Scandi, just how good are they?

Performance can be measured, but when you are measuring that performance through use it is still largely subjective. The skill of the user will change that performance as well as personal preferences, and that leads to bias. There are very few scientific measures of knife shape performance and I haven't seen those discussed here. Cliff has tested a lot of knives but his tests are biased like anyone else's. He is making comments about the inferiority of a style of blade that was developed over centuries by people that lived, 24/7, in a harsh environment. That is his opinion, but many thousands of people that thrived in a harsh environment with these knives would disagree.

Better is a matter of performance, but also preference, fashion, and opinion. I am not trying to advocate the Scandinavian grind over all others. Rather I'm trying to point out that it is as capable and useful as other styles for outdoor living, depending on personal preference.

kel aa,
I apologize if my last post seemed flippant. That wasn't my intention.
 
The knife will only be for me, I can test it and get a feeling, its all one can do in any endevour. Yes, there are hard numbers about pressure but there is also a 'feel' to the way something cuts. I have been around knives for 30 years and I know what I like. Lots of other people have as much experience, I dare say there will be groupings of opinion that give a rough guide at least.

Anyway, I'm sold on the idea of trying one.

Watch this space! :)
 
No need to apologize. I felt that some may have felt that Scandi grinds were being trashed here and getting a little too defensive.

Mr Paul Davidson, I think we've said everything that needs to be said and don't see how we can convince the other. The Scandi has my wonder and admiration as a tool and symbol of an [or many] enduring people.
 
Cliff has tested a lot of knives but his tests are biased like anyone else's. He is making comments about the inferiority of a style of blade that was developed over centuries by people that lived, 24/7, in a harsh environment. That is his opinion, but many thousands of people that thrived in a harsh environment with these knives would disagree.

He seems mostly biased towards the one_knife concept. He also seems to be testing things that a std pukko never was intended to do. That is the cultural "thing", one does not try to use it for something it is not :D (usually the learning cycle includes some broken blades).

At least in Finland there is no such thing as one "scandi" grind, full flat isn't actually used very often, there are various variations acording to the need. Secondary bevel is used often and I prefer the slightly convex version (of either one).

Wheather it is best for it's intended use is a dumb subject for any discussion, it just is the result of a lot of history, same things can be done by a lot of different knives. So what?

TLM
 
Search for "the best" often results in a waste of time and money. That nitpicking thing intensely bore me. Now I'm looking for "what works" and spend my time on more interesting subjects.

Mora works well, or at least well enough for me. They cost ten dollar each. I don't ask for more.
 
Pray tell, what would those more interesting subjects be?

Thank you for the input, I will print it out and file it in the appropriate recepticle.
 
I've noticed on the Mora SWAK's that I loan to my students that the edges will slightly ripple under impacts with hard woods. I've seen this when splitting bamboo and when stripping off the leaves from dry palm branches.

Usually the ripples will repair well after a few minutes on the diamond stone. To avoid this I just have then do such abusive tasks with the machete.

Stripping palm branches won't hurt the knife if you take your time and don't try to sweep the knife down the side of the branch like a machete, no impact no ripple. Mac
 
Pict... not much bamboo in Scandinavia eh? ;)

Here in the Boreal Forest I am very impressed with what a Mora can do for me and it's light enough to hang around the neck with an attached metal match. Now I am set for a survival episode and can make fire and shelter with my kit.

In the Spruce forest I hang out in there is plentiful tinder even on the wettest of days if you know were to look and I have never needed to split logs for dry wood though the Mora can do it. I go out every weekend with my kids and we make a fire in all conditions, wind rain or snow. I have a plastic bag in my coat were I gather natural tinder. In the 5-10 minute walk to our fire place I can pick enough dead spruce branches, birch bark, fatwood, or the inner bark of black poplar to set even wet sticks ablaze.

Seems to me a lot of the "tests" we see are stressing a knife for fantasy conditions that don't actually mean much. If a thin sharp yet tough slicer is the choice of survival experts like Kochanski, Cody Linden or countless Sami that is a pretty good sign. Watch Kochanski effortlessly make tools, split logs, carve faces, gather tinder, cut down a 4" spruce and make shelter makes one realize that technique is far more important than buying the most expensive tool. You learn this technique using a utilitarian and inexpensive Mora that you can stress, abuse and even lose without much complaint. Once you have the technique you come to appreciate the abilities of the cheap little blade.

