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Sharpening s30v Question
- Thread starter THE_LONGBOW
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...When I do my S30V Bucks I jus' go out in the yard and ask the lil' lady to turn the crank...
Cool pic DR. D. I grandfather had one of those in his yard too.
Thanks for shairing.:thumbup:
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- Oct 28, 2005
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Any premium steels that are dull, I'll pull out one of the big Norton oilstones, a jum-3 or 4. The Spyderco sharpmaker is great for keeping a sharp edge sharp, as are the Buck diamond stones.
Darryl, if I had a BIG wet stone and a willin wife...I'd use'm
Darryl, if I had a BIG wet stone and a willin wife...I'd use'm
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Darryl, if I had a BIG wet stone and a willin wife...I'd use'm
...Scott, If I really had a BIG wet stone like that and a "WILLING" wife...I'd get rid of the wet stone...
...
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Well here's some pic's of the stones.....you figure what the Mrs. told me
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- Joined
- Apr 19, 2005
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- 5,533
I agree with everyone to some degree........my two and half cents.
Folks who can sharpen on a stone should, if they want too. Folks who can't or don't want to take the time to learn should use an 'aid'. I am sorry but I can't say stone it is the only way to go because it isn't. Also there is big difference between big blades and little blades sharpening. I cautioned about the angle because people were talking about having two or three different kinds of 'aids', who knows what angle.
My nephew is a professional butcher in Ft. Worth and specializes in game butchering. He goes out to Ted Turners NM Ranch and butchers 'clients' game. I have never observed him stone a big knife only uses steels. His pocket knife is one of those non-Buck brands I think the initials are MM. It has a strong bevel and he flat stones the bevel angle. So he being professional knife man is no example for us common folk.
I am a Lansky man also, though I favor 20 degrees for my smaller 300 blades. I am a 'aid' sharpener because I want to be, I appreciate stone sharpeners for their patience and skills. I can do a fair stone job but just don't want too on most edges. I have a motorized wet wheel that I will use on "BIG" knifes, chisels and hatchets.
With my Lansky I can make a sharp, mirror edge that works and looks pretty and pretty quick. I don't think the Lansky is best for long-big blades, I will use a crock stick for them. If its a hunting knife you best not test it with your thumb. With my EDC you might escape uncut.
Sharpen as you please just don't waste good metal making mistakes.......300Bucks
Folks who can sharpen on a stone should, if they want too. Folks who can't or don't want to take the time to learn should use an 'aid'. I am sorry but I can't say stone it is the only way to go because it isn't. Also there is big difference between big blades and little blades sharpening. I cautioned about the angle because people were talking about having two or three different kinds of 'aids', who knows what angle.
My nephew is a professional butcher in Ft. Worth and specializes in game butchering. He goes out to Ted Turners NM Ranch and butchers 'clients' game. I have never observed him stone a big knife only uses steels. His pocket knife is one of those non-Buck brands I think the initials are MM. It has a strong bevel and he flat stones the bevel angle. So he being professional knife man is no example for us common folk.
I am a Lansky man also, though I favor 20 degrees for my smaller 300 blades. I am a 'aid' sharpener because I want to be, I appreciate stone sharpeners for their patience and skills. I can do a fair stone job but just don't want too on most edges. I have a motorized wet wheel that I will use on "BIG" knifes, chisels and hatchets.
With my Lansky I can make a sharp, mirror edge that works and looks pretty and pretty quick. I don't think the Lansky is best for long-big blades, I will use a crock stick for them. If its a hunting knife you best not test it with your thumb. With my EDC you might escape uncut.
Sharpen as you please just don't waste good metal making mistakes.......300Bucks
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David Martin
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When reprofiling or sharpening a very dull knife I enjoy using my Norton JUM 3.On the coarse side it doesn't take long to work up a burr.Then I'll go on to some finer grit Norton India stones.Perhaps ending around 800-900 grit and stropping.Depending on what I'm going to use it for.This level does well on cutting meat.If I want to demo sharpness and shave my face for observers. I'll work the edge some on my Spyderco xx-fine ceramic stone and strop.To get a new level but this is just an extreme example.DM
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Interesting read. Good basis for opinions on all sides.
My 3 Pesos. The guided systems (Lansky, Sharpmaker) are useful for quick touch ups. Another benefit of these systems to one new to sharpening is repeated use gives you a good visual on what the angle degree looks like. This makes the move to bench stones a lot easier.
There is something very therapeutic about sitting down with bench stones, a good bottle of whiskey (in moderation of course) and feeling the edge come to life. Being able to raise a hair splitting edge after 30 minutes on the stones is satisfying to me. Not only does it sharpen my knives, it helps clear the mind of unwanted clutter.
That said, for the ultimate quick sharp, the paper wheels are my choice of attack. But without learning the proper edge angle via the guided systems, bench stones and the wheels are only as good as the operator's abilities to hold the proper angle.
