Sharpening system: Lansky Deluxe 5 stone or Edge Pro Chinese clone ???

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Dec 27, 2015
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Ok, so I did an extensive research to get a low budget angle sharpening system for beginers and decided to go for either the Lansky deluxe (the 5 stone version) or the apex edge pro chinese clone... I still can't make up my mind on what to get.
I have read absolutely everything about these systems and saw tons of tutorials on youtube.. but I still can't decide what to get. I know the edge pro will have better control over the angle but i'm afraid about the quality of the clone stones and the fact that the edge pro original stones cost a lot. I can get the complete set of the lansky 5 stone with the c clamp, super saphire stone and the leather stropping for 90 euros here in Spain. The equivalent original stones for the edge pro clone would cost more then 200 bucks. Should I get the Lansky or tryout the edge pro clone as it is with the chinese stones and see results.. I have a couple of bechmades with some really tough steel that need reprofiling or resharpening but would first do the exams on a few abused cheap knifes i have...
 
i'm owning the edge pro/copy for about one year now,its there newer version with the suction cup at its base,i have had no problems with this kit and am getting some grate bevels on my knifes,but 1st thing i did is to replace the stock stones that come with this unit and replaced with the real EP-120 though 1000 stones as they will fit nicely in this copy,i also made the pivot and pivot rod that holds the stone a little tighter by using some small washers as to take the slop out! but outside of that it works real well for me,i have heard people having some problems with the lanksky because they have changed the end clamp that holds your blade! and then try to fiend a older version of this clamp!i think its made of steel! any how,that's sort of why i decided to go with the edge/copy,wish you vary good luck.
 
I am in about the same situation you are I can't decide which one either. I have used the lansky and it will not sharpen a short knife from spine to edge with less the a 25 degree angle because the clamp gets in the way. This is the new clamp with the foam insert jaws.
 
Those both sound like bad options to me personally. If it has to be cheap, what about the DMT Magna guide?

Brian.
 
With the new lansky clamp if you clamp with the rubber portion, it's better to hold the knife itself rather than the clamp when sharpening. That way you have less flex and more consistent angle. If the knife is bigger than 5" then the lansky will not work well unless you reposition the clamp along the blade.
 
You know, on ebay, they have generic version of lansky system for about ~$20 ... same as the generic version of edge pro , some reviews say the generic lansky is better than the real lansky

I say go with the cheapest option (ebay with free shipping) :) patent have expired for both systems, even though they didn't have patents in spain (probably)

The most common problem you read about is stones coming unglued ... just glue them back, glue is cheap
You can always order extra stones or diamonds ... with free shipping

OTOH, if you have an abrasive and a stick and a table you can sharpen just as easy as these systems
closer to the edge of a table the higher the angle, the further away from edge of table the lower the angle, easy :)
DSC_00821.jpg
 
The DMT Aligner or Magna-Guide might be better than those. The fake Edge Pro has bad stones and the Lansky has issues (although the old ones were/are pretty good IMO). The Aligner is pretty easy to use if you are a beginner.
 
You can get good or bad results with either of those systems. A lot of it depends on personal preference, the types of knives you want to use them for, understanding the strengths and weaknesses of each system and your ability to work with them / tweak them.

For most pocket knives I prefer the Lansky but unfortunately, the Lansky clamp went through a couple of redesigns throughout the years and in my opinion, only the original design works well.

With any clamp system, in order to get good consistent repeatable results, you need to be able to securely clamp the knife in the exact same position each time you use it. The problems with the different types of Lansky clamps have been discussed before and you can read all about it here: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...hnique-for-EDC-newbie?p=14898206#post14898206

Fortunately, Lansky has learned from their mistakes and listened to the many complaints and brought back the original clamp. This is what they say about it on their website:

"You’ll be happy to know we’ve gone back to the original clamp design that helped make Lansky’s controlled-angle sharpening system so popular! The 2016 clamp is made from durable extruded aluminum and can hold almost any blade. It has notched jaws that provide secure and exact blade handling on almost all blades, including most narrow blades 1/2" wide and under."

So if you should decide for the Lansky, I would recommend buying it directly from them so you can be sure to get the right clamp.

BTW..... the Chinese copied an older version so it comes with a clamp without the notch and I would therefor not recommend it.


The Ruixin Edge Pro clone (the one with the large suction cup base) is a nice system and it is very cheap for what you get.
Of course the original Edge Pro stones are better but for the price, the Chinese stones are not bad either and you can certainly give them a try first.

I would suggest to also buy the Ruixin Diamond stones which are less than $5 each as well as a strong magnet to help holding the knife and a drill stop collar which helps to compensate for differences in case some of the stones are thicker than others.

