Sharpening a TGLB with a Spyderco Tri-angle sharpmaker

B

BusseAddict

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Oct 31, 2015
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The TGLB come with a 60 degree edge right? can I re profile it to a 40 degree edge with the Spyderco Tri-angle Sharpmaker? its the only sharpening system I own. im very new to sharpening, so I could really use some advice. thanks
 
I am curios about this too. I got several sharpening systems but I still suck. My dad with an oil stone could make a knife any angle and razor sharp. Me. They end up like a plastic butter knife.
 
I think you are going to need the diamond course stones for that system, if you are trying to reprofile it. Just from my experience with INFI that system works well to maintain but for reprofiling you need more. Just my .02's worth, I'm sure others with more experience will be along. Try the search there is tons of sharpening info in here :-)
 
ok. so do you recommend that I get the diamond course stones for the sharpmaker? or should I just send it in to Busse to get re profiled?

thanks for the help
 
IMHO, The Sharpmaker should have been named the SharpKEEPER, as I've found it more useful to touch up blades rather than reprofile or hog off a lot of stock...

In my piglet-like sharpening endeavors, I've found the Sharpmaker VERY useful for touching up the apex and applying a microbevel on large fixed blades, YMMV.

Coarse wet/dry sandpaper + a strop block would serve you better for high volume stock removal, if you want to go full hand finishing only...

Belt sanding, slack & platen both, if you want the fastest (but riskiest in terms of HT damage) method...:eek:

Sending to the shop (when it reopens for new business) is the safest route....Good Luck with your endeavors and keep us updated! :D

Oh, BTW, have you ever used the TriAngle rods freehand, like files?...I like employing them that way better than the recommended way sometimes! :thumbup:
 
I would be skeptical you could get Busse to reprofile the edge if the Custom Shop is closed. But maybe not. That really isn't a lot of customizing.
If it were me, and that is all I had, then I'd get the diamond stones for the sharpmaker. I have and use several systems (and have a Sharpmaker). I haven't used the Sharpmaker in so long I couldn't tell you where it is off the top of my head. I can tell you one thing for certain, though. It will take you until your ripe old age to reprofile 60 to 40 on the brown ceramic stones!
 
I have wrapped the rods with 180 grit sandpaper and taped them at the top and bottom. Works about as well as diamond rods without the expense. They also slide on and off easily :)
 
Get a wicked edge system..... It will cost as much as a Busse but will be well worth it... Razor sharp everytime
 
Thanks for all the help guys. You're awesome... I guess my best option is sending it in to the custom shop. and at the same time getting the coating stripped off. what do you guys think is the best finish for a working blade? anyone know approximately how much that might cost? its gonna be a bit pricey with the shipping to begin with since im in Canada.... Ill probably end up getting it re sheathed all at the same time.
 
Citristrip that blade and work that edge until it's hair poppin. It feels really good to do things yourself, search is your friend
 
the wicked edge is a bit to pricey for me right now. I would love to do it myself, but I haven't re profiled a knife before, and I don't want to start on a Busse. I just gotta send it in I think.
 
PeteyTwoPointOne said:
IMHO, The Sharpmaker should have been named the SharpKEEPER, as I've found it more useful to touch up blades rather than reprofile or hog off a lot of stock...

In my piglet-like sharpening endeavors, I've found the Sharpmaker VERY useful for touching up the apex and applying a microbevel on large fixed blades, YMMV.

Coarse wet/dry sandpaper + a strop block would serve you better for high volume stock removal, if you want to go full hand finishing only...

Belt sanding, slack & platen both, if you want the fastest (but riskiest in terms of HT damage) method...:eek:

Sending to the shop (when it reopens for new business) is the safest route....Good Luck with your endeavors and keep us updated! :D

Oh, BTW, have you ever used the TriAngle rods freehand, like files?...I like employing them that way better than the recommended way sometimes! :thumbup:
Click to expand...


thanks for the advice. i'll send it in... no I havent tried to use the rods free hand. little too advanced for me right now.
 
