School me on W's please.

It'll mostly straighten and fatten the lines where you press the ladder pattern in, since you're upsetting the steel more in those portions, because the pattern is reasonably uniform thru the cross-section of the bar after it's been flopped.



Edit: shoulda done reply with quote, this is response to the last question about laddering an already flopped W.
 
javand said:
It'll mostly straighten and fatten the lines where you press the ladder pattern in, since you're upsetting the steel more in those portions, because the pattern is reasonably uniform thru the cross-section of the bar after it's been flopped.



Edit: shoulda done reply with quote, this is response to the last question about laddering an already flopped W.
Click to expand...

OK, I gotcha. Yea I started thinkin a bit more after I posted that question and realized that you wouln't be exposing any different layers by cutting into the "end grain" pattern. So it would just stretch the W's out in the cut (laddered) areas after being drawn out.. like this right? vv~VV~vv~VV ....with these "~" things being the cut and drawn out sections... or something like that lol .... OK moving on! :D

~Paul
My YT Channel Lsubslimed
 
Here's some laddered w's, cut in, a bit coarser than Nick's excellent example.

DSC04703.JPG


And here's some 4-bar twisted w's/explosion pattern. I want to try this again soon super bad, now that my press is operational. I was doing w's before on the power hammer only.

DSC03541.JPG


Here's what happens when you make 2-bar twisted w's and hollow grind super deep with a 2" wheel:

DSC05224.JPG


And here are some really coarse laddered w's I did... lots of batman-looking stuff in there.

DSC03427.JPG
 
When you tile, the pattern goes all the way thought, so it might not so much. The advantage of the Ferry flip is that you don't have to worry about wha it will look like when you grind into it because you already know.
coldsteelburns said:
I'm curious, what would it look like if you tiled the W's and then laddered the billet? :confused: Or rather, has anybody here done this or have a picture of this? It really does make your head boggle when trying to think in "4-D" with at these possible patterns!

~Paul
My YT Channel Lsubslimed
Click to expand...
 
Salem,
With that 2 bar twisted dagger blade I am assuming you welded 2 bars together and then twisted them?
Awesome pattern:thumbup: And that low layer laddered kitchen knife is really cool too.
Darcy:)
 
Darcy, I made a bar of w's, cut it into two shorter pieces of equal length, twisted one right and one left, squared and ground, forge welded together, shaped into blade. At that point it was a light 1/2" thick, I ground about an eighth off each side of the billet to get down into the pattern, then double hollow with 2" wheel. I didn't expect that snaking crazy stuff down the grind line!

I think the steel was a 36+ layer billet, flipped 90, and 16 layers of w's. It's been a while since that dagger.
 
Thanks Salem.......I couldn't see the weld zone between the 2 bars......still can't. Are they welded side by side or am I looking at one bar in that pic? That's a mind boggling beauty of a blade:thumbup:
Darcy:)
 
Damn Salem, those are sick! Especially that "multi-bar explosion twist pattern integral".. (that's a mouth full :foot: ) It looks flawless, like it's made of a single bar the way each bar flows with the next. I also really like the look of that "bold batman blade" :D I'm gonna check your YT channel again to see if you recorded that one, seems like it would be pretty cool to see "live." Those mortised tang handles always really appeal to me for some reason too.

~Paul
My YT Channel Lsubslimed
 
Thanks guys! Darcy, they are side by side bars, the way the pattern mated right down the grind line makes them look completely intertwined.
Paul, there is a vid of that knife on my Youtube channel... check it out!

In other news, I built a new table slot inlay bar (? nomenclature) for my newly acquired 20" Powermatic vertical saw, and built it a new upper guide bar clamp. Everything on it functions very well now. It cuts mild steel so smooth and nice. Added a TPDP switch for it into my VFD switch bank, machine #6 on the array.

Now I'm off to draw the spine temper on a little blackwood/mascus hunter I'm building.

I'll post pics of the new shop setup with new machines soon, kinda torn as I want to maybe wait until I actually get my 8x24 surface grinder in to do a shop tour vid/pics.
 
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