S30V carpel tunnel fears

Bruce. I would finish to a pretty fine grit on the grinder, say 800-1200 and then drop back and do my hand rubbed finish in 600grit. That way you dont have to worry about trying to remove scratches just putting them in uniformly.
 
i second that... get good belts whichever you prefer. micron, klingspor etc. then just take it one step higher than the finish you need. then drop back down one grit and hand rub it......

i use a block of micarta with some of that double sided foam tape for carpets... its about 3/32" thick but gives some cushion to help it conform to the hollow.
good luck man
 
Bruce. I would finish to a pretty fine grit on the grinder, say 800-1200 and then drop back and do my hand rubbed finish in 600grit. That way you dont have to worry about trying to remove scratches just putting them in uniformly.
Bill what brand of belts work the best in the finer grits? They dont seem to last long enough for me.
 
Bruce here is what I do...

I usually grind batches of 20-30 blades at a time. Usually in the 3-4" range. All the ceramic (60, 120, and 240 grit) belts are 3M.

I can grind all 20-30 on one 3M ceramic 60 grit belt. This is where I true up my grind lines and take them to very close to where I want to finish up at.

It usually takes 3-4 120grit J flex ceramic belts to do the batch, this is mostly as the sides wear down and I can't shape the plunges. This is where the plunges get lined up and radiused. It is also the time to true up my grind lines.

I next go to 240 grit Ceramic J flex belt. This is ONLY used for scratch refinement. It usually takes 2 for the batch of knives.

The next belt is also ONLY for scratch refinement. I go to an Klingspore 400 grit aluminum oxide belt (unfortunately no one makes a ceramic belt this fine!!). After one blade the belt stops giving a good finish, it starts "smearing" the finish and doesn't remove the scratches too good. I will still use it on 4-5 more blades. I can remove 90% of the scratches and when I go back with a new belt I can usually finish 3-4 of these and then do another 4-5 with the 90% finish. This makes my 400 grit belts go MUCH farther. I have tried the structured abrasives and have never been happy with the results!! It may be that I am not smart enough to use them!!

In addition to the above belts I also get 36 grit belts for rough shaping handles and that is pretty much it.

Tom
 
Seriously.... DAMN!

Tom

Its a good excuse to stop. I shouldnt be working on Sunday anyway. :)

Mike is over here and using your redneck grinder method. It works better than anything else. I still need some fine grits belts though.
 
Bruce I have the best luck with the norax belts from norton. I get them from tru grit, they carry them down to an x5 which translates to about three thousand grit according to John. If I were you I would stop at an x16 and then had rub at 800 grit.
 
Bruce I have the best luck with the norax belts from norton. I get them from tru grit, they carry them down to an x5 which translates to about three thousand grit according to John. If I were you I would stop at an x16 and then had rub at 800 grit.

Thanks Bill, I'll give them a call tomarrow. :thumbup:
 
My son Michael and his lovely wife Kristi are adopting a child from Jamaica so Mike and I are working up some knives so he can use the money for that purpose. We have had 60 watercut from CPM 154 CM and heat treated from Paul Bos. The G10 handles are from Chuck Bybee Alpha Knifesupply and will also be water cut. I had the corby handle bolts made for me locally and bought a Tippman Stitcher for the leather sheaths. Ive spared no expenses so far.
These 3 hunting models are my own design gleened from years of input from local hunters. Im convinced they will be terrific knives.

I have seen and held the three knives bruce is talking about, as well as watching the production of these particular knives. They are all GREAT. I have not yet met a hunter who didn't like the largest of the three. and expect to hear the same of the other two.

I believe that everyone in this forum knows that Bruce is a Class Act, I would like to add that So is Mike. I have known and been good friends with Mike and Kristi for a few years now and The same qualities you know and respect in Bruce are apparent in his kids. Mike is pouring his dreams for his family's Future into these knives, and whoever gets one of the 60 Knives will NOT be dissapointed.
 
I second Bill's vote for the Norax belts. Trizac never worked that well for me; lots of bump and horrible when wet. Norax give a great finish, almost zero bump, and laugh at water.

John
 
I have seen and held the three knives bruce is talking about, as well as watching the production of these particular knives. They are all GREAT. I have not yet met a hunter who didn't like the largest of the three. and expect to hear the same of the other two.

I believe that everyone in this forum knows that Bruce is a Class Act, I would like to add that So is Mike. I have known and been good friends with Mike and Kristi for a few years now and The same qualities you know and respect in Bruce are apparent in his kids. Mike is pouring his dreams for his family's Future into these knives, and whoever gets one of the 60 Knives will NOT be dissapointed.

Larry,
Thanks so much my friend. Yep, I do have nice kids and grandkids too!
 
I also love the Norax belts for this. The key to using the Norax on S30V is very fast belt speed, light pressure, and new belts.

Mike L.
 
I was given some pretty good advice by Harry Matthews of Twin Blades. He told me to get S30V as near finished as possible BEFORE heat treat. I carry them to 600 grit then send them to Paul Bos. When they come back, all I have to do is go back over them with 600, then take them to 1000, then pull my final scratches with 600.

Problem is, its still a bitch hand sanding this stuff PRIOR to heat treat.

Robert
 
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