long.
 
I ran the edge lightly, backwards, on a piece of oak at about 40 degrees (trying to match the edge bevel). I couldn't check under sunlight, but under bright indoor lighting I couldn't see any bright spots. I'll watch for that though, thanks for the help.
 
miso2 said:
Sounds like a burr removal issue to me. Can you try stropping or using a fine or ultrafine rod very lightly?
Click to expand...

Having similar issue with my S110V PM2. Can't picture the underlined part, can you describe? Do you mean sort of strop down the rods and a lesser angle?
 
D Dorkus Buttwhistle
I am glad that it worked out for you. I normally run the edge at 90 degree on a wood block or cut a piece of cardboard for testing.

ndmiller ndmiller
What I meant there was to use a fine rod to deburr. In general, it would be better to raise the angle for burr removal. Assuming that you use Sharpmaker, if you sharpen your blade at 30 degree, deburring at 40 degree would be more effective than staying at the same angle. As the OP stated, very light pressure is the key. I personally use a strop and do not have a sharpmaker myself.
 
Yep, patience and a fine stone (rod) with light pressure seems to be key. On the super light passes on the sharpmaker with the fine white rods, I canted the knife a few degrees in hopes of removing whatever wire edge or burr was there. It seems to have worked. Note that I also did work on the back bevel, my PM2 was quite thick behind the edge. Using a marker and judging by a few sharp maker swipes, it was originally close to 40 degrees. I doubt that has much to do with the current topic, but then again, I'm not sure.
 
Ceramics are good but IMO not that great for high Carbide volume steels. I would highly recommend the DMT Coarse and balsa strop with 1 micron diamond compound. It will not only give you a very sharp edge but one that will last and be easy to maintain.
 
Jason B. said:
Ceramics are good but IMO not that great for high Carbide volume steels. I would highly recommend the DMT Coarse and balsa strop with 1 micron diamond compound. It will not only give you a very sharp edge but one that will last and be easy to maintain.
Click to expand...

So you're saying get a coarse diamond stone and a strop with compound, don't even use ceramics or water stones?
 
Depends,

The DMT Coarse is a coarser stone but one that also produces a very sharp and somewhat fine edge depending on the sharpening pressure used and the alloy type. Harder and more wear resistant steels tend to take a better edge from diamonds than lower grade alloys.

The Coarse DMT is simply known for the quality edge it produces. I cannot say the same about the CBN rods because I have never used them personally, and they don't seem to get as much buzz around here.
 
Got the DMT coarse and 1 mic paste... the good news is my normal steel knives are sharper than ever because of the strop, but the bad news is I suck at freehand on the plate.
 
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