SC T100's Axe Projects (Pic Heavy)

"The Actual True Temper"

I grabbed this one from an estate sale...It has the letter/number stamp, and is verified to be a True Temper based on the partial label. I gave this one a vinegar bath and threw it on a spare handle (the old Kelly handle) for kicks or loan. Turned out ok!



This MAY get re-hung on it's old, replacement haft. It hung really, really high on the handle, and the keft was filled with epoxy. I have since fixed the old handle and re-cut the kerf. It has some damage, but I think I will run it as is for now. For whatever reason, this one was a bear to hang, and the metal wedges bear that out. However, it's quite secure after some light testing, and needs a proper sharpening. You can see where I had to thin the shoudlers quite a bit.


 
"The Kelly"

I also re-hung my original refurb, a very old Kelly. It now looks and feels right, and it's on a perfect Council Tool straight haft. After checking the bevel, it could be thinned a little more in the center, but it's good for now and takes a great edge. Love this axe.



 
And just for the heck of it...my machete handles are finally getting that oil-finished sheen and feel great. They've been used previously, but the feel of the BLO finish as it has built up is perfect for me.

 
SCT100, the Kelly and TT you set up look like honest, real working axes.

I especially like the straight handle on that second one. Thank you for updates:thumbup:
 
"The Kelly"

I also re-hung my original refurb, a very old Kelly. It now looks and feels right, and it's on a perfect Council Tool straight haft. After checking the bevel, it could be thinned a little more in the center, but it's good for now and takes a great edge. Love this axe.
IMG_20160117_140807906_zps8fvftj40.jpg
[/URL]
A fine wedge job! It shows perfectly how the softer poplar conforms to the harder hickory..
 
"The Merit"

Well, I stared at the Merit's original haft for too long. After giving it a few BLO coats, and thinking it over, I pulled the head off the new handle and put it back on the original (I think) haft. It's now back to it's original 1930s (I believe) goodness. It's a gorgeous old haft and feels great. It turned out pretty well, I think! Unfortunately, I couldn't fix the damage on the swell, so the other side has a bit of a chunk missing, but it's not noticeable in use, so it's only an aesthetic issue.


Good call.
 
"The Sears Special"

I was gifted another half hatchet, and when I pulled the Merit's "new" handle, I had a spare, so i threw this on it. I'm not sure it works, but it works for now. It still needs to be sharpened, but it's useful again either way.

And after a new haft.

Good photo showing the temper line in the hammer.
 
Nice! I'd have been cringing on every blow driving the metal wedges, but the results look to me like a good hang.

I did...definitely not my preference, but I felt it was necessary. That TT may go back on it's original handle and I'll chalk the current hang up to experience.
 
SCT100, the Kelly and TT you set up look like honest, real working axes.

I especially like the straight handle on that second one. Thank you for updates:thumbup:

Thanks, and that was my intention...users for sure. The Kelly is an absolutely fantastic splitter for it's size with its very high centerline, and cuts/bucks well too. The TT should make a decent all-purpose axe. The steel in the bit isn't as hard as some, but seems fine.
 
I did...definitely not my preference, but I felt it was necessary. That TT may go back on it's original handle and I'll chalk the current hang up to experience.

I did the same thing with one of my mauls. I felt like it was hung well, but it came loose anyway and now it has a couple metal wedges in it. Eh, sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do.
 
I've been looking for a good way to pick up some firewood for a new fire ring project I have planned. Well, I got the ok to get some wood off a lot that will be cleared soon, so I grabbed the axes and off I went. I brought a chainsaw too, but I really don' like them (noise, safety, gas, etc), though they clearly are the more efficient tool. I mainly wanted some exercise and to quietly spend an afternoon using these tools i like so much. I found out a few interesting things, too!

The spot: I wasn't about to try and fell some monster pines solo and without proper safety equipment. This site is lousy with widowmakers common to planted pine areas. I was there to take down some small stuff or maybe a medium tree.