Hey brother, I don't think the Busse Combat Custom Shop is taking on new orders now...they're in a one year freeze to catch up...

As for the Wicked Edge or the Sharpmaker, you're gonna have a hard time (read: impossible) hitting the apex at the angle you desire with either one on factory settings because the TGLB is simply too thick behind the edge...

Your only choice, as I see it thru my beady little piglet eyes, is to either hog off a lot of the shoulder =OR= just roll with the factory convex and continue to maintain that contour with mousepad + sandpaper or strop + sandpaper, or carefully with a slack belt sander...
 
The Sharp Maker is wonderful ---- for what it does. It is an excellent way of creating micro-bevels and for realigning the apex. It is in no way shape or form --- a proper sharpening system capable of fixing a damaged edge in a reasonable amount of time. Like mentioned above --- it simply maintains sharpness by readily making/maintaining a micro-bevel.

There are many videos on YouTube that show people using the Work Sharp Ken Onion Edition or even the regular Work Sharp Sharpening system. This is much more capable and it can produce excellent results. I highly recommend it f you're on a tight budget.

The most precise and by far the highest quality system that I'm familiar with --- is the Wicked Edge Sharpening System with certain necessary mods to ensure consistency. This option is much more expensive and it's time consuming when trying to achieve perfection.





 
PeteyTwoPointOne said:
Hey brother, I don't think the Busse Combat Custom Shop is taking on new orders now...they're in a one year freeze to catch up...

As for the Wicked Edge or the Sharpmaker, you're gonna have a hard time (read: impossible) hitting the apex at the angle you desire with either one on factory settings because the TGLB is simply too thick behind the edge...

Your only choice, as I see it thru my beady little piglet eyes, is to either hog off a lot of the shoulder =OR= just roll with the factory convex and continue to maintain that contour with mousepad + sandpaper or strop + sandpaper, or carefully with a slack belt sander...
Click to expand...

oh, that sucks. when exactly did they stop taking new orders? im not that advanced at sharpening yet, or reprofiling. so I dont feel comfortable doing it myself. If I cant send it to busse, can you recommend somewhere else I can send it to get it done?
 
Rob_Mob said:
The Sharp Maker is wonderful ---- for what it does. It is an excellent way of creating micro-bevels and for realigning the apex. It is in no way shape or form --- a proper sharpening system capable of fixing a damaged edge in a reasonable amount of time. Like mentioned above --- it simply maintains sharpness by readily making/maintaining a micro-bevel.

There are many videos on YouTube that show people using the Work Sharp Ken Onion Edition or even the regular Work Sharp Sharpening system. This is much more capable and it can produce excellent results. I highly recommend it f you're on a tight budget.

The most precise and by far the highest quality system that I'm familiar with --- is the Wicked Edge Sharpening System with certain necessary mods to ensure consistency. This option is much more expensive and it's time consuming when trying to achieve perfection.





Click to expand...

the result that you get from that wicked edge looks amazing. just too pricey for me right now. I've come to the conclusion that I don't feel comfortable trying to reprofile this blade myself. So since Busse isnt taking orders right now, ill have to send it somewhere else I guess. thanks for the help. if you could recommend somewhere to send it that would be awesome.
 
I like the 204 for light sharpening and touch ups but for reprofiling I use the Worksharp without the guard,this also gives a convex edge that I prefer. I have found the 204 is not real easy to use on blades longer than 4 in as well.
 
is the Work Sharp Ken Onion Edition easy for beginners do you think? would I be able to reprofile it easily with that system? maybe it is my best shot if Busse isnt taking orders. just nervous about working on such an expensive blade.
 
u812 said:
I like the 204 for light sharpening and touch ups but for reprofiling I use the Worksharp without the guard,this also gives a convex edge that I prefer. I have found the 204 is not real easy to use on blades longer than 4 in as well.
Click to expand...

can the worksharp do a 40 degree V grind? or just convex?
 
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