Scandi grind but *Edit* Shoulder getting scratched

Kbrasmodeler said:
B BJ587
It looks to me like your scandi grind is slightly hollow. It was possibly ground in with a wheel, leaving it concave. So, what happens is you are grinding the edge, and the shoulder, and not in between, because your stones are flat. This will continue until the whole bevel is flat. It shouldn't be a problem, but if you don't like the way it looks, keep grinding until the whole bevel looks the same.
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I was just gonna write this. Also, if you want to get rid of the scratches, you should strop the knife.
 
midnight flyer said:
Sharpening by hand with no guides is a skill, no doubt about it. But... once you "get it", no blade is safe! None will be too large or too small, you will scoff at heavily recurved blades, and you will discover you can sharpen confidently on all kinds of different materials.

About 40 years ago I was working for a company that built fast food restaurants. I charged many a beer for putting edges on knives using sandpaper! Think about it; start with 180 grit, move to 220gr, then 320, then 600. That did it for most. But for hunting knives I would finish with 1000gr wet,/dry paper that put a shaving edge on some of the knives. (1000gr meant extra suds...!)

Take the knives you have get to work on it. Some folks get the hang of hand sharpening pretty easily but most won't put the time in yo develop the skill. Good luck!

Robert
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Agreed. Plus once you know how to free hand sharpen you can be well equipped to sharpen anywhere since the only equipment you need is a small pocket stone and your own hands. You might not end up with Instagram bragging rights type mirror polished edges, but your knife will be sharp even when you're away from home and your guided sharpening system.
 
Just remember free hand sharpening--your angle will very sightly with each stroke. No big deal. Sharpen it up and use it. Any knife that is used is going to get some scratches no mater what.
 
hexenjager said:
It would, but on a scandi grind you probably don't want it to. It's a single bevel all the way from the flat to the edge, like a disposable utility knife blade. If you keep removing material from the edge but not the shoulder, over time the geometry gets less and less acute and it gets less "slicey", plus once you put a secondary bevel on a scandi grind, it really becomes a saber grind. Not that that's necessarily a bad thing unless you're going with the scandi because the wide edge grind makes it easier to hold the correct angle on the stone as it sounds like is the case with the op.
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thanx for the education .
 
Kbrasmodeler said:
B BJ587
It looks to me like your scandi grind is slightly hollow. It was possibly ground in with a wheel, leaving it concave. So, what happens is you are grinding the edge, and the shoulder, and not in between, because your stones are flat. This will continue until the whole bevel is flat. It shouldn't be a problem, but if you don't like the way it looks, keep grinding until the whole bevel looks the same.
Click to expand...
I agree. Looks like a hollow ground scandi.--KV
 
Looking at the pics it’s definitely hollow ground. My mora’s look just like that. If it’s a collector piece then I don’t know what to tell you but I’d just keep sharpening it the way you’re doing. Knives that see work are always gonna be scratched up knives. There’s no way around it really.
 
I think quite simply you are either rocking the sharpening stone and not maintaining a flat angle, or quite possibly that knife was made Scandi style, but with a wheel rather than a flat belt grind thus giving it a slightly Saber (or concave) grind.
Either of those would explain what i am seeing in your picture.

Edited: ah ... i see now others have responded about the possibility of a saber grind as well.
 
This post is five months old and the kid hasn't logged on since the day he posted...

I love that you have been here eleven years and you decided to grace this thread with one of your highly guarded, 65 posts, lol! :D :p
(I don't mean this negatively whatsoever)
 
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