sharpening systems used by Beckerheads???

B

bladescout26

Joined
May 3, 2012
Messages
69
I have always taken my knives to local knife shops to get sharpened whether that be to support the local knife shop or just because I have been a little lazy...but now that I am acquiring more and more knives (translation-getting on this forum and then buying more Beckers) not only will it be more expensive but I feel it is more of a disservice to my knives if I dont sharpen them myself

Question is what sharpening systems do Yall use? or best methods used

on a side note my Esee Becker Kitchen knives show up today and cant wait to use them and I had to add 10 more dollars on to get free shipping so another BK11 is also on the way (thats my justification anyway)

Thanks for the help
 
The Edge Pro Apex has been working great on my Becker knives. It's not too hard to get mirror edges and it didn't take me long to learn how to use it. There are a couple small things I don't understand yet about it but overall it gets a thumbs up.
 
KME System

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Moose
 
I use a KING Japanese whetstone. It's taken a bit of practice for me to get a good edge on my knives but I prefer hand sharpening but in truth that's all I know. Never tried anything else. I can get a wicked edge on my smaller blades. The BK9 is a little bit of a challenge though. Pics for the thread:

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Spyderco Sharpmaker and strop at first to maintain the factory edge as long as possible... then I'll do a convex with DMT diamond plates... smooth it out with a little bit of sandpaper... then strop for sure.

Most any sharpening system will work okay.... but nothing will get you the edge that stropping will.

It took me a while to come around to it... I always thought there was no way that a piece of leather would really make that much of a difference in the edge. Let me tell you... it does. I just touched up my BK9 last night... spent about 30 min stropping the blade while I watched some TV... when I was done, just touching the blade to my forearm popped the hair right off.. no pressure needed. No skin cells... just hair. When I started, it was plenty sharp for chopping... but it wouldn't shave at all. That's the difference that the strop makes.

Get the good edge profile with whatever method you want... then use a good strop to refine and hone that edge... you'll be amazed at the difference.
 
Uncle Malice said:
Spyderco Sharpmaker and strop at first to maintain the factory edge as long as possible... then I'll do a convex with DMT diamond plates... smooth it out with a little bit of sandpaper... then strop for sure.

Most any sharpening system will work okay.... but nothing will get you the edge that stropping will.

It took me a while to come around to it... I always thought there was no way that a piece of leather would really make that much of a difference in the edge. Let me tell you... it does. I just touched up my BK9 last night... spent about 30 min stropping the blade while I watched some TV... when I was done, just touching the blade to my forearm popped the hair right off.. no pressure needed. No skin cells... just hair. When I started, it was plenty sharp for chopping... but it wouldn't shave at all. That's the difference that the strop makes.

Get the good edge profile with whatever method you want... then use a good strop to refine and hone that edge... you'll be amazed at the difference.
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where do you buy or how do you make a good Strop?
 
Nail files ranging from 280 to 600 grit, then three strops, starting at black compound, then red, then plain leather.
 
where do you buy or how do you make a good Strop?
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I don't know if it's okay to say... so mod's can edit this if it's against the rules... but I get my strops from Flexxx. He used to be a member here, but he got banned for something... i think it was for selling strops without a vendor account or something... I don't know how that works... but he's very active over on the ESEE forums... and that's where I got ahold of him to order. I have 2 of his small field strops and one of the large ones. Good stuff.

I haven't used anyone else...

You can also get them from http://usamadeblade.com/
 
I use the WSKTS (hand held belt sander), but I haven't touched my Beckers with it just yet, I want to get a little better with it before I use it to groom Helga and Becca.
 
I also use the Sharpmaker, especially when the knife is newer. Most of the time, I just maintain a good edge with a strop with black compound on one side and green on the other.
 
i use a Norton India stone and just got a Sharpmaker... i am still learning how to use both, well, but have managed to get my knives pretty darn sharp so far.

Oh yeah that reminds me. I also have a Ceramic rod that was given generously to me with some scales that I bought from Jim62. I do use it while watching tv. It makes my really sharp knives, really, really sharp. that thing is pretty sweet. ty again Jim. :thumbup:
 
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I've generally put a Convexed secondary bevel on all my using knives.

I will admit that at age I have become less patent with slow, poor performing sharpening instruments especially in the field. As a Convex edge user, I have gone through all the Trapist Monk stuff with Sandpaper, mouse pads and strops etc . If I must have a fine polished edge I will go that route, but if I want an agressive "ripping" type edge(As Jerry Fisk puts it) that will cut fast and yet, still shave hair- here is what I do with any new knife-

1) Convex the secondary bevel on a Slack belt attachment I've made on my 4x36 belt sander using a fresh 220 grit belt.

2) Polish that edge with a well worn 320 grit belt.

3 Refine the edge lightly and maintain it with a 3/8" or large crotch stick, using it just as one would a knife steel. I first go edge first along the rod and then finish hone going spine first. Seems to work very well. It takes me less than two minutes to bring even a wood battoned edge back to shaving sharp with the crock stick. I don't have to screw around with jigs etc. And yes it doe take a bit of care and a practiced eye to do it, but most all freehand knife sharpening does.

From my experiences with them, I think diamond files and cards suck- especially in finer grits with flat surfaces They load up terribly quick and are impossible to clean once they do. I no longer waste my time and money on them. Coarser Diamond coated rods can work decently but they leave a really rough edge.

BTW That is not a condemnation of folks who use and like them. just in my experience with them over the years they pale as edge maintaining implements compared to a good water stone or ceramic stones or rods - all of which can be flushed of worn steel particles with water and expose fresh abrasives during each use. I like Ceramic rods so much from actual use ,I even go to the trouble to make custom handles for them-

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Work Sharp Knife and Tool Sharpener.

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I'm also planning on getting the KME Sharpener so I can do some wicked v-grinds.
 
wasatchdan said:
Work Sharp Knife and Tool Sharpener.

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I'm also planning on getting the KME Sharpener so I can do some wicked v-grinds.
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I got the work sharp for X-mas last year and i love it, makes the job so easy, even if you have a really beat up blade. I still like to finish up with strop though.
 
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