Sharp Busse Knife Tips

Know and utilize the different edges...

V grind - Sharper. Not quite as strong. Best for slicing. I use V for EDC style knives (GWs and such). Use a good system (I use a Sharpmaker) to keep the angle if you don't have an eye for such things. Sharpen "edge first".

Convex grind - Much stronger for chopping and such. I use convex on my FBM, Mud Razor, Mini EU17 and BATAC. Easy to sharpen in the field. Use "metal" sandpaper (Autozone!) on a softer backing (leather works well as does a stiff mouse pad). Sharpen "spine first". I start with 400 grit and work through to 2000.

Both edges come into their own by stropping on a piece of leather. My BATAC came very sharp from the factory but 20 minutes on plain leather had it shaving sharp.:thumbup:

Those are my tips....

Ken
 
XMP said:
So point me in the right direction for the best ceramic sticks, thanks.
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I just use the one's that came with my Spyderco Sharpmaker (which I no longer use). Waterstones do the trick when bringing an edge back from the grave too.:thumbup:
 
kbuzbee said:
V grind - Sharper. Not quite as strong. Best for slicing.
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I've found that convex works the best all around having not discovered it until recently and becoming a big fan. I used v shaped edges for years but have abandoned them for convex.:thumbup: Even works well with S30V which is prone to chipping.
 
Throwing your Busses will not only clean 'em, but the air passing over the INFI will sharpen it to a razor's edge..
 
idahoskunk said:
baton your busse through wood using a short wooden club, in an emergency use a rock, if you're really in trouble use your partner. busse's carry a full warranty :thumbup:
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and how does the warranty apply to your partner, if it does come to that?

;) ;)


Winston
 
pbubsy said:
I've found that convex works the best all around having not discovered it until recently and becoming a big fan. I used v shaped edges for years but have abandoned them for convex.:thumbup: Even works well with S30V which is prone to chipping.
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Don't get me wrong, I love convex as well. One really nice thing is it doesn't change (from metal removal) as quickly as V will. But I still get my V sharper than my convex. I like, and use, them both.

Ken
 
kbuzbee said:
Don't get me wrong, I love convex as well. One really nice thing is it doesn't change (from metal removal) as quickly as V will. But I still get my V sharper than my convex. I like, and use, them both.

Ken
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For the longest time it was way harder to put a good convex edge on, but I've finally gotten it down to the point where it's just a second thought. It's STILL way easier to put a v shaped edge on though. I totally agree on that. I've been putting zero edges on some folders and they kick ass. Got a really nice one on my Benchmade Griptillian. Hellova little knife for the money. I haven't treated it very well and it still keeps on going :thumbup: I thinned the edge out to make it easier to get rid of the 10 or so chips I'd made in the edge.
 
idahoskunk said:
i'm starting this thread so the old hogs and new piglets with a lil more busse savvy can share their knife tips, knowledge if you will, on how they care for their busse's. if you have a cool no bull crap tip and would like to share it please post it here.

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Hogs, Piglets and even Skunks should send all their INFI to the Wolf Den for proper care.

:D :D

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Oops, I am not a Hog or Piglet ..... :eek:

And thus was not asked to "share" ..... sorry, the wolf is just trying to help. :rolleyes:
 
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- Do not lean the handles of your Res-C Basics (or others) on the hot rocks or metal body of your fire pit. (Don't ask me how I know). But if it does happen try to shape it back before it cools and resets.

- Chips and rolls that won't sharpen out easily can be filed down and a new edge can be applied.

- A wire brush will help remove coating during the stripping process. Especially in those hard to reach areas.

- Use your INFI or give it to me! ;)
 
When ordering from Busse or the Company Store, figure out how many of each knife you want and order double that amount! If you don't like it you can always sell it. But if you REALLY like it, you're gonna want more of 'em than you originally thought.Why did I only order one badger?
 
Do not batton with metal.

Especially cast metal, anything that is harder than your knife may fracture it and cause it to break.

I think that Jerry would still replace the knife, but it is a real nuisance and is one of the very few ways to mistread a Busse knife.
 
In addition to normal caution, I've found that Kevlar reinforced gloves are VERY nice when working on/around and with Busse knives.

I often don't know I've been cut until I'm either in the shower or use some of that alcohol-based "hand cleaner/disinfectant".:eek:
 
Oku said:
In addition to normal caution, I've found that Kevlar reinforced gloves are VERY nice when working on/around and with Busse knives.
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I hear ya. I cut myself while working on my Ruck with a sanding block. I brought home from work a pair of cut-resistant gloves to finish the job.
 
The last time I cut myself seriously was with a serrated bread knife 5 years ago I was drunk off my gourd trying to cut a bagel for the toaster at about 2 am. Other than that I got a razor type cut from a Benchmade liner lock that I closed a little too fast (not paying attention). I've never cut myself on a Busse except for the intentional ones (I sometimes test the edge on my calluses). HOW DO YOU ALL KEEP MESSING YOURSELVES UP? :p
 
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