Kochanski carries around 2000.00 worth of knives...mostly gifts in a black tool bag. He uses these knives to illustrate blade choices...he reaches for a $8.00 plastic handled Mora when he is done his knife talk and is ready to demonstrate use. The 400.00 custom job remains in the bag.

1) The 65 year old Kochanski experimenting with the fire starting abilities of ground birch fungus.
Note the red handled knife.
386254.JPG


2) Some of the blades from Kochanski's knife bag. The expensive woodslore type knife was made for him as a gift from one of his English students. Mor's is very polite but I had the impression that he thought the darn thing was too thick.
386253.JPG


Point is that the Mora might not be the toughest, or the strongest but if you concentrate on learning technique and skill it may be one of the best tools you will ever buy or make.
 
It's been said several times by Scandinavian makers, and said here by TLM, that there is no single pattern for knives used in Scandinavia -- for a long time - for the same tasks - by satisfied users.

Over the decades, the bushcraft experts de jour have favored knives of widely differing sorts (or said they did) -- and done very well with them (or said they did).

Try whatever you wish to try for the tasks you need to perform (We do not all operate in boreal forest.). The author of this thread is going to do just that. :thumbup: Stick with what works best for you on those tasks.

Don't tell the gent who's happy with his tool that he's nuts -- on the basis of experience OR authority, and he's more likely to listen to your differing opinions and facts. Sarcasm, personal attacks, and fighting words do not convince anyone of anything they did not already believe.


As for my little corner of existence, where I really NEED a tool to work is miles from the nearest road -- like needing to start a fire to help with hypothermic kids this weekend in PA (43 F/4 C, 30 mph wind and raining hard). Will I backpack Mr. K's "bag" of tools? Not hardly. Some prying speeds the process if the knife is up to it. My North Star is up to it with hardwood -- within reason. My MORA 2000? I would not have wanted to try, much as I respect that knife as a slicer (factory micro bevel and all). Just too thin. The two Trond Petersen knives I just "stole" on eBay? Don't know. 5/32" and seeming pretty hard (slightly hollow ground with micro-bevel), I'm not sure they are up to much prying. (Now feather sticks - WOW!)

98.6 is a great book - my favorite, but Cody says SS blades are harder to sharpen than a "carbon steel" blade, and that gross over-generalization makes him seem information-challenged. (And he sure could have been clearer on what he meant by wide bevels being desireable. I think that makes him a so-called "Scandi Grind" convert, but the average reader won't have a clue.)
 
Thomas Linton said:
Try whatever you wish to try for the tasks you need to perform (We do not all operate in boreal forest.). The author of this thread is going to do just that. :thumbup: Stick with what works best for you on those tasks.

Don't tell the gent who's happy with his tool that he's nuts -- on the basis of experience OR authority, and he's more likely to listen to your differing opinions and facts. Sarcasm, personal attacks, and fighting words do not convince anyone of anything they did not already believe.

I couldn't agree more with a above statement. Use/try what you feel is good for you and your environment. I happen to like the "British Bushcraft" "Scandi grind" or whatever you want to call them. I like the fact that they carry almost the full width of the blade to the point. I should mention that I convex a secondary edge on all my Moras. IMHO they work very well. Here are links to 2 of my favorites!

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d78/tmrandall/1-16-2006005.jpg

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d78/tmrandall/MyKnifePics059.jpg
 
Some decent discussion here, *Excellent

As for cost, isnt Mors a Scotsman? ;) J/K

To me, my things must apeal to me on a viceral level, and this is why I go for handmade stuff to my spec, not for bragging rights or anything else.

*Must be said with a Mr. Burns voice.
 
tarmix101 said:
. . .
I happen to like the "British Bushcraft" "Scandi grind" or whatever you want to call them. I like the fact that they carry almost the full width of the blade to the point. ...

