Serial numbers: useful, or not?

Well, I guess we're all over the board here. :D Here's one thing I think we can all agree on: Whatever is done, it should be done WELL. ;) One thing's for sure, I'm not taking five knives with crooked stampings to Atlanta to get rejected by the judges. :eek:

I guess I'm inclined to skip the numbers altogether. Loose stamps are no good, and making a new etching template for each knife would be a real pain.
 
dcv69 said:
I like the way you number your knives, it's quite unique in fact, being out of line a bit shows just how handmade the knife is..... plus after 1234 knives do you really think you ought to change this method just because of a comment on a internet forum... you've been happy with it until now?
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Actually, the thought had been bouncing around in my head for awhile "this really doesn't add much to the looks of this knife...".

B&B just got me to thinking seriously about it.

BTW, I started the numbering at 1000, so I've only made 230+ knives. I don't know why I did it that way, other than someone suggested it, and it sounded good at the time. :confused: Just seems to create confusion though.
 
Can you set up a false guard that would allow you to place the stamp against it to strike so that all stamps start from the same level. OR even make a jig that is placed as a guard that holds 4 stamps in place so that they are struck in sequence?? Just talking out of my behind as I like the stamp idea, and think it is worth thinking outside of the box for. Perhaps a brass/bronze holder/guard so it will not scratch the steel?
Just throwing some things around- you guys are the pro's!!
 
The crooked serial numbers don't bother me.

Once you get past Loveless, Lovett and Chappel electroscriber serial numbers, anything that looks clean and crisp is a welcome relief.:D

It would be neither a deal maker nor breaker for me, but I DO love the idea that there could be a complete record of the knife details in the maker's records.

Got a Mayo piece from a dealer at Pasadena Knife Expo...send Tom a pic...and we had to go back and forth for 1/2 hour in order to determine what YEAR he made the knife(2005) and was very frustrating....luckily he uses Devin Thomas damascus, so it is easy to tell what the steel is. Have gone through the same agony with Carson, Polkowski and Terzuola, as a few examples.....serial numbers are good, imo, but they don't have to be super prominent. Especially with forged blade makers who use a LOT of different steels, and Phillip is one of these;), SOME mark or indicator of what makes that specific piece unique is REQUIRED!!!!!!!!

Uniquely, I LIKE the BF, on one side, 20MS07 mark on the obverse of a Foster knife....as I expect to own one from each year for at least 10 years, it will look cool when they are all laid out at once.


Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
I don't mind it as long as it doesn't intrude on the overall look of the knife. Bill Pease uses a system that incorporates Model/Steel and Number Made. For instance SWM20 would be a Swinger, steel is ATS34 and he's made 20 of that
model. His etching is on the right side of the blade and is not easily seen.

Win

You can barely see the number on the top half of the blade:

standard.jpg
 
CUTS LIKE A KRIS said:
Can you set up a false guard that would allow you to place the stamp against it to strike so that all stamps start from the same level. OR even make a jig that is placed as a guard that holds 4 stamps in place so that they are struck in sequence?? Just talking out of my behind as I like the stamp idea, and think it is worth thinking outside of the box for. Perhaps a brass/bronze holder/guard so it will not scratch the steel?
Just throwing some things around- you guys are the pro's!!
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Now, why didn't I think of that?! That's a very good idea, thank you. I'll try that on some scrap steel...

Here's another option, a little expensive though.

http://shortorderproducts.com/Metal_Stamping_Pages/ms_ai_model_98/ms-ai_Model_98.html
 
Kohai999 said:
Weld a stamp holder onto a cheap arbor press, and you have the same thing for less than $100.00....(thought you knifemakers were supposed to be creative.:D)

Best regards,

STeven Garsson
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:D I did actually try the arbor press for my makers mark, but it didn't have quite the oomph it needed.... Might work for the numbers, though.
 
Phillip Patton said:
:D I did actually try the arbor press for my makers mark, but it didn't have quite the oomph it needed.... Might work for the numbers, though.
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You smack the top of the arbor with a hammer once you have it lined up, and making contact with the blade....you don't try to "press" the stamp into the blade, it will bounce, and not line up right every time.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
Kohai999 said:
You smack the top of the arbor with a hammer once you have it lined up, and making contact with the blade....you don't try to "press" the stamp into the blade, it will bounce, and not line up right every time.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
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I did try the hammer, but it still didn't work well, plus the top of the arbor was mushrooming badly. Junk arbor....

