Sharpening for Dummies

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Nov 17, 2011
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174
Seriously...

I've never been proficient at sharpening, I've tried everything from diamond stones to these little pull through deals for $10, and even a work sharp. With the diamond stone I didn't accomplish anything but scratches on my blade, the pull through sharpeners work ok but the edge doesn't last long and I hate to admit it but I just totally screwed up a beater knife with my worksharp.

What do I need in order to put a decent edge on a knife that is idiot proof?
 
People are gonna say Sharpmaker and Edge Pro/Wicked Edge. I can't personally recommend one because I just use stones, but those are going to be the most recommended.

P.S.- Once you get your knives cutting OK, get a strop. It won't make a dull knife sharp, but it will make a sharp knife much, much sharper.
 
I personally have loved my Sharpmaker. The benefit to it is, as long as you don't get the diamonds stones right away, the fact that the mediums and fines don't remove much steel means it's hard to truly ruin a blade while practicing. It may take a few blades to get used to it, but once you have the technique down, it's a simple, repetitive, and almost meditative type of sharpening.
 
People are gonna say Sharpmaker and Edge Pro/Wicked Edge. I can't personally recommend one because I just use stones, but those are going to be the most recommended.

P.S.- Once you get your knives cutting OK, get a strop. It won't make a dull knife sharp, but it will make a sharp knife much, much sharper.

You called it. My next step is to move to some sort of plain benchstones.
 
You need a guided system. The most basic starts with the Lansky. They're fairly inexpensive. It has different degree slots to choose from, a guide rod, a holder and the different stones. It also comes with instructions for the different angles and stone use. I have used one for years and recently purchased a KME system which is a better controlled system IMO. You also need a leather strop to help with the burr removal. Before I sharpen a blade, I mark the edge with a sharpie and get the right angle by removing the sharpie markings with the stone. You will experience edge roll when first start out. Don't be discouraged, it happens to everyone. Be sure to watch videos of whatever system you choose, there are a ton of them out there to learn from.
 
Whatever you choose STOP using the pull through sharpeners. They are taking years of use off your edge each time!!!
 
I think the Lansky, GATCO, or DMT Aligner will work well for you. The Sharpmaker might, but often doesn't match factory bevel angles. Of those, I'd probably go with the Aligner because the clamp grips the knife well and is easier to resharpen (if you buy one, you'll see what I mean).
 
I personnaly have been free hand sharpening since very early age. Few year ago I have purchased DMT Diafold system and I can tell you I have not looked back since. Give it a try
 
As far as freehand goes, I never had luck with a traditional edge leading stroke for the most part. I discovered a few years ago, about circular, scrubbing motions on a stone, and for me, that actually allowed me to get a decent freehand edge relatively quickly. Might be worth checking out without investing anything extra but more time in your existing equipment.
 
There really is no foolproof method. Everything takes a certain amount of practice and finesse. The clamping systems seem to be the closest to what you're looking for, but even they require some trial and error, tweaking, and familiarity to avoid unpleasant results. The Lansky, DMT, etc. work fine, though I personally prefer the KME, as it's built more nicely and is more flexible and tweakable for each person's specific needs/desires. I've had mine about a year now, and I still occasionally get a wider bevel on one side due to my not making sure the blade is in the clamp perfectly straight, or I end up with a really wide bevel at the tip because I clamped too far back on the blade (causing a shallower angle near the tip), so like I said, even these devices have a certain learning curve and are not forgiving of user carelessness or ignorance. You can still screw up a blade in a hurry with one if you use it incorrectly. :grumpy: Ask me how I know...:D
 
When I free hand I lead with spine of the blade with canted tip to ricasso movement. It opposite of what I found most people do. It is all in practice and consistancy and some more consistency. You get the point
 
My suggestion would be to go to the stickies at the top of this thread and read about sharpening before you spend any more money on another system. You've already tried a bunch of different methods, so maybe it's time to work on the sharpen-er before having another go at the sharpening system. There are also some excellent books and videos online about how to sharpen any kind of blade or steel that you'll run across.Get a picture in your mind of what is supposed to happen when you sharpen a knife and then figure out the best way for you to make that happen. It'll be different with everyone.

