Sharpening Systems- What is best.

[SeabassSarmale]

Hey guys really specific question here, I have a couple of knives ranging from Cpm20cv, Maxamet, to 8crmov and Cruwear. I have a simple Spyderco Sharpmaker and I've found that the stones do not keep up with what I have. I was wondering if I could get some suggestions on knife sharpening systems and the type of stones I'd need, what grits, as well as stropping compounds , the whole setup etc... I don't need something super expensive and cannot afford something lets say over 300-400, if there is anything under that price point that works for the steels that I generally have that would be great. Also, I am a newbie when it comes to sharpening, so a guided system would be best, thanks guys.

 

[toker]

You're going to get a lot of different suggestions, mostly because there are a lot of great sharpening systems out there. I'm partial to the Wicked Edge system. I recently upgraded from my Gen 1 system to the newer version because I like the system a lot. Easy to sharpen and very easy to get repeatable results. There's a slight learning curve, but nothing difficult. There are also a lot of stones to choose from.

I also have the Ken Onion Worksharp, which I use for some of my beater kitchen knives. It's great for a quick sharpening, but I don't like to use it for my nicer knives since it's really easy to round a tip if you're not careful.

 

[crn3371]

I suggest you go to Gritomatic and browse their offerings, best selection by far. My recommendation would be one of the Hapstone systems.

 

[SeabassSarmale]

You're going to get a lot of different suggestions, mostly because there are a lot of great sharpening systems out there. I'm partial to the Wicked Edge system. I recently upgraded from my Gen 1 system to the newer version because I like the system a lot. Easy to sharpen and very easy to get repeatable results. There's a slight learning curve, but nothing difficult. There are also a lot of stones to choose from.

I also have the Ken Onion Worksharp, which I use for some of my beater kitchen knives. It's great for a quick sharpening, but I don't like to use it for my nicer knives since it's really easy to round a tip if you're not careful.

Thanks, I'll see what they offer and hopefully narrow down some ideas.

 

[3D Anvil]

The lowest cost option would be to pick up some diamond rods for your Sharpmaker.

I think that the systems Gritomatic sells are going to be out of your price range once you add in stones, but there are other fixed angle systems you could use. For example, Work Sharp's Precision Adjust starts at just $50 with diamond and ceramic abrasives. I think they also offer upgrades if you want additional stones. Another option would be the $200 KME kit that comes with four diamond plates ( from140 - 1500 grit). The KME kit is very expandable and uses wider stones than the stock Work Sharp stones.

 

[cudgee]

I have a simple Spyderco Sharpmaker

The lowest cost option would be to pick up some diamond rods for your Sharpmaker.

I would look at this option as it may well suit your needs, if not, it will probably suffice till you decide which way you want to go. Don't rush, can be very expensive if you make the wrong decision in the first place, not all sharpeners suit all people.

 

[777 Edge]

With your knife steels (especially the Maxamet) and keeping things well within budget, I would recommend these options:

1. - Hapstone M3 with a Venev Ursa stone set.

Hapstone M3 Standard Knife Sharpener

Hapstone M3 Knife Sharpener is the new entry-level knife sharpener from Hapstone, supplier of successful Hapstone R1. Hapstone M3 on par with Hapstone V8 and Hapstone R2 is part of the Hapstone Modular Platform, innovative technology to let customers configure and upgrade the sharpening system...

www.gritomatic.com

2. - Hapstone R2 Lite with Venev Ursa stone set.

Hapstone R2 Lite Knife Sharpener

Hapstone R2 Knife Sharpener is the new knife sharpener from Hapstone, supplier of successful Hapstone R1. Hapstone R2 on par with Hapstone V8 and Hapstone M3 is part of the Hapstone Modular Platform, innovative technology to let customers configure and upgrade the sharpening system with no...

www.gritomatic.com

The best option of the two (and slightly more expensive) would be the R2 Lite, with its rotating clamp unit.

The stones are double sided diamond bonded stones, so you get 6 grits. The finest 1200 grit (FEPA-F rating) , equates to about a 5000 grit (JIS rating).

With these stones, your edge will already be of a very high quality and polish, but if you want strops, I would recommend some cowhide leather strop with Gunny juice poly diamond emulsion.

Cowhide Leather Strop [6" x 1"]

Leather Strop is an efficient way of final polishing a cutting edge using Hapstone or Edge Pro knife sharpener. A leather strop enhances the cutting edge by correcting small nicks and smoothing grooves. The working surface is made of smooth high-quality cowhide leather mounted on a high-quality...

www.gritomatic.com

Gunny Juice Poly Diamond Suspension

Gunny Juice Polycrystalline Diamond Suspension is created through a proprietary deionization process offering agglomerate-free dispersion of diamond particles for submicron grits. In conjunction with a very tight particle size distribution, the process permits scratch-free polishing results.

www.gritomatic.com

It would also be best to get yourself a Hapstone Fine tuning adapter, and a digital angle cube.