I used a number of different axes, simply because I wanted to and to learn a bit about each one.

The beautiful Council Tool beveled jersey (I just had to use this one...it's the most comfortable haft I've ever held and it deserved to see some use, even with the risk of breakage):


A Council Dayton 3.5er on a 30" haft (I wanted to see how it handled as it lives in my work vehicle but I've never needed to use it):


My Norlund Cabin Axe on a 28" haft (Just to see how it cuts, and to see how my swell felt in use):


My original Kelly on its new 36" straight haft (I had to use this one based on the high centerlines alone):


My odd-duck 3-lb Plumb double bit on original permabond haft (I've never really used double bits, so this was a good opportunity):


My Plumb 3/2 Jersey (just because):


Good Results!



And unfortunately one really bad result :( My prettiest and most comfortable haft broke. No, it was not my fault (thank goodness), but I was bucking a log, the bit stuck a little as normal, and when I pulled up, there was a cracking noise and the handle came loose. The wedge is fine, the shoulder is fine, but the wood inside the eye broke, and broke badly. I think it must've spent too long dried out and rotting (there was a lot of rust in the eye of this axe). I'm sad, and I knew the risk, but I vowed to use these things as intended. Such is life. It got to fell a tree and buck some logs before giving up the ghost...it's earned its retirement. I will likely rehang the head, and myabe find something good to put on the haft as a wall hanger and use it as a template.



On the flip side, none of my other hangs came loose. They didn't get hours upon hours of work each, but I swung them all hard to see what they had. I have many blisters to prove it.

Impressions:

Everything I had was sharp, and left very clean cuts once I was warmed up.


The Kelly is the most efficient chopper with its high centerline, even if the bit should still be thinned to conform to the Ax to Grind gauge. It held it's edge very well and only needed a little stop when done. It easily removed the most wood per strike, but it wasn't the most comfortable axe to swing (given my not-up-to-snuff skills). That fell to...

The Plumb double bit. Even without the higher centerline, the thin, long, handle and lighter head, along with the assumed balance of the DB mad the Plumb DB a joy to use when bucking. In fact, it's thin profile seemed to help a lot and was excellent as limbing. It bit deep without sticking and I felt I could "whip" this thing with great accuracy. The edge wasn't shaving sharp at the end, but I forgot to check it before I started to compare, though I think it did very well. It bucked very, very well. I will try to use it fell sometime...I was out of energy before I could.

The 30" Dayton CT...This thing cut well, and held its edge great with only stropping needed. I don't feel as comfortable with a 30" length, but it's what fits in the work bin. It needs to be thinned in the bevel, as it wouldn't cut as well at the angle I wanted. This axe needs a much bigger swell, but it's what the haft came with. It's a great all purpose axe, perfect for being a durble, tough, semi-compact, and quality tool.

The broken CT Jersey...Felt like a dream to swing with the big swell. it fell and bucked really well, and the broad edge made quick work of the wood. It held it's edge excellently and only needed a strop. For felling, the 33" length was good, but it felt too short for bucking logs at ground level.

The Norlund...great little cutter! Worked great and held its edge. i would prefer a larger swell for extended use, but as with the 30" dayton, that's all the hafts had...HH needs to leave bugger swells IMHO. But this little thin-cheeked axe is a great little all-arounder.

The Plumb Jersey...The heartwood haft is a bit thick and heavy so it was a little less comfortable to hold for felling, but the head did great and held its edge. It bucked fantastically, too. A beautiful all around axe. I should probably thin the haft, but it's so nice looking and feeling it's hard to want to tear into it. Maybe if I get a 1" belt sander and I can thin it that way I may.


Summary

Overall, these refurbs all did really, really well. I would have tested more, but my hands had some nasty blisters and my shoulders were out of energy after a few straight hours of felling and bucking. Almost all of my heads need to be thinned a little more to match the Ax to Grind profile, but all did really well regardless.

