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Sharpening s30v Question
- Thread starter THE_LONGBOW
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David Martin
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Longbow,The Sharpmaker is very slow on sharpening vanadium steels.If you can get the diamond coated sticks to insert in the wooden block holes.After stroking on those then go to the ceramic for finishing.I think you'll like the results.DM
jb4570
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Sorry LB,
I do not have a sharpmaker so I can't give you any tips. However, I use a Lansky set up and it is a very simple task to put a sharp edge on any blade I have. I was worried it would not work well with the S30V steel as I do not have the diamond hones. But, the standard hones works just fine. Note I do use the table clamp set up (sold separately).
jb4570
I do not have a sharpmaker so I can't give you any tips. However, I use a Lansky set up and it is a very simple task to put a sharp edge on any blade I have. I was worried it would not work well with the S30V steel as I do not have the diamond hones. But, the standard hones works just fine. Note I do use the table clamp set up (sold separately).
jb4570
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It's only slow if you have serious reprofiling to do. That's where the diamond sticks some in handy.
How dull is your S30V knife? As a rule of thumb I don't like letting specialty steels go very dull because of how long it takes to get them back to an acceptable level of sharpness.
Pack Rat
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It's been a while, but either CJ or Joe chimed in here once about this.
Referencing the Lansky Clamp, they basically said to get your edge on the S30V with the coarse diamond hone, and then finish it off with the medium hone. Not going to the fine hone.
Thats basically how I have done my premium steel blades since then, but using an old leather belt and stroping off any burrs.
bottom line is, none of us do it exactly the same and you have to get your own edge, using your own methods.
S30V takes a little more patience. But I found that the diamond does speed it up some.
and I believe it was CJ that mentioned something to the effect that you need to know when to stop. You can get the edge, but remove it if you keep on.
Referencing the Lansky Clamp, they basically said to get your edge on the S30V with the coarse diamond hone, and then finish it off with the medium hone. Not going to the fine hone.
Thats basically how I have done my premium steel blades since then, but using an old leather belt and stroping off any burrs.
bottom line is, none of us do it exactly the same and you have to get your own edge, using your own methods.
S30V takes a little more patience. But I found that the diamond does speed it up some.
and I believe it was CJ that mentioned something to the effect that you need to know when to stop. You can get the edge, but remove it if you keep on.
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David Martin
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Bow, Before getting a Lansky try some coarse sticks then go to the fine and see if that gives you a better edge.You already like the Sharpmaker and are familar w/ it.Perhaps an additional stick would do the trick.DM
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How long? Seems to only take seconds on a grinder.
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I don't use a grinder.
If I ever switched to a powered system it'd be paper wheels. Currently I use the sharpmaker after trying the Lansky system and another croc stick setup.
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The trick to the Sharpmaker, with any steel, is to not let the knife get too dull. The Sharpmaker, as wonderful a tool as it is, it better at keeping a knife sharp than it is at sharpening a dull knife.
Not the best picture in the world, but there's the mirror finish I put on an S30V blade with the Sharpmaker tonight. For what it's worth, I haven't ever touched that knife with the medium stones. I just touch it up every several days and it'll shave hair with no effort.
Try the magic marker trick to make sure you're hitting the edge and not taking steel off the shoulder.
Keep at it.
Not the best picture in the world, but there's the mirror finish I put on an S30V blade with the Sharpmaker tonight. For what it's worth, I haven't ever touched that knife with the medium stones. I just touch it up every several days and it'll shave hair with no effort.
Try the magic marker trick to make sure you're hitting the edge and not taking steel off the shoulder.
Keep at it.
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Pack Rat
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Good question. I have long said that I would like to see Buck, Lansky, Sharpmaker, Gatco, and any of the others and set up sharpeners specific to Buck's edge.
On the back cardboard of a clammie 110, buck says 35 to 50 degree on the edge.
With the edge 2000 change, that is changed to 26 to 32 Degrees.
Based on that, I use the 25 degree angle on the lansky clamp system and it has served me well.
But Al Buck described in a booklet he wrote, about maintaining the same edge consistently. I can't seem to lay my hands on mine right now or I would clarify that more. But in essence...do it the sane way every time.
Thus 300$ comment about switching around on the different sharpeners.
Any new knife I make as a user, I will use the factory edge, if new, until it goes dull.
Then I will spend as long as it takes to reprofile it on the lansky clamp in order to be able to more quickly sharpen it up the next time it goes dull. I won't even let the son in law sharpen mine, even tho he is well trained on the lansky system
jb4570
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edbeau,
With the table clamp I can use it just about any where I go. I like it because it frees up my hands so I can keep the angle true as 300 talks about "keeping the V true". I can also apply more pressure on the hone, this makes it faster to get a nice edge:thumbup:.
jb4570
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We may be talking two different clamps here.
The clamp that holds the blade, and the clamp that attaches to a table to set the blade clamp in.
JB,,,Son in Law took one of those cheaper plastic stands and screwed it to a 2x4 so he wouldn't have to hold it down.
Saw them at Academy today for less than 4 bucks. The metal one was less than 7. and saw a basic three diamond hone system for $40. May be regular price,,,donno, just thought I gave more for my diamonds.
The clamp that holds the blade, and the clamp that attaches to a table to set the blade clamp in.