Fine-Tuning Adapter for Hapstone

Fine-Tuning Adapter is a simple tool for maintaining the chosen sharpening angle while working on Hapstone knife sharpener.Specification Material: Aluminum Compatibility: Hapstone Modular Sharpeners, Hapstone M2, Hapstone V6, Hapstone V5, Edge Pro Apex

www.gritomatic.com

Digital Angle Gauge

It's very important to keep a sharpening angle consistent on a guided knife sharpener. The angle should not change when replacing one sharpening stones to another. In order to control the sharpening angle, one measures the angle between the knife plane and the sharpening stone.There are many...

www.gritomatic.com

 

[TrainedBullets]

I like the Apex Edge Pro for full flat and saber grinds. Mostly, I use it on kitchen knives. It’s quick and easy.

For convex or hollow grinds, I like water stones and stropping. Not quick or as easy as the guided system, but very satisfying.

If I were to go with one system, it would be waterstones and stropping.

 

[Spats McGee]

With your knife steels (especially the Maxamet) and keeping things well within budget, I would recommend these options:

1. - Hapstone M3 with a Venev Ursa stone set.

Hapstone M3 Standard Knife Sharpener

Hapstone M3 Knife Sharpener is the new entry-level knife sharpener from Hapstone, supplier of successful Hapstone R1. Hapstone M3 on par with Hapstone V8 and Hapstone R2 is part of the Hapstone Modular Platform, innovative technology to let customers configure and upgrade the sharpening system...

www.gritomatic.com

2. - Hapstone R2 Lite with Venev Ursa stone set.

Hapstone R2 Lite Knife Sharpener

Hapstone R2 Knife Sharpener is the new knife sharpener from Hapstone, supplier of successful Hapstone R1. Hapstone R2 on par with Hapstone V8 and Hapstone M3 is part of the Hapstone Modular Platform, innovative technology to let customers configure and upgrade the sharpening system with no...

www.gritomatic.com

The best option of the two (and slightly more expensive) would be the R2 Lite, with its rotating clamp unit.

The stones are double sided diamond bonded stones, so you get 6 grits. The finest 1200 grit (FEPA-F rating) , equates to about a 5000 grit (JIS rating).

With these stones, your edge will already be of a very high quality and polish, but if you want strops, I would recommend some cowhide leather strop with Gunny juice poly diamond emulsion.

Cowhide Leather Strop [6" x 1"]

Leather Strop is an efficient way of final polishing a cutting edge using Hapstone or Edge Pro knife sharpener. A leather strop enhances the cutting edge by correcting small nicks and smoothing grooves. The working surface is made of smooth high-quality cowhide leather mounted on a high-quality...

www.gritomatic.com

Gunny Juice Poly Diamond Suspension

Gunny Juice Polycrystalline Diamond Suspension is created through a proprietary deionization process offering agglomerate-free dispersion of diamond particles for submicron grits. In conjunction with a very tight particle size distribution, the process permits scratch-free polishing results.

www.gritomatic.com

It would also be best to get yourself a Hapstone Fine tuning adapter, and a digital angle cube.

Fine-Tuning Adapter for Hapstone

Fine-Tuning Adapter is a simple tool for maintaining the chosen sharpening angle while working on Hapstone knife sharpener.Specification Material: Aluminum Compatibility: Hapstone Modular Sharpeners, Hapstone M2, Hapstone V6, Hapstone V5, Edge Pro Apex

www.gritomatic.com

Digital Angle Gauge

It's very important to keep a sharpening angle consistent on a guided knife sharpener. The angle should not change when replacing one sharpening stones to another. In order to control the sharpening angle, one measures the angle between the knife plane and the sharpening stone.There are many...

www.gritomatic.com

Let me start by saying that I absolutely zero hands-on experience with any guided system except my (very recently purchased) Hapstone R2, and a Gatco system. So I'm not in a position to say anything, good or bad, about the other guided systems that are out there. With that said, S SeabassSarmale , one of the things that appealed to me about the Hapstone systems is that they are modular. For example, if you got the M3 listed above, you could get the rotating clamp module later, and swap it out for the magnetic table, if you wanted to.

 

[Ourorboros]

Because of the 20CV and Maxamet steel, you will need diamond stones regardless of the system.
The 8cr will be fine with aluminum oxide.
Which grits you need depends on the edge you like. Though a coarse-medium-strop will take care of most things.

 

[gazz98]

Not to poo poo on a sharpening system but there is a certain joy and pride in hand sharpening. Yes, it can be frustrating and take practice (lots of it..) and patience but it is worth it imo. You will gain an old school skill that will last a lifetime. It also helps with touching up knives in the field if you are a hiker/camping/hunter.

You can get a 6" DMT 2 stone diamond set (4 grits, 2 per stone, xtra coarse/coarse + fine/xtra fine) for $90. Add a leather strop for $30 and some green compound $10 and you will be set. A very capable kit for $140ish depending on s/h.