Here is a photo of my Ruixin.

One the left is the pouch with the original stones
In front are the three Ruixin diamond stones, grids 200, 500 and 800
On the right are aluminum blanks that I cut from a one meter strip. I use these with 3M polishing tapes and with a strip of leather for stropping.

The knife is held in place with a 20x20x10mm Neodymium magnet with a holding power of 14 kg.

All-in-all this cost me about $ 50.- including shipping.

21359795031_57e70cf82b_b.jpg


The DMT Aligner would also be an option in the same price range but I do not like the clamp very much especially for pocket knives. It works well for larger kitchen knives especially with the use of a piece of shammy leather which helps to keep the knife centered and in place.

What I do like about the DMT is the stone holder and the diamond stones and like the Lansky, the guide rod is in line with the surface of the stones so if you get the DMT Aligner with the separately available Lansky clamp, you get the best of both worlds and a nice versatile system.

Frans
 
The Ruixin Edge Pro clone (the one with the large suction cup base) is a nice system and it is very cheap for what you get.
Of course the original Edge Pro stones are better but for the price, the Chinese stones are not bad either and you can certainly give them a try first.

I don't want to hijack the OP's thread but how well would the Ruixin work with shorter 2.5"-3" blade pocket knives like the Spyderco Dragonfly or the BM MiniGrip, etc?

Also, will I be able to keep consistent/repeatable angles each time I use the unit with various knives?

I would suggest to also buy the Ruixin Diamond stones which are less than $5 each as well as a strong magnet to help holding the knife and a drill stop collar which helps to compensate for differences in case some of the stones are thicker than others.

Can you give more detail on the stop collar and magnet that you're referring to? How are those used?

I have an older version of the Sharpmaker but I've wanted to experiment with another unit like the Lansky one of these other units. The Ruixin might make a decent choice and not out a lot of money if it's not for me.
 
I don't want to hijack the OP's thread but how well would the Ruixin work with shorter 2.5"-3" blade pocket knives like the Spyderco Dragonfly or the BM MiniGrip, etc?

Also, will I be able to keep consistent/repeatable angles each time I use the unit with various knives?

Where as the Lansky in my opinion is perfect for smaller pocket knives, I think the Ruixin is more suitable for larger knives. I would have a hard time sharpening my Victorinox knives with it. I think the original Edge Pro Apex has a smaller table than the Ruixin and even for them you would probably need the optional Small Knife Attachement.

It is certainly possible to keep consistent/repeatable angles with the Ruixin, here are a few ways that would work for that:

- Use a Sharpie to color the bevel and see where the stones removes the ink. If the ink is removed only at the very apex, your angle is too steep. If the ink is only removed at the back of the bevel, your angle is too shallow. If all the ink is removed, your angle is correct.

- Align the edge of the knife exactly with the front of the table each time.

- Measure the position of the guide plate relevant to the edge of the table and keep notes so you can repeat it.

Can you give more detail on the stop collar and magnet that you're referring to? How are those used?

Here is a video that explains the use of the stop collar.
The Ruixin uses a slightly different system for angle adjustments (the whole vertical pole adjusts in height) but the principle is the same.

[video=youtube;HoHW3TUdz5s]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HoHW3TUdz5s[/video]

I have glued the magnet to the underside of the table and even through the plastic, it has more than enough force to keep the knife flat on the table and with this knife even so that I can sharpen it without having to hold it by hand.

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Frans
 
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Thing about simple and elegant is you may need a couple tools. You can get pretty darn close on the angles with an angle Finder app for either iOS or android, add a couple clamps from the hardware store and mix in a little imagination. There is satisfaction in doing ingenuity.
 
For the op's original options, I'd go with the clone to try out. It'll give you the same learning curve as the edge pro, so when you get the real one, you hit the ground running like a pro. The import stones are very functional IF you keep them level and flat. You have to level them out on glass (or with a leveling stone) a little more often. But can still get some good life out of them at a budget price. And replacement sets can be grabbed for under ten bucks if you want to keep a backup or two.

But after going through multiple clones, then an apex, then trying a KME on a whim, I kind of wish I would have just started with the KME. For me it's easier, and had a shorter learning curve. And would have actually saved money overall.

However you can get hair splitting edges with just about any system if you are willing to take the time to learn the ins and outs of that particular setup. They all require slightly different tricks to get precision. YouTube can be your best friend when learning specific skills. Just don't bother watching any that trash on one system or another. That will just add confusion. Once you make a decision, stick with it and only watch vids of people that are proficient on that setup, and willing to share their tips and struggles.

