Sharpening a REALLY dull D2 Knife And sharpening... And Sharpening.......

DMT stones are the way to go. That is if you can devote the time to learn how to freehand.
 
I also have a HF 1x30 sander disk combo.

Makes quick work of D2.

I can tell that the D2 is much more abrasion resistant than my other steels, though.
 
I have not experienced this with D2, but I have with BG-42. Was tough I tell ya.....lol.
 
Diamond or Shapton ceramic stones. Once you get a sharp edge it is easy to maintain. You might want to look into the mainteinace forum, lots of posts on D2
 
fmendez said:
Diamond or Shapton ceramic stones. Once you get a sharp edge it is easy to maintain. You might want to look into the mainteinace forum, lots of posts on D2
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aquaman67 said:
The trick is to keep it touched up, once you get it sharp.
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LOL Yup I aggree. This is my son-in-law's knife. My EDC knife of the day gets stropped when it gets put back away. I never have a dull knife.
 
These extreme steels are a kind of false economy. One way or another, the effort will be needed to sharpen the blades, just like lower hardness, less abrasion resistant steels.

That said, an acute, thin edge profile can make things much easier and less ambiguous. Of course, if the knife needs to be reprofiled to get to that acute, thin state...
 
A cheap silicon carbide norton stone from the hardware store will work great on D2, you can even use it with the sharpmaker if you want by leaning the stone against the rods.
 
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D2 really isn't bad at all to sharpen so I am not getting it at all, and that's without power equipment or even guided systems....

It's not even a high carbide steel so I am not getting what the issues are, and that's having dealt with a number of knives in D2 over the years.
 
The problem I see hear was letting that blade (or any blade) getting that dull to begin with. A few Licks on my black arkansas keeps my D2 sharp. However, D2 is hard to sharpen once it gets THAT dull- or if reprofiling the edge. That tells you of the high quality wear resistance that D2 is prized for...
 
wandering woodsman said:
The problem I see hear was letting that blade (or any blade) getting that dull to begin with. A few Licks on my black arkansas keeps my D2 sharp. However, D2 is hard to sharpen once it gets THAT dull- or if reprofiling the edge. That tells you of the high quality wear resistance that D2 is prized for...
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High Quality wear resistance Compared to what?
 
Did you ask him how it came to have flatspots and chips? If that was me it would be a carton of top shelf imported beer and just leave it in the downstairs fridge thanks mate.
 
Ankerson said:
D2 really isn't bad at all to sharpen so I am not getting it at all, and that's without power equipment or even guided systems....

It's not even a high carbide steel so I am not getting what the issues are, and that's having dealt with a number of knives in D2 over the years.
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I wish you'd have said so earlier. I would have sent you the one I worked on last night.
 
the sharpmaker is for touchups on already sharpened blades. Use a coarse diamond stone for reprofiling or resetting a totally dulled edge. finer grits are for refining the edge once it has been established. it will take endless frustrating hours to remove the necessary steel with fine stones.
 
Ankerson said:
For reprofiling Silicone Carbide will eat D2 for breakfast, something like a Norton Med stone.
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This^^

I have sharpened lots of D2 in its many forms and nothing, I repeat NOTHING does better than a sic stone, even a fine sic stone eats it up.

And while CPM-D2 takes the most beautiful polish, you will find it performs best when really toothy.
 
knifenut1013 said:
This^^

I have sharpened lots of D2 in its many forms and nothing, I repeat NOTHING does better than a sic stone, even a fine sic stone eats it up.

And while CPM-D2 takes the most beautiful polish, you will find it performs best when really toothy.
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It sure made very short work of the D2 I have dealt with over the years. :D
 
Ankerson said:
For reprofiling Silicone Carbide will eat D2 for breakfast, something like a Norton Med stone.
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I must agree with this. If it is only a little dull I'll take it straight to the fine Norton SiC stone then on to the fine India (Chromium Oxide) and man it leaves a good edge. If very dull I take it to the coarse SiC then these others and no problems they'll do it quick. DM
 
knifenut1013 said:
This^^

I have sharpened lots of D2 in its many forms and nothing, I repeat NOTHING does better than a sic stone, even a fine sic stone eats it up.

And while CPM-D2 takes the most beautiful polish, you will find it performs best when really toothy.
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I've noticed you've made a turn around lately from loving Nothing but your diamond stones before to Now liking Norton SiC and India stones.?? Glad you saw the light. DM
 
Ankerson said:
D2 really isn't bad at all to sharpen so I am not getting it at all, and that's without power equipment or even guided systems....

It's not even a high carbide steel so I am not getting what the issues are, and that's having dealt with a number of knives in D2 over the years.
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Wasn't going to reply until I saw this, and I have to say I don't get it either. I have a RAT 5, a RAT 7, four different Queen folders with D2, and three Kershaws with D2 including the JYD Combo mentioned above. So several knives in D2 from different makers.

It is a bit harder than some steels, but not much. I sharpen all of my Queen knives on my Lansky to set the edge (as all my Queens but one have come pretty dull), and the Lansky has the old Alox stones. I start with the black coarse (which is about like the front curb) and work my way through the stones. No problems over here and I have sharpened them all this way, going though all five stones ending with the ceramic polisher. Kershaws got the same treatment.

Not as much work was needed on the Ontarios, so I free handed them on my old Norton India stone and finished them on an old Arkansas stone. The Arkansas stone took a bit of work as it is fine enough to really polish the edge.

Maybe the key is to start with something more coarse and work you way through the grits. Working yourself to death with medium grit stones to set edges or sharpen a really dull knife will wear anyone out.

D2 isn't one of the softer stainless steels we see so much of or the really soft 1095 prized by the traditional guys, but it certainly isn't difficult to edge properly.

For me, I have found that as mentioned above that D2 seems to cut the best when a bit toothy. Where I polished before, I stop now at 600gr and it cuts very well.

Robert
 
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