My 3 Pesos. The guided systems (Lansky, Sharpmaker) are useful for quick touch ups. Another benefit of these systems to one new to sharpening is repeated use gives you a good visual on what the angle degree looks like. This makes the move to bench stones a lot easier.
There is something very therapeutic about sitting down with bench stones, a good bottle of whiskey (in moderation of course) and feeling the edge come to life. Being able to raise a hair splitting edge after 30 minutes on the stones is satisfying to me. Not only does it sharpen my knives, it helps clear the mind of unwanted clutter.
That said, for the ultimate quick sharp, the paper wheels are my choice of attack. But without learning the proper edge angle via the guided systems, bench stones and the wheels are only as good as the operator's abilities to hold the proper angle.
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- Mar 16, 2005
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So how hard is it to sharpen Bucks S30V?
Hows the edge-holding, any chipping/brittleness problems?
I like Buck's 420HC and for my non-bucks i used a lot of carbon steel.
I'm trying to track down a Vantage Pro S30V, if the steel is too finicky i might get the Sandvick or 420HC versions instead.
I mostly use a Spyderco Sharpmaker for my sharpening.
Hows the edge-holding, any chipping/brittleness problems?
I like Buck's 420HC and for my non-bucks i used a lot of carbon steel.
I'm trying to track down a Vantage Pro S30V, if the steel is too finicky i might get the Sandvick or 420HC versions instead.
I mostly use a Spyderco Sharpmaker for my sharpening.
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wow a lot of comment here!
i, like 110 had to learn to sharpen as part of a job as a teenager
to shave hair off the arm was jest a starting to get sharp
like SPX there is some very satisfying and zen like
to using bench stones.. and good whiskey ..
one should learn to sharpen free-handed .. but
if not then guided stones like lansky are great to "set" the edge for future sharpening
the stones 110 says of i have heard only good things of!
crock sticks of any kind i feel are like a steel and only good for touch up..
and every one should know that there are two kinds of extremely sharp
shaving and meat cutting..
AL both commented on this a number of times according to Chuck
and two kinds of edges :
extremely sharp as above
and working like i always used in construction..
for working edge knives and my wood working tools
i use 1000+ grit wet sand paper and a piece of plate glass..
this place is all about what works for each of us and to
provide a place to discuss them and
perhaps to try out some thing new to us
oh and yes s30v takes a good bit longer if you let it get dull
freshen up is about the same.
440c three dots were best over all for general use
i highly recommen this one year combo
440c with Bos heat treat!!!
now watch 3 dot bucks go up in price
i, like 110 had to learn to sharpen as part of a job as a teenager
to shave hair off the arm was jest a starting to get sharp
like SPX there is some very satisfying and zen like
to using bench stones.. and good whiskey ..
one should learn to sharpen free-handed .. but
if not then guided stones like lansky are great to "set" the edge for future sharpening
the stones 110 says of i have heard only good things of!
crock sticks of any kind i feel are like a steel and only good for touch up..
and every one should know that there are two kinds of extremely sharp
shaving and meat cutting..
AL both commented on this a number of times according to Chuck
and two kinds of edges :
extremely sharp as above
and working like i always used in construction..
for working edge knives and my wood working tools
i use 1000+ grit wet sand paper and a piece of plate glass..
this place is all about what works for each of us and to
provide a place to discuss them and
perhaps to try out some thing new to us
oh and yes s30v takes a good bit longer if you let it get dull
freshen up is about the same.
440c three dots were best over all for general use
i highly recommen this one year combo
440c with Bos heat treat!!!
now watch 3 dot bucks go up in price
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- Feb 26, 2007
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- 566
Love that ole wet stone picture, I remember a neighbor that had one of those.
You're exactly right Dave, shaving and meat cutting require two different blade angles...
Once you learn how to sharpen with a wet stone, or oil stone, you'll never go back to clamp systems. I realize that for production work you'd need more automation...
I had posted this a while back, I do use a diamond rod for a quick field sharpening, for all other work I use this... and it will sharpen s30v steel. This set came with a fine washita stone, that I use when I want a killer edge (so to speak
(picture of Dave's old rubber bucky, too
Woody
You're exactly right Dave, shaving and meat cutting require two different blade angles...
Once you learn how to sharpen with a wet stone, or oil stone, you'll never go back to clamp systems. I realize that for production work you'd need more automation...
I had posted this a while back, I do use a diamond rod for a quick field sharpening, for all other work I use this... and it will sharpen s30v steel. This set came with a fine washita stone, that I use when I want a killer edge (so to speak
(picture of Dave's old rubber bucky, too
Woody
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- Jun 29, 1999
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S30V responds well to diamond hones.
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- May 6, 2004
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Love that ole wet stone picture, I remember a neighbor that had one of those.
Once you learn how to sharpen with a wet stone, or oil stone, you'll never go back to clamp systems. I realize that for production work you'd need more automation...