JB,,,Son in Law took one of those cheaper plastic stands and screwed it to a 2x4 so he wouldn't have to hold it down.
Saw them at Academy today for less than 4 bucks. The metal one was less than 7. and saw a basic three diamond hone system for $40. May be regular price,,,donno, just thought I gave more for my diamonds.
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jb4570
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I was talking about the metal C clamp attachment for the lansky system. This way I don't have to tote a 2X4 around
. $40 for the diamond set is a great price. The standard 3 diamond hone set is about $60 and the delux 5 diamond hone set is about $75. No Academy here
. jb4570
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Goodness Buck110, I am gonna have to disagree with a lot of what you are saying here.
I think it has already been said that maintaining the same angle, however you do it, is the key.
No argument on re profiling a new blade to YOUR angle either. But this is going to take more than a few minutes the first time. Sure, after that it goes much quicker.
But to say that the clamp/crock systems are worthless,,,well that is a real stretch.
What works for you using bench stones and moving the blade across it, absolutely does not work for me, but I would never say it is worthless because it works for so many of you.
I can not maintain the same angle as I rotate the blade to reverse direction. I have tried on and off over the last 54 years that I have played with knives. Not saying that one won't get sharp, I just don't achieve the same degree of sharpness.
So with a blade clamped in say the lansky clamp, and using what ever angle one likes in the guide holes, I can get the sharpness that I want. The difference is as simple as moving the stone, or hone, across the blade edge instead of the blade across the stone.
Like you can do with a stone, I can get the same exact angle on both sides of the blade.
And like you said about your combination stone, The hones on the lansky come in different flavors, as do the stones.
For some, the crock sticks are fast and easy. Great, again personal preference and ease of use, and what ever works for you. I have a couple sets of those as well, but for fine work, I still use the lansky.
Yes, I have intermixed using a set of Lansky crock sticks that supposedly have the same angle set as what I use on the lansky guide/clamp. And have good luck doing that, mainly out in the field as needed for a fast touch up.
I reference the lansky because that is the one I have used for the last 30 plus years or more. There are several others that I am sure are as good.
Will go on to say that I just finished reprofiling an OLD 105 (would a 2 line inverted be 440?) that had vastly different angles on the left and right sides of the blade. It was typical of what used to happen to me as I tried to use a bench stone.
It took quiet a while even using the diamond hones on the lansky to finally get both edges looking the same.
Maybe everybody else in the world can maintain exact edges on a bench stone, again, I cannot.
And, putting say a 110 in a lansky clamp, using say the 25 degree angle, in my mind, becomes a no brainer that I do not have to concentrate on maintaining any angles, It does that for me.
Then, one of my lanskys lives in my back pack and when I get really bored out in a deer stand, out comes the sharpener and touching up any dull blades.
Deer stand, hunting, another whole other thread, again, what works for some, doesn't work for others.
A point in all of this, you have to learn what works for you. Won't be any one quick and easy method. But don't discount any one method as being worthless.
just my 2 centavos worth....
I think it has already been said that maintaining the same angle, however you do it, is the key.
No argument on re profiling a new blade to YOUR angle either. But this is going to take more than a few minutes the first time. Sure, after that it goes much quicker.
But to say that the clamp/crock systems are worthless,,,well that is a real stretch.
What works for you using bench stones and moving the blade across it, absolutely does not work for me, but I would never say it is worthless because it works for so many of you.
I can not maintain the same angle as I rotate the blade to reverse direction. I have tried on and off over the last 54 years that I have played with knives. Not saying that one won't get sharp, I just don't achieve the same degree of sharpness.
So with a blade clamped in say the lansky clamp, and using what ever angle one likes in the guide holes, I can get the sharpness that I want. The difference is as simple as moving the stone, or hone, across the blade edge instead of the blade across the stone.
Like you can do with a stone, I can get the same exact angle on both sides of the blade.
And like you said about your combination stone, The hones on the lansky come in different flavors, as do the stones.
For some, the crock sticks are fast and easy. Great, again personal preference and ease of use, and what ever works for you. I have a couple sets of those as well, but for fine work, I still use the lansky.
Yes, I have intermixed using a set of Lansky crock sticks that supposedly have the same angle set as what I use on the lansky guide/clamp. And have good luck doing that, mainly out in the field as needed for a fast touch up.
I reference the lansky because that is the one I have used for the last 30 plus years or more. There are several others that I am sure are as good.
Will go on to say that I just finished reprofiling an OLD 105 (would a 2 line inverted be 440?) that had vastly different angles on the left and right sides of the blade. It was typical of what used to happen to me as I tried to use a bench stone.
It took quiet a while even using the diamond hones on the lansky to finally get both edges looking the same.
Maybe everybody else in the world can maintain exact edges on a bench stone, again, I cannot.
And, putting say a 110 in a lansky clamp, using say the 25 degree angle, in my mind, becomes a no brainer that I do not have to concentrate on maintaining any angles, It does that for me.
Then, one of my lanskys lives in my back pack and when I get really bored out in a deer stand, out comes the sharpener and touching up any dull blades.
Deer stand, hunting, another whole other thread, again, what works for some, doesn't work for others.
A point in all of this, you have to learn what works for you. Won't be any one quick and easy method. But don't discount any one method as being worthless.
just my 2 centavos worth....