S110V Trouble

You can get a diamond stone or lapping tape, which can be mounted on Edge Pro. A small DMT stone can also fit in.
 
When new diamonds can be very aggressive and the feel is a bit weird till they smooth out.

With practice you will be able to maintain consistent angles on the DMT.
 
D Dorkus Buttwhistle
You are welcome.
I don't remember the exact post, but someone wrote that you can mount a 4x6 DMT plate on Edge Pro.
For compatible stones, take a look at Gritomatic.
I myself use silicon carbide stones for S110V followed by diamond paste at 1 micron.
 
Thought I'd check back in on this one in case somebody else can use the info... I got the edge bevel pretty consistent using a small DMT diamond plate. Since then, I've been doing 20 degree per side touchups on my sharp maker with the brown rods, which leaves a region of sharpened edge that is maybe 0.010" with the sharpie test. I'm happy with how it cuts. I can't get it as sharp as my VG10 Delica, but I'm getting there.
 
Chris "Anagarika" said:
Please come back & post if you ever get it as sharp as the VG10.

I can’t :(, up to DMT EEF, deburr on the same.
Click to expand...

Sure, I will keep you posted. In the meantime, I can tell you I struggled a bit with constant angles, both on edge bevels and back bevels. Getting more constant angles was an improvement on S110V, and I feel like VG10 and 154CM for example let me get away with some inaccuracy. It was after messing with 110V for a while that my VG10 edges got to be push cutting receipt paper sharp. Next I'll try and sharpen a cinder block to improve my 110V edges...
 
Chris "Anagarika" said:
Please come back & post if you ever get it as sharp as the VG10.

I can’t :(, up to DMT EEF, deburr on the same.
Click to expand...

OK, I learned something else new. I apexed the edge at 30 degrees on my sharp maker with CBN rods, and I had a tiny burr. After I was sure It was apexed at 30 (15 dps), I gave it a few light strokes on the fine (white) rods at 40 degrees, maybe 5 or 6 strokes per side. Now it will push cut receipt paper.
 
Dorkus Buttwhistle said:
OK, I learned something else new. I apexed the edge at 30 degrees on my sharp maker with CBN rods, and I had a tiny burr. After I was sure It was apexed at 30 (15 dps), I gave it a few light strokes on the fine (white) rods at 40 degrees, maybe 5 or 6 strokes per side. Now it will push cut receipt paper.
Click to expand...

Well,

I went back to EF (1200) and then to EEF. It got sharper, but still not at VG10 or even M4 level.
 
CBN rods should have no problem tackling s110v or high carbide steels. Diamond, CBN or SiC all work ok for these types of steel because they can cut the carbides.

Not that a DMT plate isn't better. More surface area is a good thing. Hold onto those CBN rods though. Rods are way better for doing recurves or serrations than a plate.
 
Chris "Anagarika" said:
Well,

I went back to EF (1200) and then to EEF. It got sharper, but still not at VG10 or even M4 level.
Click to expand...

Hey. For the longest time i could not get my s90v and s30v as sharp as my vg10 and s35vn. I just attributed it to the steel. But in my case i learned that i still had a tiny, tiny burr that i could not see or feel. The burr would become visible only when i would shine a bright light at the edge. Then i would make very, very, very light, lighter than the weight of the blade, strokes until the burr was gone. I would use the corner or flat of a sharpmaker rod to do it. Suddenly i could get my s30v and s90v as hair popping sharp as my vg10. It would chop down arm hairs without touching the skin. But even though the vg10 delica may have still been sharper, the s90v would slice through paper towel nicer.
 
microtech85 said:
Hey. For the longest time i could not get my s90v and s30v as sharp as my vg10 and s35vn. I just attributed it to the steel. But in my case i learned that i still had a tiny, tiny burr that i could not see or feel. The burr would become visible only when i would shine a bright light at the edge. Then i would make very, very, very light, lighter than the weight of the blade, strokes until the burr was gone. I would use the corner or flat of a sharpmaker rod to do it. Suddenly i could get my s30v and s90v as hair popping sharp as my vg10. It would chop down arm hairs without touching the skin. But even though the vg10 delica may have still been sharper, the s90v would slice through paper towel nicer.
Click to expand...

Thanks for sharing this tips. I thought I have fully removed the burr. Probably not. Will try this.
:thumbsup:
 
My biggest issue with s110v is small microchipping. Very light pressure and maybe a few passes on fine diamond lapping film or diamond compound can make a huge difference. Normally I apply a microbevel with the EEF, very light touch. Burrs not really a problem, but the edge forming up rough can be.
 
Martin,

Thank you. I’ll keep this in mind as well. Strop with 3micron diamond after EEF perhaps?

HeavyHanded said:
My biggest issue with s110v is small microchipping. Very light pressure and maybe a few passes on fine diamond lapping film or diamond compound can make a huge difference. Normally I apply a microbevel with the EEF, very light touch. Burrs not really a problem, but the edge forming up rough can be.
Click to expand...
 
Chris "Anagarika" said:
Martin,

Thank you. I’ll keep this in mind as well. Strop with 3micron diamond after EEF perhaps?
Click to expand...