I had posted this a while back, I do use a diamond rod for a quick field sharpening, for all other work I use this... and it will sharpen s30v steel.
(picture of Dave's old rubber bucky, too
Woody
man every time i see picts of one of thoes i kick my self fo it not looking better
got a new one i am working on..
i have the samll set and i have a set of buck bench tri stones !
have not used the tri-stones as yet..
tempted ,,, real tempted...
they were an investment to have as part of a display i thought of ...
once...
David Martin
Moderator
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Mainewoodsman,Thanks.I do have a Blade Masters clamp system but rarely use it.It works--I guess my brain and stones connect.Heck,I even have grinding wheels w/ grits up to 1000.Those will do it quick and are not forgiving. Theres many different ways to run around the mountain. As long as we all end up at the big oak tree by sunset were fine.
Oliver,Buck has dialed in the correct heat treatment for S30V.No chipping or brittleness that I've noticed.Like some here I use mine.It seems you need a little more effort to sharpen it than 440C. But using the right equipment and not allowing it to become really dull is the key.With your Sharpmaker do you have the diamond rods? This helps with the vanadium steels.You should get one and try it.If you don't like it someone will take it off your hands.
Oliver,Buck has dialed in the correct heat treatment for S30V.No chipping or brittleness that I've noticed.Like some here I use mine.It seems you need a little more effort to sharpen it than 440C. But using the right equipment and not allowing it to become really dull is the key.With your Sharpmaker do you have the diamond rods? This helps with the vanadium steels.You should get one and try it.If you don't like it someone will take it off your hands.
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Dave, don't be too hard on yerself -- that was an excellent user! It stood up well to my "abuse" - lol
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Always enjoy reading these threads, so much info. After getting into quality knives fairly recently, I find that with S30V and 154CM I can:
Get it hair shaving sharp freehand with DMT diamond hones, do touch ups with honesteel or a ceramic rod, but it takes a little time and attention, which isn't a bad thing of course.
Get it hair shaving sharp much faster and easier with Sharpmaker/Lansky croc sticks if it wasn't real dull to begin with AND the main bevel is compatible with the 40 or 50 degree (Lansky crocs have holes set to 50 inclusive) preset angles of the sharpeners. Yes, even S30V works great with crock sticks, my Native sees them regularly.
If an S30V or any other knife I have that I want to use has a main bevel over 50 degrees inclusive, I bring out my APEX and bring it back down to something like 36-38 degrees inclusive, the exact angle isn't so important, just so that its acute enough to work with my croc sticks/Sharpmaker, but not so acute that it weakens the edge for harder use, although if you just want a fine work slicer, go thinner. I like freehand sharpening and am not bad at it, but it just takes me more time where with a knife compatible with the crock sticks I can just take a few swipes when I notice its getting a little dull and it will shave hair again without much effort. Even if I'm tired or a little rushed, my croc sticks will do a great job as long as I hold the knife vertical, which I can do. I don't have to clamp or set guides, dig out oil, use water ect. That Lansky wooden croc set with two fine and two med sticks is just so handy and convenient that I usually have it set up on my kitchen cupboard. They are not for the guy that lets his knives get really dull, but I don't do that so they work great for me. Just my two cents.
Get it hair shaving sharp freehand with DMT diamond hones, do touch ups with honesteel or a ceramic rod, but it takes a little time and attention, which isn't a bad thing of course.
Get it hair shaving sharp much faster and easier with Sharpmaker/Lansky croc sticks if it wasn't real dull to begin with AND the main bevel is compatible with the 40 or 50 degree (Lansky crocs have holes set to 50 inclusive) preset angles of the sharpeners. Yes, even S30V works great with crock sticks, my Native sees them regularly.
If an S30V or any other knife I have that I want to use has a main bevel over 50 degrees inclusive, I bring out my APEX and bring it back down to something like 36-38 degrees inclusive, the exact angle isn't so important, just so that its acute enough to work with my croc sticks/Sharpmaker, but not so acute that it weakens the edge for harder use, although if you just want a fine work slicer, go thinner. I like freehand sharpening and am not bad at it, but it just takes me more time where with a knife compatible with the crock sticks I can just take a few swipes when I notice its getting a little dull and it will shave hair again without much effort. Even if I'm tired or a little rushed, my croc sticks will do a great job as long as I hold the knife vertical, which I can do. I don't have to clamp or set guides, dig out oil, use water ect. That Lansky wooden croc set with two fine and two med sticks is just so handy and convenient that I usually have it set up on my kitchen cupboard. They are not for the guy that lets his knives get really dull, but I don't do that so they work great for me. Just my two cents.
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Irrelevant
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David Martin
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Longbow,What was the total amount of time put in during the 3 sessions? Did you have the diamond rods? Try a stone of your choice atleast 2x6 w/ a guide.In the mean time use the knife cutting thumb size hardwood limbs to get it dull again.Then let us know how this works.DM