SC T100's Axe Projects (Pic Heavy)

"The Actual True Temper" Update. While this head is still hung...maybe not poorly, but not my best work, I decided to finally sharpen it. I got a little overzealous with the file and caught the body of the head a little more than I should, and I thinned it quite a bit so it's not actually thinner than the An Ax to Grind gauge, but it had to be done to fix the wonky, offset grind I found it with. It also didn't help the forging isn't the most consistent, and it has high and low spots behind the bit (hence the weird file lines). Overall I'm very pleased, and man this thing took a great edge. We'll see if it holds up once I get to use it some, but the steel seemed great even though it appears to be an 80s-90s later model. It still has a high-ish centerline though, so it should be a great axe regardless. As you can see in the third pic, I left the toe a little steeper so I didn't move it back too much, and it should retain some strength there. The harpening went as follows...files, coarse stone, fine stone, then 300, 400, 600 grit diamond, then stropped. It's hair popping sharp now.

I am in the process of shaping a new handle for it. I found a pretty good curved-haft Ames handle. I'm trying my best to make a copy of my broken Council haft, and it's coming along. I think this head will go on that handle once it's finished.





If I understand correctly, do you basically line up the file with the top of the axe head eye when filing? Essentially making it a scandi so to speak? (Still banana though)
 
Hey SC, nice collection. I'm envious, as you can imagine the flea markets and garage sales in SoCal aren't exactly over flowing with cast off axes and hatchets. I started a little before you and I'm way behind you on my projects. I've got to start making masks every time I finish a blade. Nice work!
 
.....I decided to finally sharpen it. I got a little overzealous with the file and caught the body of the head a little more than I should, and I thinned it quite a bit so it's not actually thinner than the An Ax to Grind gauge, but it had to be done to fix the wonky, offset grind I found it with. It also didn't help the forging isn't the most consistent, and it has high and low spots behind the bit (hence the weird file lines).


I don't worry about that at all. If an axe needs filed it needs filed. High spots in the way need to go. And proper filing is gonna leave marks up on the cheeks more often then knot.

I also think leaving the toe thick was a good idea. They tend to wear first and being a little thicker there is a good idea.

I love the look of a hand honed edge.
 
Not an axe, but interesting project for a family member on my bench. It's a sledge from 1944 (presumably), and I can't find much on the company yet. Anyone know what the other side of the sledge is for? Concrete maybe?


It's a straight peen sledge hammer.
 
If I understand correctly, do you basically line up the file with the top of the axe head eye when filing? Essentially making it a scandi so to speak? (Still banana though)

Pretty much! But hand filing isn't exact so you'll end up with some convex naturally, and I even add a little convex on purpose to make sure the bevel matches the An Ax to Grind gauge. Even with the convex edge, it'll come out banana-ish if the head has any centerline to it.
 
Hey SC, nice collection. I'm envious, as you can imagine the flea markets and garage sales in SoCal aren't exactly over flowing with cast off axes and hatchets. I started a little before you and I'm way behind you on my projects. I've got to start making masks every time I finish a blade. Nice work!

Thanks! Yeah, I bet SoCal has to be a hard place to find heads for sure. I'm actually behind on my masks as well, as I am reluctant to spend a lot on leather, and I have been having a hard time finding remnant bags with scraps big enough...especially for my Jerseys!
 
I don't worry about that at all. If an axe needs filed it needs filed. High spots in the way need to go. And proper filing is gonna leave marks up on the cheeks more often then knot.

I also think leaving the toe thick was a good idea. They tend to wear first and being a little thicker there is a good idea.

I love the look of a hand honed edge.

Thanks S_p, that was sort of my thinking too as I wanted to make sure the bit was thin so it worked best. I think I got the thicker toe idea from one of your posts as well, and it seems like a great idea (especially on a head like this that has some wear on the toe). And I'm with you...Ilike when my edges have the fine swirl marks from the honing. I am sure I could spend more time with each grit, but I love it that way it is now and it's very smooth and should work great.
 
I find pretty good deals on leather sold as "remnants" or "trim pieces" on ebay - if you want finished leather. I like to look for pieces that are actually a square piece, not some odd shaped thing. Bellies are still a pretty good deal for veg tanned unfinished leather.
 
I find pretty good deals on leather sold as "remnants" or "trim pieces" on ebay - if you want finished leather. I like to look for pieces that are actually a square piece, not some odd shaped thing. Bellies are still a pretty good deal for veg tanned unfinished leather.

Good idea...I may look into this. Thanks COTS!
 
I was visiting someone in NoCal a few months ago and they wanted to go to a recycling center. I found a big perfect thick piece of tanned leather there, cheap. I haven't looked in my area for one yet, but it's an idea.
 
I was visiting someone in NoCal a few months ago and they wanted to go to a recycling center. I found a big perfect thick piece of tanned leather there, cheap. I haven't looked in my area for one yet, but it's an idea.

Also a good idea, thanks!
 
for leather, look at Tandy leather online for veg tan leather. They come on sale sometimes. I got a pretty good sized shoulder 6oz for $30 CAD almost a year ago now, I have made 2 machete sheaths, 2 axe sheaths, and have PLENTY lefts for at least 5-6 more axe sheaths.
 
for leather, look at Tandy leather online for veg tan leather. They come on sale sometimes. I got a pretty good sized shoulder 6oz for $30 CAD almost a year ago now, I have made 2 machete sheaths, 2 axe sheaths, and have PLENTY lefts for at least 5-6 more axe sheaths.

Another good one. Looks like i have some searching to do.
 
Well, I have some "lessons-learned" photos. I was re-hanging my axe-eye 6-lb maul the other day. I got it shaped and fitted well, and went to drive the wedge, and this happened.



That is a right-side-half of the top of the wedge, which would have done most of the wedging work at the top of the eye. I've never had this happen before. At this point, I should have stopped, drilled out the wedge, and re-done it. But noooo...I had to be impatient, so I had to keep driving the wedge. Well, that meant the head wasn't going to be as tight as I prefer, so I broke out the metal wedges. Why? Impatience.

So after adding quite a few, and then driving them deeper with a punch to ensure they were seated as afar as possible, I ended up with this...monstrosity.



Don't be like me.

Anyway, I made this look a little better by filling the holes with some sawdust and glue, but the head is definitely tight all the way around now. It'll work...it's a maul. And if it doesn't I'll rehang the thing properly. Again, don't be like me, haha!
 
Oh, and I thought I would post this for fun. On my no-name thin-bit axe, I left the haft protruding too much a while back. It looked funny, so I grabbed it and cut it down. The slice I took off the top is pictured here. This just serves as confirmation that BLO does, in fact, act like a weak adhesive between the wedge and haft. It's obviously not very strong, but there is some bonding effect.

Old top


Cut side
 
. . . This just serves as confirmation that BLO does, in fact, act like a weak adhesive between the wedge and haft. It's obviously not very strong, but there is some bonding effect. . .
drying oil: "An organic oil, such as linseed oil, used as a binder in paints and varnishes. It dries into a tough elastic layer when applied in a thin film and exposed to air."
http://www.thefreedictionary.com/drying+oil

Bob
 
Back
Top