SAK Key ring

Measured low 40’s so I’ll not do that
:(
G2
 
A sandpaper SAK file would not have to be very hard because the “sand” is very hard. A cut SAK file would probably be as hard as a blade so the teeth would not wear out.
 
Well, I had another thought for the nail file on the Cadet. I had my friend check the Rockwell of the awl on my Pioneer, if was in the low 40’s I was going to grind in a chisel edge on one side but the awl measured low 50’s so I’ll have to live with it as is.
G2
 
Perhaps grind the rounded area and tip to a 90 degree angle to increase its ability to scrape? If you use it for outdoor adventures, you could grind one whole edge to 90 degrees to use on ferro rods.
 
I might do something along those lines
Thanks
G2
 
YellowSwiss said:
If you use it for outdoor adventures, you could grind one whole edge to 90 degrees to use on ferro rods.
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I’ve done that on many of my knives, it’s a great mod, very useful if you carry a ferro rod in you edc. I always do that on one side of the nail file on the SAK classics, and often on the spine of fixed blades
 
Exotac was making firesteels with 440-C strikers. The 440-C strikers didn’t cut the mustard, so they switched to Tungsten Carbide. You can differentiate between the old and new strikers with a magnet. The 440-C is slightly attracted, the WC not at all.
 
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Speaking of SAK keychain options, is a Tinker within reason? I have a Black Alox Cadet, and Classic inbound, and a Alox Pioneer as well. I'm thinking of switching the Spyderco Ladybugs on our key chains out. Why? It gives me an excuse to buy more knives! ;)
 
stevekolt said:
Why? It gives me an excuse to buy more knives! ;)
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At least you’re honest about it. I on the other hand, have to make excuses to let myself buy a new knife.

“My S110v PM2 chips too easily, so I need to get an s30v Millie”

“Well I already have two spartans and a climber, but I want a medium size SAK with a corkscrew and a pen so I really need this Compact for my travel bag”
 
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