Sharp Busse Knife Tips

idahoskunk

idahoskunk

Joined
Mar 10, 2002
Messages
19,808
i'm starting this thread so the old hogs and new piglets with a lil more busse savvy can share their knife tips, knowledge if you will, on how they care for their busse's. if you have a cool no bull crap tip and would like to share it please post it here.

i never take micarta past 250 degrees (it will go higher)

i clean my blades with gasoline or wd-40 or a fast wipe with paint thinner (scotch is bad to waste on a knife)

double cutting will not hurt micarta

beating the piss out of your busse will only make it feel better

scotch brite pads will restore satin finish

amy-0 personally blesses all my busse's and pillows

strop your busse using ceramic sticks or leather strops
 
i use my satin finished blades, patina is my friend, patina is good, the only shiny part is the edge, i live on the edge, email me at one.skunk.@the.edge.com

buy kydex for water and wet conditions, it's a lil noisy, buy leather for traditional woods look, it a lil quiter, buy from the makers on the busse combat page or our www.bussecompany.com store page, they are mostly the same.





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baton your busse through wood using a short wooden club, in an emergency use a rock, if you're really in trouble use your partner. busse's carry a full warranty :thumbup:
 
If for some reason you should drop a Busse, by all means get the hell out of the way. Do NOT try to catch it or block its fall with any appendages. Your Busse will likely survive any fall just fine. However, should you try to catch it and grab the blade by mistake, you will almost surely need a trip to the ER!
 
Accidental Cuts:

Really big cuts hurt less since you sever nerves and stuff. Little slices hurt bad.

If selecting a Busse to trim your toenails, go 1/4" or bigger and greater than 20oz.

Coating:

The most fun way to strip coating is by chopping and batoning thru large chunks of wood.

Paint stripper doesn't hurt micarta when stripping the rest of the coating from the blade.

If using chemical stripper for a Busse, remember there are two kinds: a harsh acid type from Home Depot and Scotch from the corner liquor store. Always use the acid based type. The Scotch might unintentionally strip the wrong Busse with disastrous results! :) (Not too mention, the Home Depot stuff is cheaper. Have you priced a bottle of JWB lately?!)

 
steelnut said:

Biggins' in your neck of the woods?:p
Click to expand...

Doh!!!
.
drinker.jpg
 
Never throw a busse at a flat car panel(fender, door, Hood,etc) if you're less tha 15 feet from it as it will come flying back.

Always have a snap type sheath for your Busse when your in a fast boat on choppy water at high speed.

Factory edges dont last as long as freshly sharpened edges.

800 or above grit level edge will last longer than a rough finished edge but will appear not to cut as well.

If you look like grampa you are surely to become a meat sandwich for the Busse shop girls.

If you look like a ducci you are likely to become a meat sandwich for Dbrown,Mhawg and Jerry.
 
When at Blade, all piglets must stand two feet back from the HOGS at the trough or at the PIT bar.

If you are going to custom grind your Busse knife, do it sober, only Jerry and Garth have the ability to grind correctly while drunk.

Sending booze along with orders to Busse or the Company store will get you to the top of the list.

Never mention you are "thinking" about buying a knife you saw for sale, only talk about it after you bought it, the HOGs always seem to have way to get there first if they catch wind of it.

:D
 
M.E.K. will dull the shine to a crinkle finish blade. Only use enough to break the gloss, pat dry with cloth towel. ( Worked on my Fatty Mistress).
 
oh yah and the most important tip of all .....

If a fellow hog is holding and getting ready to buy a private sellers INFI at blade go directly to the private seller and give him a wad of cash for the kife, so that the seller goes and rips said knife right out of the hands of the other Hog as the Hog gets that Dumbfounded look on his face. - priceless
 
To use a spray soap to clean blade and handle:Use Simple Green and a brush, it will remove tree sap/blood and every thing else I have gotten on my knives including dried peanut butter and Jelly.

Also is the easy way to get your Micarta handles back to original color
 
Cobalt said:
oh yah and the most important tip of all .....

If a fellow hog is holding and getting ready to buy a private sellers INFI at blade go directly to the private seller and give him a wad of cash for the kife, so that the seller goes and rips said knife right out of the hands of the other Hog as the Hog gets that Dumbfounded look on his face. - priceless
Click to expand...

Oh, that's cold! :thumbup: So who did you do that to? :D
 
I believe it was done to D-Brown... I can't remember the other guy. Uh.. Milton? Morris? Oh, yeah... that Mike guy. ;)
 
-Micarta can be cleaned with simple dish soap.
-So can the blade, especially if you employ a scrub pad and a stiff brush when cleaning sap and other things (works best with corrugated knives).
-For nasty dings, smooth it out with a file if the steels don't work.
-Use sandpaper and rubber "workout" matting to sharpen your knives and steels/ceramics to maintain (still haven't gotten around to getting a strop)
-Carburetor cleaner takes off the stuff soap won't clean off.
-A Battle Mistress or Eu-17 Magnum can be used to shave your back and make wigs for more INFI money when sharpened properly.
-Always have 2 sheaths for your "real" user knives: A Kydex and a Leather sheath.
-When looking for INFI, leave no stone unturned. My personal future HOG motto.
-Uncoated knives may rust if not cared for (meaning if you use them they'll be fine :D)
-If you want something, keep posting for it and it'll eventually come. After a long time in some cases.
-Smashed tips suck so straighten them out with a file and hone em back with some sandpaper.
-Grinducci's do some cool work and are top notch individuals :p
 
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