Stones are good. I can and do sharpen some of my knives freehand. The Sharpmaker is good and quick. I use that a lot. I've also used Edge Pros, DMT guided systems, and a bunch of others. I've even used sandpaper. Any of those will work if you have an idea of what needs to be accomplished on your edge to make it sharp. You might even want to get a magnifier of some kind to enlarge the edge when you're looking at it. Loupes are popular, small lighted craft magnifiers are popular... I use a large lighted magnifier that seamstresses or craft people would use. It's very handy to be able to see fine details along the edge of your blade that you might not see just eyeballing it.

Then get a couple of cheap throw-away knives for practice. Make them sharp and then move on to your better ones.
 
I also suggest watching youtube videos...lots of good information.
It's all about technique and sticking with it until you develop correct muscle memory for the motion required.
As has been said start with an inexpensive knife, or one you've already sharpened with little luck and begin the process.
It's not hard but does take practice to develop consistency.
 
As far as freehand goes, I never had luck with a traditional edge leading stroke for the most part. I discovered a few years ago, about circular, scrubbing motions on a stone, and for me, that actually allowed me to get a decent freehand edge relatively quickly. Might be worth checking out without investing anything extra but more time in your existing equipment.

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The edge leading sharpening stroke is the absolutely worst method ever taught to people. It is impossible to maintain a constant angle when you are taking your edge off the stone aftr every stroke. No way.

The circular stroke method is similar to the age old Japanese water stone techniques in that the edge being sharpened does not break contact with the stone until you are ready to work on the other side. I've taught totally newbies to sharpen in just minutes, using a small pocket stone and the small circle method. It's faster more accurate, and can be done on a small piece of almost anything, anywhere.
 
"The edge leading sharpening stroke is the absolutely worst method ever taught to people. It is impossible to maintain a constant angle when you are taking your edge off the stone aftr every stroke. No way. "

I respectfully fully disagree with this statement. To be honest, I don't even know what you mean by edge leading being the worst way. It is called "honing" after all, it was how I was taught to sharpen a knife, and literally millions of sharpening experts use this very simple, age old motion. Taking the edge off the stone after every stroke? I think maybe you are inferring to the perceived inability of the human hand to maintain an angle during sharpening. Well, this human hand can do it quite well, as with anything in life it just takes practice. That is, after all, all we are talking about when it comes to sharpening. If you can just hold your hand at a relatively constant angle, it doesnt really matter what motion you use. All we are doing is removing steel.

I think the circular motion is great....for the coarse grits when a bevel needs to be established or nicks taken out, etc. But when getting down to the finer stones, honing works VERY well, followed by stropping (edge trailing). Practice is all it takes.

I just read this.....preferred or proper. I think a LOT of sharpening beliefs fall into preferred, and very little being proper. Creating a burr.....I would say proper. Keeping a constant angle (relative here....we aren't robots)....proper. Circle vs stroke....prefer. You get the idea!

I highly recommend people not using those guided systems, and learning free hand. That way you will be able to sharpen anything, anywhere, anytime, on whatever. The razor edge systems honing guides are GREAT. They offer two sizes, and between the two sizes and placement on the blade, just about any knife can be sharpened at any angle (you would need to use a bit of trig, sin, to figure out the angle you want and then place the guide to where that angle is produced). Once you get the basics down with those clamp on guides, removing them to do it free hand is very easy. I say that....I assume it would stand the test. I've been sharpening free hand since both grandfathers taught me at a young age.

I will say this, the edge (cosmetically) is very pretty using guided systems. However, the inability of the human hand to hold an EXACT angle every single stroke causes the edge to have a slight radius to it, differing from a perfectly flat bevel from guided systems. This tear drop shape being like the way samurai swords were made, the cutting medium being separated away from the edge as the blade is pushed thru the material. Like a Moran edge, if you will.

Sharpening is a topic that people are very passionate about, me included. My respect goes out to you all here. I just couldn't jive with that statement on leading edge strokes being the worst method ever. Works pretty darn well for me and millions of others.

I just read this.....proper vs preferred. I think a lot of sharping can fall into one or the other. I would say keeping a constant angle (relatively speaking...we aren't robots and an edge doesn't have to be perfectly dead nutz flat) is proper. But circular vs stroke....prefer. You get the idea!
 
