The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
What I mean is that you've presupposed that what you're observing is missing carbides. We have an image, but the interpretation of that image can be disputed.^Eager to learn what the completely different reasons are, for the missing carbides.![]()
Again, I find tearout on sintered ceramics to be a very dubious concept. If tearout were to occur it would be on softer stones.
Hi Gorgeous!
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This knife is cut and made from Comet circular saw M35 HSS steel , 1.8mm thick ....Sharpened /first and only time for now/ on cheap /china made/ 400 grit stone .After three months in the kitchen , still shaving sharpAt the coarse end it really doesn't seem to make a difference right up to the fine Crystalon and maybe a little beyond. At least there is no appreciable difference, and if there is no anecdotal change you are unlikely to find one with less subjective testing. I've gotten very nice edges off the Crystalon.
In theory you want the "softer" friable abrasives at the coarse end for your set-up, as these will cause the least subsurface carbide/crystal lattice displacement. In practice I'm not sure there is going to be a big difference, especially if you are grinding away all trace of the deeper scratches. If stopping at a coarse level, a diamond plate in good shape should give you better results. Testing this vis a vis might be tough because again, you cannot really compare apples to apples when one of the apples is an orange.
When resetting a bevel on high carbide steels where there is a significant angle change I use a diamond plate.
I'm guessing high carbide non stainless steels won't lose as much carbide as their stainless counterparts
To my admittedly untrained eye, the updated photo illustrates what you'd expect if you told somebody you sharpened an edge with 2 different abrasives that are different materials, and are also at different grit ratings (in this case the EEF is a higher grit than the F ceramic): so the resulting edges look different, one is finer/thinner than the other.
Beyond that, I'm not seeing details that suggest something remarkable is going on. If that detail is there, interested to hear some commentary on it.
I have several knives in m35, mine are stock removal from metal cutting parting tools.This knife is cut and made from Comet circular saw M35 HSS steel , 1.8mm thick ....Sharpened /first and only time for now/ on cheap /china made/ 400 grit stone .After three months in the kitchen , still shaving sharp![]()
Just imagine - what if protruding perfect spherical Vanadium carbides are cemented(with martensite or cobalt) in an invincible surface with holes at various depth for VC implant. After an hour of rubbing UF/F/M against these cemented VCs, please guess fun % (adding to 100) what happen/taken-place to VC:
1. basically nothing, VCs are still cemented and maybe a bit polished √
2. top of VC are lopped-off, now flush with invincible surface
3. VC got yanked out, leaving craters/holes on surface