Sharpening Spyderco Paramilitary 2, need help

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mkjellgren said:
Watch the dvd included with the sharpmaker, then watch it again. Sal from Spyderco explains very clearly in a soothing voice exactly how to use it. Stop worrying so much, the sharpmaker is an incredibly easy sharpening system to use. You're WAY over thinking this. The bevel is simply what you probably call the edge. Setting a 30°inclusive bevel with a 40° microbevel just means that the visible "edge" that you have on your knife is at 30° and you have then sharpened or touched up your edge very lightly at 40°. It really isn't that complicated. Your pm2 probably has a factory edge (bevel) angle of around 30°. It doesn't matter if it's 28° or 32°, just sharpen at 40° to start with. After you have sharpened your knife a few times at 40° you will notice it will start to take longer and longer to sharpen each time. This is because you are effectively widening your 40° bevel requiring you to remove more metal each time. When you start to notice the 40° setting beginning to be less effective simply make 50 or so passes on each side on the 30° setting with each set of rods. This will knock the "shoulders " down a bit which will allow you to more easily reach the edge on the 40° setting. All of this will be explained in better words than my own in the dvd.
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You clearly didn't watch the DVD. Using the 40 degree setting on a 30 degree edge will remove a ton of metal. The 40 degree setting is made to back bevel so that you can then move to the 30 degree setting.
 
Murdamook said:
You clearly didn't watch the DVD. Using the 40 degree setting on a 30 degree edge will remove a ton of metal. The 40 degree setting is made to back bevel so that you can then move to the 30 degree setting.
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Think about what you just said...It made literally zero sense...

Sharpening on 40° will thicken the very edge of the bevel, not "back-bevel". Using the 40° will make the 30° setting even less effective. Sharpening on 30° prior to 40° will knock down the shoulder of the bevel allowing the apex of the edge to be more easily contacted by the stones.

I suggest you both reread my post as well as rewatch your dvd. Either that or brush up on your general sharpening concepts...
 
Murdamook said:
You clearly didn't watch the DVD. Using the 40 degree setting on a 30 degree edge will remove a ton of metal. The 40 degree setting is made to back bevel so that you can then move to the 30 degree setting.
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You have it backwards :)
 
Sorry for all your headaches and pains! I had all my questions answered, and I didn't have means to watch the dvd earlier. Being relatively new to edcs and knives I had a TON of questions as you can see from this thread. I guess it would be best to let it die now to prevent further cerebral injury.
 
mkjellgren said:
Think about what you just said...It made literally zero sense...

Sharpening on 40° will thicken the very edge of the bevel, not "back-bevel". Using the 40° will make the 30° setting even less effective. Sharpening on 30° prior to 40° will knock down the shoulder of the bevel allowing the apex of the edge to be more easily contacted by the stones.

I suggest you both reread my post as well as rewatch your dvd. Either that or brush up on your general sharpening concepts...
Click to expand...
Rewatched the DVD. Microbevels aren't general knowledge, by the way.
 
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Murdamook said:
Sal stated in the DVD that spyderco factory edges are sharpened at a degree so that you do not need to 40 degree edge guides to back bevel.
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40* is not the back bevel angle. 30* is. Here it is straight from the device itself:

Wy3f1.jpg


wpPA2.jpg


I haven't watched the dvd, but probably what Sal said is Spydercos come at 30*, so you can skip doing the back bevel since it's already at that angle (30*) and jump right to the microbevel/edge at 40*.
 
Only paid members can close a thread, not Registered Users.
I will close the thread, and move it to Maintenance, where it should have been all along.
 
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