Sharpening a TGLB with a Spyderco Tri-angle sharpmaker

BusseAddict said:
is the Work Sharp Ken Onion Edition easy for beginners do you think? would I be able to reprofile it easily with that system? maybe it is my best shot if Busse isnt taking orders. just nervous about working on such an expensive blade.
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Absolutely yes! It is fantastic for knives that are frequently used and abused and then need quick edge work --- only to be able to immediately go out and use and abuse all over again
 
Rob_Mob said:
Absolutely yes! It is fantastic for knives that are frequently used and abused and then need quick edge work --- only to be able to immediately go out and use and abuse all over again
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it sounds great. but it only does convex grinds? is that correct? I would like to use something to reprofile the edge to a regular V grind. preferably a 40 degree edge so I can maintain it with the sharpmaker or something similar. I dont like the idea of sharpening a convex grind in the field.
 
BusseAddict said:
it sounds great. but it only does convex grinds? is that correct? I would like to use something to reprofile the edge to a regular V grind. preferably a 40 degree edge so I can maintain it with the sharpmaker or something similar. I dont like the idea of sharpening a convex grind in the field.
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I totally understand ---- look into the Lansky Sharpener --- I haven't used it, but it seems like a good compromise. I don't think you'll have to worry about sharpening it infield. The edge retention is solid enough to last you at least a full fledged excursion. Then when you get back to home base --- sharpen it if you like.
 
Rob_Mob said:
I totally understand ---- look into the Lansky Sharpener --- I haven't used it, but it seems like a good compromise. I don't think you'll have to worry about sharpening it infield. The edge retention is solid enough to last you at least a full fledged excursion. Then when you get back to home base --- sharpen it if you like.
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ill look into both of them and make my decision. thanks for the help Rob
 
Patience is your friend. I always freehand, even my most expensive knives, so far. And almost all of them I've had to reduce the edge angle.

You can start with a cheaper blade to get the feel, but the feel is going to change trmendously when you switch from cheap steel to INFI. And the difference in the time it takes is probably going to shock you. But at this point, I reduce the edge angle (or knock off the shoulders) on all my knives. The better the steel, the longer it'll take, but the more worth it will be. And you might screw up a surface finish here or there. But you'll have a knife at the end that you will know how to sharpen.
 
Rob_Mob said:
I totally understand ---- look into the Lansky Sharpener --- I haven't used it, but it seems like a good compromise. I don't think you'll have to worry about sharpening it infield. The edge retention is solid enough to last you at least a full fledged excursion. Then when you get back to home base --- sharpen it if you like.
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one more thing. would reprofiling the edge from 60 degrees to 30 or 25 be possible with the stones the wicked edge or the lansky sharpening system come with? do you think it would take a really long time considering its infi?
 
The Lansky system doesn't work well with thicker blades, I suppose one could purchase replacement longer bolts, but I have not tried, also I believe the TGLB has a rounded spine? That also doesn't bode well for the Lansky...

There are a number of forum members who offer sharpening/reprofilling services, I have no idea if any are in Canada though
 
Davidfs said:
The Lansky system doesn't work well with thicker blades, I suppose one could purchase replacement longer bolts, but I have not tried, also I believe the TGLB has a rounded spine? That also doesn't bode well for the Lansky...

There are a number of forum members who offer sharpening/reprofilling services, I have no idea if any are in Canada though
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damn. that sucks. yeah, it has a rounded spine. okay. ill have to check the forums and see if I can find someone to re profile it. if not ill go with the work sharp, and convex it.... thanks for the heads up on that David.
 
I mostly freehand now and just use the Sharpmaker for microbevels and touch ups. Sometimes I even just hold one of the brown rods and use it freehand if I am matching a different angle than 15 or 20.

For initial reprofiling when I was more getting the hang of things I made some budget sharpening blocks for $0.00. Basically just pieces of scrap 4x4 with the bottom end cut off at specific angles. I have 10, 12.5, 15 and 20 degree blocks. Then you can just lay your stone of choice up against the block and use the same vertical up and down strokes as the Sharpmaker. Continuing with the budget theme, I've found that cheap Norton combo stones (~$5) and mineral oil work pretty well for removing a lot of material in a reasonable amount of time. Depending on how patient you are, this method can produce a fairly clean v-edge bevel, or if you're rushing/allow some slop there will be a light convex to the bevel.
 
Just to open another potential solution: There are some professional sharpeners out there that could probably reprofile the edge to your specs for a reasonable fee, and then it would simply become the easier task of maintaining that edge. Most professionals would charge you a fraction of what a wicked edge would cost you.

There is one in particular on the 'tube that does it all with an Edge Pro Apex, and his results are impressive. He did a vid on a Team Gemini a customer sent in, and he was able to put out a nice edge.

Just a thought.

BOSS
 
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BOSS1 said:
Just to open another potential solution: There are some professional sharpeners out there that could probably reprofile the edge to your specs for a reasonable fee, and then it would simply become the easier task of maintaining that edge. Most professionals would charge you a fraction of what a wicked edge would cost you.

There is one in particular on the 'tube that does it all with an Edge Pro Apex, and his results are impressive. He did a vid on a Team Gemini a customer sent in, and he was able to put out a nice edge.

Just a thought.

BOSS
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yeah, I would prefer to send it in and get it professionally sharpened. I've just been having trouble finding where to send it. could you give me the info on the guy you're talking about? where is he located?
 
I would offer to sharpen for you for a reasonable price --- but I worry I'll lose my passion once it became a job/work. I'll keep you posted and message you if I change my mind.

I highly recommend you contact Josh from Razor Edge Knives --- he uses the same system that I use, but with some fancier mods. Just google Razor Edge Knives and tell Josh that Rob Abyane recommended him.
 
Rob_Mob said:
I would offer to sharpen for you for a reasonable price --- but I worry I'll lose my passion once it became a job/work. I'll keep you posted and message you if I change my mind.

I highly recommend you contact Josh from Razor Edge Knives --- he uses the same system that I use, but with some fancier mods. Just google Razor Edge Knives and tell Josh that Rob Abyane recommended him.
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Appreciate that Rob. Thanks. but I wouldn't want you to lose your passion. even though I don't think that's possible for any of us. I think we're knife nutz for life. for better or for worse (for our bank accounts)

Unless I can find someone closer to my location I think my best option is to get a work sharp and convex it. I know the edge that razor edge knives would put on it would be amazing, but sending my knife from BC Canada all the way to South Carolina would cost way too much in shipping.
 
BusseAddict said:
yeah, I would prefer to send it in and get it professionally sharpened. I've just been having trouble finding where to send it. could you give me the info on the guy you're talking about? where is he located?
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Greetings, I emailed you a link earlier...hopefully it found you.

Shoot me an email if it didn't.

Boss
 
If you want v-grinds you could always buy a EdgePro. I made diamond stones for it with DMT plates epoxied onto EdgePro blanks. It works very well, but it is not a fast method of sharpening like using a power tool.
 
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