I much prefer 36" hafts to shorter ones with a full-size head. That distance must be ingrained from all those years of splitting as a teenager. I was much more accurate with the 36"-ers, but that may just be due to past experience.

The broken CT felt fantastic...easily the best haft I've ever used.

House Handle needs to leave much larger swells on their hafts, especially for the full-size hafts.

I like DBs much more than I though...so easy to swing with their balance, though I am still a little concerned with safety.

I am much more adept as using my Marble/Imacasa 18 machete on small stuff than using a smaller axe. This is likely due to my many years of machete use over the last 10 years. I'm talking about the 2" and under stuff (cutting, bucking, removing small limbs, etc.)

Once the bevel is thinned and if I were in better shape for this work, I think the Kelly would be the best axe for my personal use.

Just out of curiosity, I'd like to pick up a heavy chopper to compare against my machete on smaller stuff at some point. Something like the Condor Pack Golok or Duku or other similar heavy parang-like chopper. So far, it appears using a big knife for this work would be way less efficient if you have the axes and machetes/choppers at your disposal.

That's all of now...hope you enjoyed it! I ended up with a good bit of firewood, some it sweetgum. I may have to use the maul to split it as it has interlocked grain, but it's for an outdoor fire ring, so it can be odd-sized and busted up.

Last note: I thought of that spoof regarding hand-cut artisanal firewood...it actually would need to be expensive! This was a lot of work. A chainsaw could have done this in about 1/5 of the time if not less. But I don't really like them, and I wanted a workout. Well, I got one. Holy moly am I sore.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for taking the time to snap some pictures and post them up. Man I sure was sorry to see the haft on the CT break. Couldn't agree more about HH needing to leave more material for a swell. I find opting out of no lacquer helps as they dim sand it off. I've sort of figured out a technique to get the most out of what they do leave you, might post a quick to of how I've been going about it. Great to see axes being put to work, mine generally just buck and split whatever I find laying at the curb for use in my fire pit. I'd love an excuse to fell a tree or two.
 
Old Axeman and Hacked,


My pleasure, and thanks! It was a great day in the woods. Happy to do it! I like seeing pics of our axes being put to use. I don't get to fell many trees either as I don't own any forest land, and I'm not about to go chop them down in the nearby national forest (though I can go get a firewood permit and buck fallen timber if I want). I had to snap some pics because I was very happy at some of the plates and chips I was able to blow off the logs with these axes. I was very pleasantly surprised, especially once I figured out the best angles to use.

Hacked, I'm sad about that original CT haft too. You win some, you lose some I guess! It's a handle, they break, you re-haft it and move on. If I really want a copy I have it as a template though it would require a lot of work with my amateur skills. For now I have a brand new CT straight haft in the truck ready to take it's new place in the world. I like having CT handles nearby, especially for my CT head re-hafts...they generally fit well with minimal shaping required, and they tend to be great quality.

And good point about the HH lacquer. I never thought about it, but I always order no lacquer to save a bunch of sanding time on my part. If I knew they would come with significantly larger swells, I might be tempted to keep the lacquer and sand them myself.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for a great post with outstanding pictures. Looks like a fun day in the woods to me.

Thanks and my pleasure! It was a great day in the woods, as they always (at least usually) are!

I'd also like to personally thank you for An Ax to Grind...it really did teach me how to properly re-haft and sharpen an axe. There are some other folks out there with tutorials that seemed highly...suspect...when I was first getting into restorations. I've reviewed, and continue to review, the manual and videos from time to time to make sure I'm on the right path. So, thanks again and I appreciate the effort that must have gone into the project.
 
Last edited:
Glad that it is of some help. The finished manual did not have everything exactly as I wanted because of agency review and over sight. But, I was OK with the finished product. Thanks
 
......and I knew the risk, but I vowed to use these things as intended.

As well you should. That axe needed to be freed of its old haft. It's thanking you right now.


Edit: And BTW, you might want to keep that old haft around to remind you what shape felt so good in your hand.
 
Back
Top