Sharpening a Scandi Grind - Video.

Daniel Koster said:
you guys' comments crack me up....:D :p







Water stones would work...but would be kinda counterproductive. They work best when you have a small micro bevel (read: little metal removal)



Basically, it comes down to this:


Sharpening a scandi grind means having a truly flat stone. Either you regularly lapp the stone, or you go with something that does not need lapping. Water stones need a lot more lapping than even arkansas stones. Diamond stones (like the diasharp ones) are not immune to needing lapping, though they only need a little......but the "perforated" diamond hones never need lapping (wouldn't work anyway). So, you guys need to think what matters most to you and go with it. You can do a scandi on nearly any stone/surface (yes, even glass windows...:foot: ) as long as it's flat.


The 2nd factor is that there is more metal removal with a scandi grind, than with a micro bevel. So, you'll be wearing down your stones/hones quicker. Keep that in mind too.



All in all, sounds like you all have some good ideas and direction. :thumbup:


Dan
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Some really good info there Dan. Thanks for jumping in on this.
 
Daniel Koster said:
The 2nd factor is that there is more metal removal with a scandi grind, than with a micro bevel.
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Yes, but this way you thicken the edge (i mean: after several sharpening sessions). The amount of steel to remove isn't an issue with a diamond stone. Though, a micro bevel is useful or necessary in case of edge rolling.

dantzk.
 
I'm ok with getting a coarse stone...I'm just advising against using it for daily sharpening. The medium diamond is plenty aggressive...even on 3V...and even for scandi grinds. :thumbup:
 
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