Something to reconsider maybe. Either way, good luck!

 

[Spats McGee]

Not to poo poo on a sharpening system but there is a certain joy and pride in hand sharpening. Yes, it can be frustrating and take practice (lots of it..) and patience but it is worth it imo. You will gain an old school skill that will last a lifetime. It also helps with touching up knives in the field if you are a hiker/camping/hunter.

You can get a 6" DMT 2 stone diamond set (4 grits, 2 per stone, xtra coarse/coarse + fine/xtra fine) for $90. Add a leather strop for $30 and some green compound $10 and you will be set. A very capable kit for $140ish depending on s/h.

Something to reconsider maybe. Either way, good luck!

For me, there's a certain zen quality to doing it. I spend 8+ hours a day in front of a computer monitor, and I find it very relaxing to spend time doing something (other than typing) with my hands.

For me (and maybe others who are still learning), one big benefit of having a guided system, even something relatively inexpensive like the Lansky, is knowing that if I really screw up an edge, I can fix it pretty easily. They're also very useful for setting the initial bevel if I want something other than what the knife currently has.

 

[Spats McGee]

Hey guys really specific question here, I have a couple of knives ranging from Cpm20cv, Maxamet, to 8crmov and Cruwear. I have a simple Spyderco Sharpmaker and I've found that the stones do not keep up with what I have. I was wondering if I could get some suggestions on knife sharpening systems and the type of stones I'd need, what grits, as well as stropping compounds , the whole setup etc... I don't need something super expensive and cannot afford something lets say over 300-400, if there is anything under that price point that works for the steels that I generally have that would be great. Also, I am a newbie when it comes to sharpening, so a guided system would be best, thanks guys.

I also wonder what kind of knives you have, S SeabassSarmale . You've told us what they're made of, but not how large. That makes a difference. I have the Gatco diamond system, but because of the geometry of the parts, I can't put low angles on small knives, or even pocket knives. It also has some limitations with respect to larger knives. Again, it's a geometry problem, but it's a different geometry problem than it has with small knives. So knowing what kind of knives you want to sharpen might help us help you.

 

[kane22]

I'll vote KME with their diamond plates, get the stone thickness compensator while you're at it. Use light pressure and keep the plates clean and they'll last you a long time. I use a drop of dish soap mixed in with the their water bottle for lube. I finished on a quality leather strop with white and green compound for years, with good results. Now I've gone to 1 micron gunny juice on balsa wood to finish with. It gives me a little better edge. I think that's the cheapest option that gives really nice results.

The Hapstone systems look nice too, but you can get even more money wrapped up in them. All the guided systems have some pros and cons.

If you can sharpen freehand there are even cheaper options. I've tried and was never that happy with my results.

 

[SeabassSarmale]

I also wonder what kind of knives you have, S SeabassSarmale . You've told us what they're made of, but not how large. That makes a difference. I have the Gatco diamond system, but because of the geometry of the parts, I can't put low angles on small knives, or even pocket knives. It also has some limitations with respect to larger knives. Again, it's a geometry problem, but it's a different geometry problem than it has with small knives. So knowing what kind of knives you want to sharpen might help us help you.

So I've got your typical knives in these steels, a Pm2 in Maxamet, Adamas Cruwear, XM-24 20cv, Coldsteel sr1 lite, and so on.

 

[SeabassSarmale]

So I've got your typical knives in these steels, a Pm2 in Maxamet, Adamas Cruwear, XM-24 20cv, Coldsteel sr1 lite, and so on.

Mostly larger knives, nothing smaller then 3 inches.

 

[cudgee]

All the guided systems have some pros and cons.

Yes, its the classic one size does not fit all. Some of the cheaper ones i have experimented with give surprisingly good results, results that just an average carrier of an EDC would be more than happy with.

 

[blanex1]

i use a edge pro when I get lazy! but when I do freehand I get that zen feeing along stopping, you could say I go both ways.

 

[toker]

So I've got your typical knives in these steels, a Pm2 in Maxamet, Adamas Cruwear, XM-24 20cv, Coldsteel sr1 lite, and so on.

Watch a bunch of videos on the various systems. Buy the one that looks like it would fit you best. IMO, that's the best way to go. A guided system is going to allow the best repeatability and prolong the life of your knife.

 

[Boattale]

You're going to get a lot of different suggestions, mostly because there are a lot of great sharpening systems out there. I'm partial to the Wicked Edge system. I recently upgraded from my Gen 1 system to the newer version because I like the system a lot. Easy to sharpen and very easy to get repeatable results. There's a slight learning curve, but nothing difficult. There are also a lot of stones to choose from.

I also have the Ken Onion Worksharp, which I use for some of my beater kitchen knives. It's great for a quick sharpening, but I don't like to use it for my nicer knives since it's really easy to round a tip if you're not careful.

What's wrong with being careful? Like my Ken Onion a lot. The biggest problem it's caused me has been from accidentally touching the blade and then losing a couple of drops of blood.