Sanmei Steel by the piece!

420/52100 for me. I would definitely be interested. W2/52100 would be preferred over 1095 if its all the same.
 
I too am curious if it will be rolled or forged in relation to the pattern? I like the wavy look but it won't be a deal breaker.

To answer your query, I would be interested in thin 52100 or Blue #2 core (1/16" - 3/32") with either cladding. I would prefer a total thickness of 1/8" - 5/32".

Please take into consideration that I am a beginner and not anywhere near to selling the things I'm trying to make. Accordingly my purchases would be limited to small quantities unlike some of the experienced makers here that have given feedback. I certainly do appreciate that you are working to make available very desirable materials that would otherwise be difficult to obtain.
 
Like the others, a Blue/52100 core would be great. Thin core would be desired - 1/16" or less..... total thickness of 1/8".

I really would like side laminates in low carbon like 1006. (Or WI ..... hey, a boy can dream, can't he :) ) These billets will make superb Japanese kitchen knives .
 
PEU said:
Yes, but if you want to harden the high carbon core at datasheet temperatures, 420 would not reach hardening temperatures by at least 200C on most of the listed steels.

I've been told that 420 sides gives far better and nicer transitions to the core than 304.


Pablo
Click to expand...

You are correct - the 420 will not harden when austenizing the core.
But, after reaching forging temperatures and air cooling - that 420 is hard.
420 jacket San Mai must be spherodized after forging to be able to cut it with a band saw.
420 over 1095:


 
You know me....I am IN!!! terested!!!!!! Any combo, Aldo. Very hard for me to choose one. I had a response typed originally, but got to thinking more about it. I think the Blue #2 should remain mono steel, in your store, and offer either a 52100 or W2 san mai (I'm not picky about which cladding). How about some German White steel with 420 (or 304) cladding? :)
 
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Karl B. Andersen said:
You are correct - the 420 will not harden when austenizing the core.
But, after reaching forging temperatures and air cooling - that 420 is hard.
420 jacket San Mai must be spherodized after forging to be able to cut it with a band saw.
420 over 1095:


Click to expand...

Karl,
I love those granular carbon migration bands along the stainless edge.
 
420 over 3V

Total thickness = 0.150-0.190"
core thickness = whatever minimum you need to guarantee a fully centered core.

(ie. I would prefer the transition between steels to be as close to the edge as possible. Or else, why bother with stainless sides?)


If it passes my tests, meets the above, and the price is right, then I would probably be good for ~50 lbs. of the stuff.
 
I haven't played with the Blue yet, but both the Blue and 52100 sound promising to me. 15"x2" is a good size, although occasionally an inch or two longer would be really nice. I definitely would like a final thickness of at least 0.156" for my larger kitchen knives.

The 420 sides that Karl showed look awesome. Does the 304 do similar stuff?
 
I love the idea, Aldo. Very interested in blue/52100 with the 420 with a 1/16 core and 1/8-5/32 width.
 
Here is one sample with 304 and a Blue #2 core. Saturday AM we will be attempting CPM 3-V, CPM M-4, Hitachi Blue #2, 52100 and 1095 cores with both 304 and 420 skins. We will post the results as soon as we have them.
 

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