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I have the lansky system, and honestly, I hate it. I can't get anything sharp with it... I am probably just retarded.

I also have a ken onion work sharp... nope, the guide system seems like a gymic to me, so I think it is really just an over priced belt sander. I should really sell both these systems.

What works for ME is the Idahone system. You thin your edge to 15 degrees on course rods, similar to the spyderco sharpmaker in execution, but then you finish and hone the final edge at 22.5 degrees with fine rods. This takes a lot of the mistakes out, and allows some degree of variance.

For my larger chopper blades, I talked to Idahone, and they were very helpful. I am going to send it to them, and they are going to drill some new slots for me at 20 degrees, so that I can keep my factory edge, and still finish it off with the 22.5 degree final edge.
 
"The edge leading sharpening stroke is the absolutely worst method ever taught to people. It is impossible to maintain a constant angle when you are taking your edge off the stone aftr every stroke. No way. "

I respectfully fully disagree with this statement.

I have to agree with your disagreement. The thing circular sharpening really does (IMHO) is encourage one to use a smaller mechanical motion. I tried circular a few years back and was surprised at well it worked. Ground a very flat edge in very short order, and was able to overlay that edge with a small number of edge leading passes to get the grind "teeth" the angle I like. After a bit of thought, I tried a scrubbing method again, but this time restricted myself to the dimensions used on the circular grind - the equivalent of a one or two inch pass. Lo and behold my edges were very flat and ground nicely in very short order.

Just my opinion, and I'm not saying circular is any better or worse in a general sense than a leading pass, but what makes it so useful is the constraints it places on ones mechanics. I'd be willing to bet if folks used a circle the size of the bottom of a coffee cup instead of a quarter or dollar, they wouldn't be too thrilled with the effect.

Generally I use a scrubbing fore and aft pass to set the bevel and refine etc, but I use a short leading pass to deburr and it works fine for holding the angle.
 
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The edge leading sharpening stroke is the absolutely worst method ever taught to people. It is impossible to maintain a constant angle when you are taking your edge off the stone aftr every stroke. No way.
(...)

I do think it may be the most incorrectly interpreted instruction ever (often by the folks doing the 'teaching' of the technique). The edge-leading method itself, if done correctly, is no issue at all. Doing it correctly means maintaining the bevels flush to the stone, immediately tangent to a point that will become the new, crisp & sharp apex, and not scrubbing directly into the existing apex itself. Feeling for flush bevel contact comes with practice and experience, which obviously won't happen unless one does actually commit to practicing it. Variation in angle is inevitable in any freehand stroke; the key is to keep the variation above the apex (on the bevels), and not on the apex itself. I think of it as 'sneaking up' on the apex with each successive stroke, without undoing the good results at the apex created in previous strokes. And when the apex does get 'touched', it must be done with featherlight pressure. If that's done while still maintaining flush bevel contact, the only possible result is an apex that will be a little thinner and sharper than on the previous pass.

I do positively HATE the oft-accompanying recommendation to 'slice into the stone' on every stroke. That inevitably leads to rotating the apex into the stone, in order to 'slice into' it. If done as such, the apex gets scrubbed off, and on the next pass, the blade must be rotated higher in angle to meet the 'new' apex. End result is always an apex angle that's much too wide, or rounded off, or both. This is something that used to drive me nuts, when I was still trying to figure it out; I was very, very good at creating consistently rounded edges, until I did.

I do like a circular/elliptical or back & forth stroke for setting bevels. Initially, I liked it because it does make it easier to maintain angle; now I prefer it mainly just because the 'scrubbing' technique is so much faster at metal removal. Edge-leading is what I still prefer for the finishing touches, in setting up the grind lines for the 'bite' in the edge.


David
 
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Metal removal is metal removal , circles are faster, but nothing wrong with stropping strokes if it helps you, no technique is set in stone (corny as hell I know) but hell if your keeping the angle right do whatever motion works best , freehand can be downright frustrating , but the time is worth the aquired skill to have your edge on your knife your way , and the more you do it the better you get (insert that's what she said), and eventually the skies the limit as to how sharp your knives will be.
 
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