I did make a frame for using a car jack to press the mark in, but I don't have suitable car jack...
Anyway, I need a jig to hold the number stamps together. I'll see what I can come up with.
 
I like the idea of being able to know type of steel and any other pertinent details. I remember reading an article about some people who had came up with some way to microstamp serial numbers on gun parts in such a way that the fired cases would all show that number. I'm not in favor of that; but I'm thinking it might be a way to put info inconspicuously on a knife.
 
Serial#/registration#s are very useful IMO, to help guard against counterfeits, for date verification, insurance purposes, documenting ownership etc..

The numbers don't necessarily have to be stamped into the knife, but can be listed on registration certificates along with a photo and other pertinent information.

It's a very worthwhile service for a maker to provide.
 
Pantograph or electric etch discreetly placed on the blade. A good place to sn a bowie is on the TOP of the guard, looking from the tip of the knife. You really have to look for it to find it and its in non-hardened fittings rather than the blade.

STeven, Loveless uses the electric pencil to mark his knives because he is anathema to stamp his knives at all. He can get away with a lot more than Mr. Patton. :)

I have always thought the electric pencil markings were cheesy, just like the red liner. Loveless is a product of the 50's however..
 
Phillip, I noticed that you started this thread after you sent a 10" ironwood bowie out to Les Robertson without a serial number in your ususal spot. Is this the start of a new system for you?
 
Raymond3 said:
Phillip, I noticed that you started this thread after you sent a 10" ironwood bowie out to Les Robertson without a serial number in your ususal spot. Is this the start of a new system for you?
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Hi Raymond,
Yes, I think for the moment (until I find a method for marking that suits me) I'm going to quit stamping the serial numbers. Instead I'm going to start including a certificate of origin with each knife, which still isn't a perfect fix, since the knife and certificate can be separated.

Thanks for bringing it up. I was going to post my decision here, but life kept preventing me from doing so. ;)
 
I don't have the expertise or clout some others do... but my personal opinion is that I really like some sort of mark or serial # that gives a history of the knife in question.

I have one of your blades Phillip and love it, and the serial # doesn't detract from it in my opinion at all. I also like the fact that 5-10 years from now I could contact you, or my son could and get the details about the knife if I forget them. Heck, I have a hard time remembering a couple months, let alone many years down the road. Plus as mentioned above, types of metals and materials used obviously effect the price in lieu of an insurance claim or in the secondary market.

Perhaps incorporating some of the design elements that others have listed would be a great 'compromise' or change in style to show the improvements you've been making.

Here's the beautiful W2 blade you made for me... :D I think this was the first one that you started contouring the handles since I talked you into giving it a try. See... there's some collector value added... :D

PhillipPatton_MaroonEDC.jpg


PhillipPatton_MaroonEDC5.jpg


PhillipPatton_MaroonEDC7.jpg


PhillipPatton_MaroonEDC3.jpg
 
I agree with dcv69: the way you number your knives unique, is like putting your signature on them. But, on the other hand, as already said by Stephen, they should be done carefully and to the same standard as all the other parts of your knives (personally, I'll suggest them a little smaller, always stamped).
That could be another step in your way to improve your work.
Just another note... you're applying for the JS stamp, isnt'it? Some other makers mark their JS where you actually stamp your indivudual number... you should find the right way to combine all these information...
But, please, don't stop to number them.
 
IMO, The best area to number your knives is on the TOP of the guard. Simply number the guard before final assembly. In this fashion the serial number is well hidden unless you are looking straight at the tip of the knife. I prefer engraved markings with a pantograph, but on the softer guard material you could probably get a cleaner stamped serial number than you could on steel.

Serial numbers are "nice to have" as long as they don't cosmetically detract from the rest of the knife. There is nothing more distracting to my eye than an otherwise beautiful knife with a crooked, shallow, or double stamp or in this case an uneven attempt at numbering.
 
I agree with Anthony. The number should be applied so as it can be found if necessary but not noticed at a glance.
 
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