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Scandi blade question

You know, maybe since I dont have any Kepharts and have a good scandi already I should try a Kephart. The Koster does its job well, and has become a favorite already, there is no need for another any time soon. Anyone have an opinion on who to have build me one? I heard Stomper builds a bad a$$ one, anyone else I should look at? That blade style should be added to my bushcraft lineup. I have already been talking to Mark Wohlwend about a scandi, I am sure he could do one up for me, he seems like a hell of a nice guy. I wish Ray Laconico was still taking orders, but I guess even he deserves a break sometimes. Hell, I should just start another thread on this topic.
 
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cuphead said:
very debatable indeed, for me I own a variety of scandis all more expensive then the next, and I was thinking last week-end which were my favorite ones from the gang and the 2 that made the list were the Mora 510 and 10cm wood carver from ragweedforge which siguy also owns.
both knives together cost less then 50$.
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sorry to bring up an older thread, just wondering what brand the 10cm woodcarving knife was?
 
SpookyPistolero said:
D2 and 3V take about six years to sharpen (just not for me) or to put an edge on,
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I only have a couple of knives in D2 I seldomly use and probably no A2 one but I can comment on 3V.

About 3V:

Funny thing, some time ago I would have agreed: the first couple of time I sharpened my Koster I found it insanely difficult to sharpen. Using anything but diamond stone felt futile.
Then I got a Skookum, I was expecting same difficulty to sharpen and to my surprise it actually proved fairly easy to sharpen even with standard waterstones.
And then recently I resharpened the Koster and it proved easier then what I remembered.
I have no idea what made the difference. Possibly some particular superficial surface hardness left from HT??? Or me getting used to it???
Anyway it felt OK to sharpen and even polished correctly on unloaded leather strop.
Agreed I haven't had any major chipping to repair.
I had the Skookum roll quite significanly after an afternoon whittling seasoned beech and I had the Koster's very tip snap after some stupid stunt.
In both cases I was somewhat underwhelmed about how the "super steel" performed (although about the beech whittling, form my experience I've seen several moras (micro) chip in similar situation) but on the other hand I was pleasantly surprised by how easy I got able to restore the edge in both cases.
 
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Those fancy modern powder steels... :D
Jukka Hankala's handforged Silversteel still shaves after skinning and cutting (no bone hacking !) 3 wild boars and a one of local spieces of small deer - all in all around 800 lbs of meat + muddy,sandy skin - the thing is AWSOME !!!
 
dbltap45acp said:
I know most will say the Mora because of cost.
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One thing I'd like to add about Mora.
Sure being inexpensive and easily available in quantities is important but the knife also has its own merits.

Mora have qualities not so common in other (user grade) knives notably:
* thin blade
* light weight

Those features are unusual for some reasons I can guess.
Psychologically it is hard to justify a high price for something that feels so light and tiny.
It is difficult for customers to "bet" a lot of money on a knife that looks so fragile.
For the same reason makers may fear customers damage thin knives so they'll make them beefier to reduce returns and avoid damages that could give them a (deserved or not) bad rep.

Agreed most scandinavian custom maker do light weight thin bladed knives, but it is funny within the "bushcraft craze" not many makers dared to go below 3mm thickness.
 
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Can't agree more about the thin blade of moras. Quicker to sharpen and more versatile for non-woodworking applications. I don't need/want a thicker knife, I carry an axe.
 
I've had customs and productions. Right now I have Moras, and a Brian Andrews bushcrafter. At one time, I had a Charles May. Lots of Kellams and Helles. I don't dislike scandis, but they are just not for me. I would go with a traditional Helle and call it a day.
 
I think the 3V of the Koster is some of the best steel for a scandi because of the resistance to chipping. Like was said though the very fine point on the Koster- which is something I think is very nice about the knife- is more prone to breaking if you aren't careful.

With any fine edge or point you are going to have the thing being more fragile. However I personally think it easier to make a scandi edge less prone to breaking than to make a thick edge more able to cut deep.
 
hollowdweller said:
Like was said though the very fine point on the Koster- which is something I think is very nice about the knife- is more prone to breaking if you aren't careful.
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Agreed.
Just to make things clear, although not perfect, I'm very satisfied with the overall performance of both the Skookum and the Koster and they are among the best knives I've used.
I broke the tip (accidentally) hitting a rock with a forceful blow, and only the very tip (less than half millimeter) snapped and I was able to restore a tip within minutes.
The steel for both is very good and perfectly adequate,... but as not insanely good as sometimes advertised (NOT by concerned makers).
 
ZombaiO said:
Those fancy modern powder steels... :D
Jukka Hankala's handforged Silversteel still shaves after skinning and cutting (no bone hacking !) 3 wild boars and a one of local spieces of small deer - all in all around 800 lbs of meat + muddy,sandy skin - the thing is AWSOME !!!
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Don't tease us....show us pics. :D
 
BlackHills said:
Don't tease us....show us pics. :D
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+1 on this ZombaiO! We need to see that Tommi asap :)

Jukka Hankala is without a question one of the best puukko smiths alive today. His Tommi's are highly respected among Finnish puukko enthusiasts. I would buy one if I only could afford it :o
 
BlackHills said:
Don't tease us....show us pics. :D
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CIMG3208.jpg

CIMG3052.jpg


Jukka Hankala's puukko's are superb. While I have many fine knives, this is easily my favorite. Rather than go on about how great it is, I'd rather say that with virtually every knife I've found something I wish was slightly different, only thing about the Hankala puukko i'd have changed is the fact that it's micro beveled, or was before I sharpened it :D.

Immaculate fit/finish, and comes with fantastic leather sheath with a wood liner. The sheath is so well made, the knife slides in easy and "clicks" into place, and you can feel a bit of vacuum pressure holding it in when you draw it out.
 
I'm a big fan of scandi's. Helle's are wicked, I was missing the one I had (harding) but had to sell it. Missing it so much, I decided to try a scandi grind and make one myself. I have been super impressed with it, destroys wood and zips through steak like butter. It's a bit glammed up, but I wanted it to be somewhat fancy. It has a very long handle so the stag doesn't interfere with a solid grip.

scandi2.jpg


scandi4.jpg
 
IH8U said:
I'm a big fan of scandi's. Helle's are wicked, I was missing the one I had (harding) but had to sell it. Missing it so much, I decided to try a scandi grind and make one myself. I have been super impressed with it, destroys wood and zips through steak like butter. It's a bit glammed up, but I wanted it to be somewhat fancy. It has a very long handle so the stag doesn't interfere with a solid grip.

scandi2.jpg


scandi4.jpg
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That's really cool.:thumbup:
 
Here's my feeble attempt. The Lauri Progressive Tempered blade is near as hard as the 3v stuff actually.
lauri.jpg


Since the lauri blade is narrower than the handle I was sort of at a loss.

Do I put the spine even with the back of the handle and make the edge far away from the handle? Do I put it in the middle? Ended up making the edge close to the bottom of the handle.
lauri3.jpg
 
Thanks Hollow and Ramm9.

Hollow yours is rockin too, looks wickedly comfy and I ran into that same issue with the blade being more narrow than the bolster. That is the only thing that bothers me on my scandi. I figure after I do a few more of them, I'll figure out a better way to make that junction. My next one will have a handle a bit more like yours.

Ramm9 - That is my possibles bag, my uncle made it for me. He made it inline with the Canadian frontier times. It's so nice looking that I use it often as a photo backdrop. When I get my mountain man set up all put together I'll get some more detailed pics. The bag is pretty big and I'm having issues finding some period correct items to put into it.
 
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