Sebenza 21 work performance.. opinions?

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ericnpeterson

Joined
Nov 18, 2013
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First: This is an honest question, it isn't a thread to dump on knives.
I've had a Sebenza now for a month and I'm having a hard time warming up to it... I like it less and less each time I use it. My expectations were reasonable, I wasn't expecting a light-saber or the ultimate pry-bar... I was expecting a top line WORK knife. I've done all the reading prior to purchasing... but SO MUCH online is about "Well... when you HOLD a Sebenza in your hands..." or threads about the "bank-vault lock-up" and endless opening and closing to hear the "click." Yet so little online are opinions about it actually PERFORMING. In addition to my Sebenza, I've acquired an Endura 4, and a Griptilian 551-1... these knives are UNREAL as workers, top-notch performers in EVERY way. I own 5 Spyderco's and all of them are unbelievable work knives. I know all about the Reeve "heat treatment" etc... but it's getting very disappointing that a knife which literally means WORK doesn't really do it all that well for all the praise out there for it. In my opinion the Sebenza 21 is good for very light work, but the edge doesn't hold up for much more. I use my knives every day and all day... I cut through piles of cardboard, pallet straps, plastic, wood... as well as prepping my lunch. My Griptilain and certainly my Spydies hold up and more. I'm bummed because I was really excited when I bought my Sebenza at the recent Bladeshow.. I guess I was expecting it to live up to the hype. Again, this isn't a gripe session, I'm looking for honest opinions. How do you feel the Sebenza 21 holds up as a working performance knife?
 
What "work" didn't it do that the others did better?
 
That's interesting..Mine cut a myriad of things; for my users. I don't baby them, but I don't abuse them either..the sharpenings are rare with stroping to bring back the edge.
 
bhyde said:
That's interesting..Mine cut a myriad of things; for my users. I don't baby them, but I don't abuse them either..the sharpenings are rare with stroping to bring back the edge.
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I get that with my Spydies and Benchmade... but the Sebenza I have to sharpen a few times throughout my workday... sometimes I have to really WORK it, where other knives are easier on the task at hand.
 
Was this purchase new or used? If used, was the factory edge there or ?.
If new, was it purchased from an authorized dealer or elsewhere? Just trying to get an idea of what is going on so we have to start at the beginning.
What do you use it for that seems to be dulling the edge so quickly?
 
bhyde said:
Was this purchase new or used? If used, was the factory edge there or ?.
If new, was it purchased from an authorized dealer or elsewhere? Just trying to get an idea of what is going on so we have to start at the beginning.
What do you use it for that seems to be dulling the edge so quickly?
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Got it at the Bladeshow from the Chris Reeve booth. I use it for everyday use... cardboard, wood, pallet straps and food prep. It takes an edge, just won't hold it. I've read that it's do to Reeve soft heat treatment.
 
ericnpeterson said:
Got it at the Bladeshow from the Chris Reeve booth. I use it for everyday use... cardboard, wood, pallet straps and food prep. It takes an edge, just won't hold it. I've read that it's do to Reeve soft heat treatment.
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59-60 isn't exactly soft, but I know where you are coming from. The goal with these knives is that it's easier to put an edge on for the end user rather than to have a knife that takes a lot of work. Other makers may run their steel a point or two higher, but for normal users, the difference should be negligible with the exception of putting a working edge back on.
 
It *might* also be due to the slightly convexed edge bevels that CRK puts on their blades.

I use my large Insingo and lately my small Inkosi at work and have had no problems with edge holding. Just for normal cutting chores...breaking down cardboard boxes, cutting plastic strapping, opening packages, etc. And sometimes around the yard (for that I mostly use the Insingo). I do feel that if CRK would put standard (non-convexed) bevels on their edges, they would have more 'bite' out of the box, and they *might* even hold their edges a bit longer. Although again, I really haven't had much issue with the edge-holding for what I do, and they are easy enough to restore.

Jim
 
I use my Sebenza for work and similiar tasks as you've stated. I"ve never had any problem getting through a days work ... I always touch up whatever knife I use through the day in the evening when I'm home so I never let them get too dulled.
I do have some knives that will hold an edge longer then my Sebenzas but I think it's the steel type and then the heat treat ....CRK keeps their heat treats a bit softer for ease of sharpening which for several is a big point. It may be you're just use to a harder blade that holds an edge a bit longer but I've never felt like my Sebenzas weren't enough for work.
And everyones different Sebenzas arent for everyone ... I have a friend I gifted one and he never warmed up to it ... just wasn't his style so I took it back and gave him a ZT 566 in Elmax ... he loves it but I have to sharpen it for him because he can't get it sharp like he could the Sebenza.
So I guess it's a trade off and personal preference.
 
When the edge dulls, what kind of edge are you putting back on and how?
 
Mo2 said:
When the edge dulls, what kind of edge are you putting back on and how?
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Hand-sharpening on Smith Diamond stones work best... I got a Spyderco Sharpmaker as Reeve suggests, and I get the worst edge on that. Lansky fixed edge does alright, but hand-sharpening works best on my Seb.
 
What grit are you finishing at? I'm also surprised the sharp maker doesn't work well for you.

Are you using a stop and compound? If not you should.
 
S35VN in CRK is a compromise of edge retention, ease of sharpening and rust resistance. For many people, including me, it's a good formula for EDC. If your work require edge retention more than anything else, check out some knives made of zdp-189, m4 also m390 is very good for EDC and a bit easier to maintain than zdp and m4
 
I think the CRKs are fair knives for work, but definitely far from the best. I think most of it is I just can't bring myself to use my Sebenza to scrape or pry or do anything too rough with it. I'm sure it could handle it, I just have a problem with it.

A great work knife is the Spyderco Gayle Bradley.
 
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EricNPeterson, I do a lot of heavy use with my large seb 21 and it with no question holds an edge and does so very well... I just finished a job requiring me to open up 80 boxes IFBs... the residual will dull the hell out of any blade but my seb 21 will still cut flesh if I am not careful.. I have spyderco natives too and there is no comparison between the two... the spydi is a toy in comparison

send the knife to me and I will sharpen it up and send it back to you.... You pay shipping both ways.... I use the Wicked Edge... I used to use a sharp maker but now you couldn't give me one
 
from the knives I have are my CRK Inkosi and 21 along with my Delica (for light
Use) , ZT0350 and ZT0630
Lot of others perform well but I have nothing to complain about the CRK
 
makak said:
S35VN in CRK is a compromise of edge retention, ease of sharpening and rust resistance. For many people, including me, it's a good formula for EDC. If your work require edge retention more than anything else, check out some knives made of zdp-189, m4 also m390 is very good for EDC and a bit easier to maintain than zdp and m4
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Being I Spyderco fan, I love S30V and Vg-10 steel... those sharpen easy and hold an edge for sure.
 
Lapedog said:
I think the CRKs are fair knives for work, but definitely far from the best. I think most of it is I just can't bring myself to use my Sebenza to scrape or pry or do anything too rough with it. I'm sure it could handle it, I just have a problem withe

A great work knife is the Spyderco Gayle Bradley.
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I don't scrape or pry with mine either... just cut with it.
 
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