By "width" do you mean the distance spine to edge or what might be called "thickness"?
 
"As for cost, isnt Mors a Scotsman?"

Hey, I resemble that!

MAC

(actually I'm only half Scotch, the rest is water)
 
Yup...Mors be Frugal.... I think Kochanski is an Outer Hebrides name...way, way Outer Hebrides.
 
Thomas Linton said:
By "width" do you mean the distance spine to edge or what might be called "thickness"?

Yes.... that is what I was trying to point out. With the amount of extra metal on some models it makes for a stronger knife when twisting. For instance, when I baton the blade in some hard wood to split for kindling, I can twist the blade to pry the piece off. I'm no where near as nervous doing this as I would be using my Dozier K2. Did I explain that right:o ;) :D
 
Yes, my two Petersen blades are full thickness to within 1/8" (3mm) of the point. I have tried drilling holes with them, and they work well. They were done up with generous handles as well.
 
Temper said:
Exactly. I have tested a Hollow grind, full flat utility and a full convex, all with similar stock and blade sizes and the full convex in my experience out cut them all.

What were the respective edge geometries? In general, those grinding convex blades tend to leave the edges far more acute, it isn't uncommon to have them be 8/12, and they sweep back fast into the primary of 3/5. In constrast most flat ground knives have edges at 15/20 and the primary grind leaves the edge much thicker, again not by some forces property of the grind, just a choice of the maker. Wilson for example grinds his flat ground blades to edges 0.005" thick and very acute, no problems with cutting ability there.

pict said:
I've noticed on the Mora SWAK's that I loan to my students that the edges will slightly ripple under impacts with hard woods.

The initial bevel on those knives is usually hollow ground, I have measured the edge at 1-2 mm back to be ground to 5 degrees and under per side, plus the hollow nature means it tends to focus lateral loads and induce twisting. Just grind the bevel off flat, it takes about 5-10 minutes with a really coarse stone on a small knife.

Paul Davidson said:
The skill of the user will change that performance as well as personal preferences, and that leads to bias.

No, bias can't be concluded so trivially, if this was the case for example you would call every experimental paper every published biased. All experimental data is always subject to user influence, in high school you are taught "ideal" principles and abstracts such as everyone should be able to repeat an experiment and get the same results if done "scientifically". In reality this means making statistical arguements and they are nontrivial because the user does always influence the results and same actually means something like "low probability of signficant statistical difference", and even then there are user choices in what the tolerance is for low and significant. However none of this means you simply throw up your hands and say everything is just opinion and it is all subjective. Well you can, but you don't have to, Mike Swaim and Joe Talmadge didn't and they had a massive influence because of it, as did countless other people like Alvin Johnston, Phil Wilson, Wayne Goddard, etc. .

Better is a matter of performance, but also preference, fashion, and opinion.

If you want to discuss aesthetics then that is all personal opinion, but performance isn't. Yes it will be influenced by personal characteristics and skill, but these won't have the types of influences which would favor that grind. It isn't a subjective issue, and isn't even a complicated one. Consider a 1/8" scandinavian blade with a typical 10 degree bevel on a one inch wide stock to a 3/16" fully flat ground blade on the same stock.

The flat ground blade is far stiffer and stronger, is actually lighter, and the edge is actually thinner and more acute up until you are way past halfway on the blade. Thus it cuts better, the edge is more durable, the blade is more capable of prying, it is lighter in hand and to carry, and sharpens far easier. None of this is subjective, they are all basic facts of mechanical principles and if you removed them from the hype of the scandinavian bevel and discussed them in general they would not be debated.

The single bevel has one advantage, it is cheaper to make. It is inferior in all other aspects. Even if you do for some reason actually like the wide bevels, for sharpening as is often noted for example, you can keep this and increase the perforamnce signfiicantly by using hollow relief grinds such as used by the Japanese to evolve the design, another culture of knife users, of which there are many.

-Cliff
 
I knew, KNEW, that would be your reply Stamp. I'm not going to argue with you, it's like spitting on a housefire.

BTW the people you named as experts, are. You are not even close to being in their class.

Don't bother to reply to this, I will ignore you as I have for quite some time.
 
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