Another example, I love watches. I own a small collection. Do the details of the different movements interest me? Yes. Do I base which watches I buy on it? No. Could I tell you the movement of every watch i own? No. Some watch people would tell me I'm not a real enthusiast.
I'm a watch collector as well and I know what movement is in each of my watches. I know a little about each movement but not nearly enough to really compare one movement against another. Here I draw a similarity between different steels and different watch movements... most of us are not knowledgeable enough to really draw conclusions of one vs. the other. We might have a general sense of how they compare, but past that point it would take a very good watchmaker or a very good metallurgist to be able to really appreciate the differences between one and another. When I was a mechanic I knew all there was to know about the automotive engines of the day, but now I have lost touch and cannot compare contemporary engines in the same way. I feel the same about steels and watch movements- I can compare them in general terms but I cannot begin to compare them like a watchmaker or metallurgist can, or like I used to be able to do with car engines. But that should be sufficient for us- I'm now a USER in that I WEAR watches and I CARRY knives and cut with them. Knowing that S30V is good and S35V is maybe a little bit better is all that I need to know.
What I was (I think) inventing a word for is this - I've started sharpening all my blades with the mousepad convex method, regardless of whether they started convex or not, but if they're already fairly sharp and only need touching up, I start with 800 grit paper and move on up through 1000, 1500, 2000 and then into Pinnacle film materials...so what I mean by "micro" is that on blades that aren't already convexed only the smallest part of the edge winds up convexed. I hope that makes sense...it is working well for me. Quick and very, very sharp.
Thanks for the reply JNewell. I found a video on YouTube that detail exactly how to do this using the exact same method, and uses the sharpening (or polishing) films as well. I have it bookmarked for the day my Cold Steel Voyager needs to be sharpened.
It's one of the older versions with a high hollow point grind. I don't want to jump on a Sebenza with a new technique. :thumbup:
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