Sharpening a Scandi Grind - Video.

Thanks, I just received my Koster nessie wth a Scandi grind. It was used and a bit dull. I am excited to sharpen a keen edge on it. That nessie is a great design.

This will be my first time sharpening a scandi. Thanks for posting that link.

Koster makes a great knife!
 
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Japanese water stones are very, very nice, but they are also very, very expensive. I hope to have some, some day. I have many Scandi edges, including a Muskrat Man, that I'd love to sharpen up on some stones like that, but until I'm willing to fork over the $ for them, I'll just have to keep making do.

Thanks for the links, they are very interesting. Especially the window tip.
 
I'd say Ray Mears knows his stuff. I also wanted to pick up some of those japanes water stones. I see them on ebay occaissionally.
 
I love Ray! Although, he is far from ultra-light... though that's not a bad thing... his videos are my favorite of the bushcraft/survival people.
 
I haven't found japanese water stones that pricey. I got a King for $25-30.

I know they can get very expensive but mine work great.
 
The ones I've seen were over $50-$100 for the finer grits. The course stones were in the $20 to $30 range. What I'm talking about is getting a system like that (3 stones) can get rather pricey. Maybe I just found then in unreasonably expensive places and should keep looking or maybe the brands I saw were top o' the line.
 
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interesting....I haven't seen japanese stones that cheap either...


Something else to note: they have to be constantly lapped....they get out of square very easily/quickly.


I use almost exclusively DMT diamond hones. They work great, last a long time and stay square/flat/true.

These work great in the field:

http://www.dmtsharp.com/products/diafold.htm



...and these are best at home:

http://www.dmtsharp.com/products/duosharp.htm



I used to sharpen chisels in a wood shop and we used these duosharp hones. Worth every penny - great for consistent daily use (we sharpened at the end of every day).



The 2 sided stones cut down on space...just flip it over. And since they are diamond hones...they will cut any knife steel just fine.



I was eyeballing these at the Blade Show....they're exactly what I need/want....just too heavy! :(

http://www.dmtsharp.com/products/diasharp.htm
(Double-Sided 6" stone)
 
Lee Valley Hardware has really nice pocket waterstones but the super high grit one just polishes. The lower grit one is great for my 01's and D2.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=33011&cat=1,43072,43071&ap=1

However the Koster with the 3v it really takes a long time to sharpen it with the water stone.

The best I have found is the fine (red) and extra fine(green) diamond plate sharpeners that Ragnar sells

http://www.ragweedforge.com/SharpeningCatalog.html

But the diamond plates are really rough new. Use them to profile an axe or khukuri to knock off the rough parts and then use them on the Koster and then finish up with the 1000 grit pocket water stone.:thumbup:

Edit: See Dan just posted at the same time as me about the diamond plates.
 
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Hey Dan,

Since I am talking about sharpening your 3V bushcraft - would these work fine?

http://theconsumerlink.com/DiamondMachiningTechnology/detail/TCL+D6C/0

If I got all three grits - it would be about the same price as one of those larger ones you linked. I am knife poor right now! ;)

Also, Hollow - I don't understand how the same grit in Diamond and the same grit in Waterstone would take longer? Isn't grit grit?

Also, Dan doesn't list 3V as that hard to sharpen - is there something I am missing?


TF
 
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Hey Dan,

Since I am talking about sharpening your 3V bushcraft - would these work fine?

http://theconsumerlink.com/DiamondMa...tail/TCL+D6C/0

If I got all three grits - it would be about the same price as one of those larger ones you linked. I am knife poor right now!
Click to expand...

Yes - those would work great! I personally feel a 6" stone is the best size for sharpening fixed blades.



Dan
 
Dan,

I am sure a 6" stone would be best - I used a 2 X 3" stone up until now - I am psyched to have more inches - does that make me too much of a man? ;)

Also Dan, do you think that the Japanese water stones would make sharpening the 3V too tough? Would you advise against them?

TF
 
Talfuchre said:
What do you all think of this video from Ray Mears - Watch Video 1 and 2.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bQN4jcXDjbE&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0a2Jm3pkXqk&feature=related

I am thinking of picking up some Japanese Water Stones to sharpen my Kosters Bushcraft (3V) and my Muskrat Man (L6).

What are you thoughts on the two methods shown.

TF
Click to expand...

He gives a lot of good tips but his sharpening technique needs some work. He does good until he tries to strop on his belt and then sharpen on a window:eek:, I think i would skip the last two steps.
 
I know I dont put too much effort into my sharpening tools. shaving is shaving how ever way you get there. I take two minutes with a stone from the hard ware that was like $5 dollars, and considering a $100 dollar stone is gonna do the same thing.....
 
i'm somewhere along the lines of fonly...

i just use a generic two sided stone from the hardware store (since replaced with a longer one from an antique shop...looks like the fine side was never used) since that is the finest grit i have in stones. followed by a strop it gives a slightly toothy shaving edge.

i really want some diamond stones in high grits so that i can polish up a scandi and never have to worry about a dished stone...
 
you guys' comments crack me up....:D :p





Also Dan, do you think that the Japanese water stones would make sharpening the 3V too tough? Would you advise against them?
Click to expand...

Water stones would work...but would be kinda counterproductive. They work best when you have a small micro bevel (read: little metal removal)



Basically, it comes down to this:


Sharpening a scandi grind means having a truly flat stone. Either you regularly lapp the stone, or you go with something that does not need lapping. Water stones need a lot more lapping than even arkansas stones. Diamond stones (like the diasharp ones) are not immune to needing lapping, though they only need a little......but the "perforated" diamond hones never need lapping (wouldn't work anyway). So, you guys need to think what matters most to you and go with it. You can do a scandi on nearly any stone/surface (yes, even glass windows...:foot: ) as long as it's flat.


The 2nd factor is that there is more metal removal with a scandi grind, than with a micro bevel. So, you'll be wearing down your stones/hones quicker. Keep that in mind too.



All in all, sounds like you all have some good ideas and direction. :thumbup:


Dan
 
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