And I always remind everyone that the rig that so many start with (the Spyderco Sharpmaker) but get a little frustrated with getting real precision....is ultimately the perfect companion to every guided system. You don't need full profile sharpening every time, once you have a perfect and even bevel. A few swipes on the Sharpmaker to clean up an edge roll or add a micro bevel is usually all it takes to keep a good blade sharp for a very long time.

I have two Sharpmakers and all the rods, and they get used often on blades that I've profiled on the KME. Depending on the knife and desired edge (toothy, frosty, or polished) I'll use the med, fine, or ultra fine rods. I never use the diamond rods any longer because if a blade needs that level of work, it goes back on the KME.

Sorry for the long post for a simple question. I just really enjoy sharpening and getting perfect geometry on my knives. And also matching the edge to the intended purpose of any particular knife. I know I'm my biggest fan, but I think my edges far exceed most if not all factory jobs I've received. But I'm also my biggest critic.
 
Wow, thanks for the response. Especially fvdk and bflying who took the time to provide lot's of information. Something it's still unclear to me about the edge pro clone... Frans said something about small knives not working well on this system and i'm a bit worried about that. The longest blade I have it's no more then 4" and I really have lot's of pocket knives that are way bellow that including lots of victorinox. I'm sick and tired to pay somebody to properly reshape / sharpen my knives to a factory edge.. this is why i need / want to learn how to do this and get a decent setup to begin with. Considering the size of the knives I will be sharpening should i still go for the clone ? Will it give me a hard time with small knives ?
 
I'm not sure I remember doing a tiny blade on the edge pro (or clones). I'm pretty sure it's doable. You just may have to take off the plastic piece from the backstop to allow a lower angle. And may have to apply a little creativity on the placement of the blade. The ability to move the blade around during sharpening is both an advantage and downfall at the same time.

This is another task where the KME shines for me. There is an optional small (pen) blade clamp available. It takes about ten seconds to change out from the standard clamp. I really like having the blade clamped in place. It makes it so the angle never changes throughout the entire process of work and stone change outs. With the apex, every time you move or flip the blade, there is the possibility of slightly different position and angle. Even a tiny change will affect the precision of the edge.

Don't get me wrong and think that it's not possible to get a great edge out of that system, it just requires a different learning curve as stated above. In fact I did a complete re-profile change with a clone on a zt350 (with recurve if you can picture it). It started out with uneven bevels both side to side and tip to tail. I took it to a perfect angle and did a full polish. It ended up amazing and sharp, but took a lot of time (many hours).
 
It is not impossible to sharpen smaller knives on the Ruixin but it is not easy. The table is 7.5 cm / 3" wide so in order to sharpen the belly and the tip of the knife, you would have to use a corner of the table and keep moving the blade.

Tomorrow with daylight I will take a picture and add it to this post to show what I mean.

I fully agree with everything bflying says about the KME and if it is within your budget than there is absolutely no reason not to recommend it.

Frans
 
Here is the photo with a standard Victorinox on the table.

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With the blade in this position, the stone can not follow the curve of the blade and to quote bflying:

"I like having the blade clamped in place. It makes it so the angle never changes throughout the entire process of work and stone change outs. With the apex, every time you move or flip the blade, there is the possibility of slightly different position and angle. Even a tiny change will affect the precision of the edge."

Frans
 
Thanks for the info. The EP is definately not good for me (atlist not at this time). I came across the name KME various times and have no ideea why I didn't do any research on this system until today. Such a shame they didn't advertized this great system.
I was not expecting to spend so much on a sharpening system but my decision it's made; KME is the winner.
The lansky with the diamond stones + the super saphire + the leather stropping and table support on amazon is about 170 euros.
The KME ordered straight from their page (no way i'm finding this here in europe) with the diamond stones kit (they only offer diamond with their system now) without the table support it's around 215 euros including shipping (hope i don't get custom charges for receiving this in spain which would add an extra 21% on the declared value).

I'm sure i'm starting with the right foot with this system. Thanks everyone for helping.
 
Good choice, the KME is an excellent system and their customer service is great. I am sure you will love it.
 
Franz can you elaborate on the use of the stop collar on the Ruixin pro. I have the system and have seen the videos on using the stop collar on the apex pro, but the mechanism for changing the angles on the two systems are different. I cannot figure out where a stop collar placed on the angle rod would allow the correct angle to be made using thinker stones, which is what I end up having to do since my higher grit stones are from congresstools, they are about 3/4 of an inch thicker than the Ruixin stones.

Thanks
 
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