S30V carpel tunnel fears

Bruce Bump

Bruce Bump

Joined
Dec 2, 1999
Messages
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What is the best way to hand rub a nice satin finish on S30V? The belt scratches are a real pain. Ive have always just went up in grits as usual but it will eventually take its toll on my hands and wrists.

I have 60 blades that are 154 cm also. They are not that much easier either.
 
Take it to 400 grit on the wheel/platen then hit it with a fine scotchbrite belt - is what I'd do. Then follow up with hand rubbing.
 
Daniel Koster said:
Take it to 400 grit on the wheel/platen then hit it with a fine scotchbrite belt - is what I'd do. Then follow up with hand rubbing.
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Ive tried the scotchbrite belt but maybe mine is worn out. It doesnt seem to remove any scratches. Ive tried cork belts too.
 
I go to 220 and switch to a new 400 belt. A quick sand and then to an 8" scotch brite wheel, followed by a cleanup on the belt sander with a fine scotch brite belt. Leaves a smooth satin finish.
Stacy
 
bladsmth said:
I go to 220 and switch to a new 400 belt. A quick sand and then to an 8" scotch brite wheel, followed by a cleanup on the belt sander with a fine scotch brite belt. Leaves a smooth satin finish.
Stacy
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hmmm, I will try it. Thanks Stacy.

Anybody else care to share their method?
 
Bruce, do you want a satin belt finish or a hand rubbed finish??

Two different animals. Everyone is telling you how to do a satin finish, not really what you were looking for.

Most of the new more wear resistant steels (S30V especially at RC 60) are a S.O.B. to hand rub... period.

There are some things I have learned though. First are you flat grinding or hollow grinding?

Tom
 
Tom Krein said:
Bruce, do you want a satin belt finish or a hand rubbed finish??

Two different animals. Everyone is telling you how to do a satin finish, not really what you were looking for.

Most of the new more wear resistant steels (S30V especially at RC 60) are a S.O.B. to hand rub... period.

There are some things I have learned though. First are you flat grinding or hollow grinding?

Tom
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Tom, yes I want a hand rubbed finish. Im just having a heck of a time getting the scratches out. They are hollow ground on a 14" wheel.
 
run the blades to a A45 gator belt and then start with 400 grit hand sand on hard backer then swap to a leather backed 400 or 600
that will fix you right up
and when i say gator i mean the heavy gator belts not the trisac ones 45 is smal a grit as have eve see gators come in
 
This is where you have to go all Mr. Miagi on us. Invite a few of us over to "learn the ways of the master" then hand us all the different grits of paper. "Straight lines, one direction, Smooth Even Strokes.......Good Daniel'san" then come back in 10 hours...........after fishing or something fun. (heck, I would be willing to paint the house, or wax on wax off with all the cars, or sand the deck etc to learn from a master like you)..........Then at the end, when we had learned enough, we could win the trophy at the big martial arts convention (oh wait, mixing areas, I guess it would be testing for MS)
 
Have you tried well broken in cork belts? try taking blade to 400..,then to 400 cork belt with green compound, followed by 600 cork with green compound.this has really helped me in hand finishing cpm-154.just make sure they're well broken in.
 
Bruce,

What I do is go to 400 with a belt, then back to 280 paper on a palm sander that's had the soft foam pad replaced with Micarta. For a lubricant I use cutting fluid. It just seems to work a little better. Then move up to 400 on the palm sander, then 600, then I hand rub the final scratch pattern on with a leather backed stick and switch to Windex instead of the cutting fluid. Works like a charm.

Also, try the Indasa Rhynowet paper from Supergrit. It cuts like the dickens, makes scratches go away quick, and lasts a lot longer than SiC paper. I still use SiC paper for the final finish though since the Rhynowet stuff cuts so well that it's kind of "grabby" and gives you a slightly less even scratch pattern. They have it all the way up to 2500 grit or something.

-d
 
Bruce, here is how I do hollow ground blades. First go over the flats with a 400 grit belt. Then hand rub to 400 grit, stepping down to 320 and then going up to 400 grit is usually helpful. Helps get rid of any harsh scratch marks you may have missed. Use plenty of WD-40 for cutting fluid as this really improves the cutting ability of the paper.

The hollows are where it gets tricky! I put very good belt finish on the blades up to 400 grit. Make sure and get all the scratches to 400 grit. If you start rubbing the hollows and see that you have some coarser scratches set it aside after checking both sides and when done checking the batch go back to the belt grinder and get them. I find a sharpie marker during this part VERY helpful. Mark the scratches so you don't have to look for them later.

Once you have a good 400 grit belt finish on the blades it is time to make the scratches go the other way. The EASIEST method I have found will also get you a bit of ridicule if someone walks in your shop while you are doing it!!:D

Instead of cutting a block to match your wheel, just use your wheel ON the grinder. Yep, put a NEW 400 grit belt on your grinder, BUT DON'T TURN IT ON!! Now rub the blade back and forth, use plenty of WD-40!! You WILL feel pretty dumb while doing this, but it works better than anything else I have tried. USE YOUR BODY TO MOVE THE BLADE, SHIFT YOUR WEIGHT BACK AND FORTH ON YOUR FEET. EXACTLY LIKE YOU ARE GRINDING WITH THE MACHINE ON, JUST FASTER. I think one of the reasons this works so well is that you can put a lot of weight on the blade WITHOUT much effort!

When all the scratches are going horizontal it is time to make the "pretty" and all line up. Turn the wheel to clean paper and spray with WD-40. Now start at the plunge and take one smooth pull off the blade. Repeat this on new areas of paper until the finish is nice and even with no "j's".

Let me know how this works for you guys.

Tom
 
OK now I have some fresh ideas and paper. These new steels are not for the faint of heart knife makers. Hey Im not exactly a newbie but Im not afraid to ask advise.

Let me tell ya all what we are up to.

My son Michael and his lovely wife Kristi are adopting a child from Jamaica so Mike and I are working up some knives so he can use the money for that purpose. We have had 60 watercut from CPM 154 CM and heat treated from Paul Bos. The G10 handles are from Chuck Bybee Alpha Knifesupply and will also be water cut. I had the corby handle bolts made for me locally and bought a Tippman Stitcher for the leather sheaths. Ive spared no expenses so far.
These 3 hunting models are my own design gleened from years of input from local hunters. Im convinced they will be terrific knives.

Im just getting advice from my friends here to aid in the hand rubbed finish. I dont care for a satin belt finish although it would be much easier.

Many thanks guys that helped out on this thread. I will be sure to let ya know what works for us.
 
Bruce, Whats the deal with the 60 blades, club knife or something like that? Ever thought about sending them out to be finished? That would be my first choice. Years ago I bought one bar of 440V. At the time I ordered it they were just about out except for one small bar. I had them send me that but was disappointed since I wanted it in a larger piece. After heat treat I tried rubbing it by hand and went to a 80 grit A/O belt. That didn't even seem to make any difference.
 
Raymond Richard said:
Bruce, Whats the deal with the 60 blades, club knife or something like that? Ever thought about sending them out to be finished? That would be my first choice. Years ago I bought one bar of 440V. At the time I ordered it they were just about out except for one small bar. I had them send me that but was disappointed since I wanted it in a larger piece. After heat treat I tried rubbing it by hand and went to a 80 grit A/O belt. That didn't even seem to make any difference.
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Raymond you big Wussy. :D
 
the 10v dagger i made i hand sanded before heat treat what way all i had to do was clean things up after it was hard:)
 
Smart, 10V is even more of a B!TCH!

I hear 15V is close to impossible to play with after HT!

Tom
 
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