Sharpening drives me crazy.

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Dec 30, 2008
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I seem to carry my sebenza less than other knives because I just can not get it as sharp as all my other knives. I carry steels that range from 154CM to elmax with many being S30V. My S35VN sebenza drives me crazy when I sharpen it. I swear I've sharpened this knife more than I've carried it. I used a sharp maker. I know I'm hitting the edge because I get a burr. I knock down the burr until there's nothing there and when I go to test cut paper, it's mediocre. I've tried stropping as well. What do I do...?
 
Do you use a sharpie to mark the edge?
Do you use both sets of ceramic sticks?
Have you thought about another sharpener?

I switched over to a KME because I had a difficult time with S30V getting the edge like I wanted it. I've never looked back and don't have any plans to change sharpening systems.
 
Do you use a sharpie to mark the edge?
Do you use both sets of ceramic sticks?
Have you thought about another sharpener?

I switched over to a KME because I had a difficult time with S30V getting the edge like I wanted it. I've never looked back and don't have any plans to change sharpening systems.

Ajack, Can you tell us more about the KME system?? I also have the sharpmaker and it doesnt do what i want it to do for the work involved.
 
I had trouble with a razor edge also. I switched to a dmt green fine, diamond. Also I use my black, hard arkansas stone for my Sebenza. It is funny but the harder / finer the grade sharpener, the better the job getting a good sharp edge.
 
Sebenza edges used to give me a tough time because of the way the shop "freehand" sharpens them on a wheel. It produces more of convex grind than a "V". You have to spend some time on an aggressive stone/diamond abrasive to basically reprofile the edge to fit whatever system you pick. A good loaded strop will more or less replicate the shop edge fairly quickly I've found, but getting a Sebe edge re-profiled to fit Sharpmaker's set angles can be a long and frustrating experience, especially on the curved section of the blade. And get diamond rods!
 
Ajack, please tell us more about kme system. I wanted to get something that doesnt cost $500 or $1000 just to sharpen my sebenzas easily and put a razor edge on them
 
Yeah, I'd back up Dallas' opinion as I strop to maintain the convex edge profile that comes from the shop. I was nervous about using my sharpmaker on my expensive blades, but for touch-ups it worked well. I never let the edge get blunt, so it was more preventative maintenance in my usage of the leather strop. It's loaded with Bark River Green compound, which is pretty gritty.
 
Ajack, please tell us more about kme system. I wanted to get something that doesnt cost $500 or $1000 just to sharpen my sebenzas easily and put a razor edge on them

I've always used the Lansky system and was content with it. Saw some videos on the KME and bit the bullet. I have the diamond stones and it ran about 200.00, considerably higher than the Lansky but nowhere near the WE.
The KME goes from 17 degrees to 30 in one degree increments which is way better than the Lansky. The stones are wider and I don't fear the stone slipping off the blade on the tip. The clamp is better and KME offers water stones that will fit the holder.
IMO, it is easier and better than the Lansky. I've never read a bad review on the KME
 
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Yes Crk's (for me) require a reprofile before Sharpmaker can do it's job well. How you get there is your choice, I use an Edge Pro to get the bevel around 18 deg, then after that it's a breeze. A few passes on the Sharpmaker, then green chrome strop block, easy.
Good luck!
 
My S35VN sebenza drives me crazy when I sharpen it. I swear I've sharpened this knife more than I've carried it.

I had to re-learn to sharpen, to get my Sebenzas perfect. I use a loaded leather strop, but do so very lightly, it's very easy to round off an otherwise razor sharp cutting edge with too much pressure.

I knock down the burr until there's nothing there and when I go to test cut paper, it's mediocre.

You could be over-polishing the edge.

Some steels cut better, and 'feel' sharper, with a rougher edge. That said, the rougher edge won't last as long, before requiring sharpening, as a higher polished edge even if the polished edge doesn't 'feel' as sharp. Sorry if this doesn't make sense, I'm having trouble putting the concept into words.
 
I understand. The rough edge loses teeth faster than a smoother refined edge

You said it way better than I :D

This is why I dig my serrated Sebenza so much, the serrations cut packaging and zip ties and such so well, I use the serrated portion more than the plain edge but it's nice to know it's there if I do need to make a clean cut in something.
 
one of my sebenzas has a razors edge and its a btch to maintain. I have no trouble with the factory edge with a SM though.
 
I have a large regular is s30v that I had a really hard time getting a sharp edge on just like the op. I only have a SM.

I'm not sure what I did but it's sharp now. I wasn't going to sent to CRK or Richard j and spent $25-$30 to get it sharpened.

It was really frustrating for a while.
 
I understand. The rough edge loses teeth faster than a smoother refined edge

Not sure I follow you here ? :confused: A polished well dressed edge lasts for a very short time, a toothy less refined edge cuts for ever. I'm a big fan of the toothy edge my self because it just cuts, cuts and cuts. :thumbup:

I use a blue DMT stone and a piece of leather with green compound. I can get the knife back to popping hair and easily slicing light weight paper in literally a couple of minutes. :)
 
Not sure I follow you here ? :confused: A polished well dressed edge lasts for a very short time, a toothy less refined edge cuts for ever. I'm a big fan of the toothy edge my self because it just cuts, cuts and cuts. :thumbup:

I use a blue DMT stone and a piece of leather with green compound. I can get the knife back to popping hair and easily slicing light weight paper in literally a couple of minutes. :)
So you go from the coarse stone to stropping?
 
So you go from the coarse stone to stropping?

To be fair, it's a well used blue DMT so it's probably closer to medium, but yes. :) I worked for most of my life as a forester so my idea of how to sharpen a user knife is down to pure practicality, I just need my knife to cut stuff. :thumbup:

This is literally all I use to sharpen my CRKs.....

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I use a blue DMT stone and a piece of leather with green compound. I can get the knife back to popping hair and easily slicing light weight paper in literally a couple of minutes. :)


I do something similar if I need to actually sharpen, otherwise I strop after use. Love that green compound.
 
I have no problems with my SM and I'm very satisfied withit. It's simple, light, does not take up much space and can sharpen almost everything.
 
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