Chris, maybe.
Gotta take a close look at the edge coming off your last stone. This is a steel that tends to be HT'd pretty hard, and while tough it does seem prone to chipping on the fine abrasives with anything but super light pressure. The chips being extremely small. I've had best luck leaving this toothy somehow - either stop at a fine Crystalon, or I'll take it up to a fine DMT and then right to a microbevel on EEF using about an exhale's worth of pressure on the micro passes. Edge is still plenty bitey but treetops hair in piles.

Shooting for a real polished, uniform edge - definitely some stropping or lapping film to finish IMHO.
 
HeavyHanded said:
Chris, maybe.
Gotta take a close look at the edge coming off your last stone. This is a steel that tends to be HT'd pretty hard, and while tough it does seem prone to chipping on the fine abrasives with anything but super light pressure. The chips being extremely small. I've had best luck leaving this toothy somehow - either stop at a fine Crystalon, or I'll take it up to a fine DMT and then right to a microbevel on EEF using about an exhale's worth of pressure on the micro passes. Edge is still plenty bitey but treetops hair in piles.
Click to expand...

Do the EF grits in the 1K to 1200 range not even add much value to these types of steels? I noticed last night in another thread, Jason had something similar, basically go DMT coarse straight to strop with compound, cutting out any "EF" type of step. I actually tried this last night on an M390 and it worked. So now I'm wondering if EF doesn't even really add anything. Just go from something coarse straight to a high-grit finishing option.
 
Martin :thumbsup:, Well said!

Instead of 'either' - I use a dulled(quite worn-out) DMT EE to remove residual burrs, then sharp EE to edge-lead to backhone at - sharpening angle or microbevel at higher dps - on all steels with hard particles (carbide & nitride). MHO - when apex width is less than particle diameter, edgy exposed particle is more durable than exposed spheroid top.

HeavyHanded said:
Chris, maybe.
Gotta take a close look at the edge coming off your last stone. This is a steel that tends to be HT'd pretty hard, and while tough it does seem prone to chipping on the fine abrasives with anything but super light pressure. The chips being extremely small. I've had best luck leaving this toothy somehow - either stop at a fine Crystalon, or I'll take it up to a fine DMT and then right to a microbevel on EEF using about an exhale's worth of pressure on the micro passes. Edge is still plenty bitey but treetops hair in piles.

Shooting for a real polished, uniform edge - definitely some stropping or lapping film to finish IMHO.
Click to expand...
 
microtech85 said:
Hey. For the longest time i could not get my s90v and s30v as sharp as my vg10 and s35vn. I just attributed it to the steel. But in my case i learned that i still had a tiny, tiny burr that i could not see or feel. The burr would become visible only when i would shine a bright light at the edge. Then i would make very, very, very light, lighter than the weight of the blade, strokes until the burr was gone. I would use the corner or flat of a sharpmaker rod to do it. Suddenly i could get my s30v and s90v as hair popping sharp as my vg10. It would chop down arm hairs without touching the skin. But even though the vg10 delica may have still been sharper, the s90v would slice through paper towel nicer.
Click to expand...

Micro that's a good tip and does work. I've used the UF rod that way. Do you notice any difference in the F and UF rods when using for a finishing role like this?
 
Certainly EF affects the edge prior to strop. Magnitude & affectiveness of EF edge topoloty - no big surpise - depend on a few things. Affectiveness can be positive or negative (depend on function). Deductively true for XXC to EEF to submicron diamond film on glass.



maximus83 said:
Do the EF grits in the 1K to 1200 range not even add much value to these types of steels? I noticed last night in another thread, Jason had something similar, basically go DMT coarse straight to strop with compound, cutting out any "EF" type of step. I actually tried this last night on an M390 and it worked. So now I'm wondering if EF doesn't even really add anything. Just go from something coarse straight to a high-grit finishing option.
Click to expand...
 
maximus83 said:
Do the EF grits in the 1K to 1200 range not even add much value to these types of steels? I noticed last night in another thread, Jason had something similar, basically go DMT coarse straight to strop with compound, cutting out any "EF" type of step. I actually tried this last night on an M390 and it worked. So now I'm wondering if EF doesn't even really add anything. Just go from something coarse straight to a high-grit finishing option.
Click to expand...

bluntcut said:
MHO - when apex width is less than particle diameter, edgy exposed particle is more durable than exposed spheroid top.
Click to expand...

This (^) is how I view it as well. While either approach will give you a good edge, there are several factors at work here. Many HC steels are run to high Rockwell, so the relative effect of the rougher abrasives is to make a finer edge in the first place at any given grit. And then there is how long it performs at a high level before it drops down to a long-lived working edge, and that will depend on how its used more than anything.

I find if I micro to the point where the finer abrasive has overground the surface finish of the rougher grade but not erased all the in line irregularities is the sweet spot. This can be done with a coarse stone and micro but unlike with low carbide steels, I find too big a jump makes for a less nice outcome. Fine to EEF or similar is perfect.

Is possible the end result is an edge very similar to the coarse finish and stropped edge, with the fine diamond compound taking the role of the fine abrasive micro. As mentioned, I've gotten very good results just using a Crystalon with a light touch and not even strop on anything more than some plain paper to help verify burr removal.
 
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