Sharpening the new Busses

eljugador said:
That's what I was hoping/assuming all mine would do. None come close but the SAR 3 is the worst. Just for kicks I tried it with the two new ESEE blades I got and a new Bark River and all three of those sliced the hell out of the paper.
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That video was shot after I sharpened the CGASH1. My point being that though it may have come incapable of melting through newspaper I was able to make it. Deeming the blade far from a 'joke'.

If the point of this thread is to complain about Busse knives not being sharp from the factory then I am out of here. If you want to learn how to sharpen a knife I will stick here with you as long as it takes to teach you.

P.S. I know you didn't call the blades a joke.
 
Any way you slice it Rich that's one sharp CGASH, :eek: nice job. :thumbup: What all did you use to get it that way.
 
richstag said:
If the point of this thread is to complain about Busse knives not being sharp from the factory then I am out of here. If you want to learn how to sharpen a knife I will stick here with you as long as it takes to teach you.

P.S. I know you didn't call the blades a joke.
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Well it is a little frustrating that it needs work right out of the gate but no, my goal is to solve the problem without doing damage to the knife. First and foremost, I'm looking to get the SAR3 and then the SAR4LE (which is currently kind of sharp).

If I'm looking at them correctly, the SAR3 is a V and the SAR4LE is a convex so I guess I get to learn two methods. Unfortunately, I got rid of all my beater knives to pay for the nice knives I've been gathering. The length and angle of the V on the SAR3 is different on both sides by what seems to be quite a bit.
 
Busse and Swamp Rat seem to be related when it comes to poor edges. I'm slowly working on my RMD with my EdgePro to get to an edge that is deserves. I was going to give it away but decided to hang on to it to experiment with reprofiling. Won't feel bad if I screw this one up since it is a give away knife anyway.
 
richstag said:
P.S. I know you didn't call the blades a joke.
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Reading my post a little while later, after I have cooled off, it reads a

little harsh.

I most certainly did not call the blades a joke. What I was getting at is that,

I think the particular one that I got, was sub par.

I think that Busse knives are some of the best looking blades out there.

Also, after putting some time in and sharpening this SAR 3, INFI seems pretty

remarkable.

I almost edited my previous post. But that's a slippery slope. What I wrote,

is what I felt, and I leave it as such.

Also I apologize for sidetracking this post, it was about sharpening, and my

rant had very little to do with that.

Time and a place and all that.

So how do I get rid of this little tiny burr??
 
So I just checked my various knives. It seems the HHFSH, SAR3, and BATCLE are all Vs (as are the ESEES) and the Bark River and the SAR4LE are convex -- and already sharp.

There is a professional knife sharpener in town who uses and sells the Edge Pro system which seems like it might be idiot resistant. Perhaps I could get him to fix the SAR3 then I could maintain it (perhaps using an Edge Pro myself?).

For the Convex blades, perhaps I can just use a strop to keep them sharp and/or try the sandpaper mouse trick as needed?

If I do that, is there a cheap convex blade someone can recommend for practice?
 
i usually cut into a car or the like's,to keep my edge in working order. :thumbup:
 
d762nato said:
Any way you slice it Rich that's one sharp CGASH, :eek: nice job. :thumbup: What all did you use to get it that way.
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I use a belt sander:thumbup:

eljugador said:
Well it is a little frustrating that it needs work right out of the gate but no, my goal is to solve the problem without doing damage to the knife. First and foremost, I'm looking to get the SAR3 and then the SAR4LE (which is currently kind of sharp).

If I'm looking at them correctly, the SAR3 is a V and the SAR4LE is a convex so I guess I get to learn two methods. Unfortunately, I got rid of all my beater knives to pay for the nice knives I've been gathering. The length and angle of the V on the SAR3 is different on both sides by what seems to be quite a bit.
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Okay, and I understand how frustrating it can be. I have been there. As a matter of fact the CGASH1 was THE knife that made me really learn to re-profile an edge. It was indeed uneven and far from sharp. I was a V guy with stones and Ban suggested I get an X-Coarse DMT Bench Stone. Of course I listened. I had an even edge in under ten minutes! WOW. Then I finished on my stones and hand strop. It was very sharp!

I use a belt sander now because it is so fast and easy and once I have a good edge I can keep it up with the leather belt and various compounds.

If you are working with convex then I would keep it convex and go with sandpaper. If the edge is good but you just want to keep it up then get or make a strop and order some compounds.

If you get a system to sharpen your V edges then it is still very important to understand what a burr is.

I guess I would start by trying to explain that Convex or V they both come down to an edge. The difference is what is behind the edge. When sharpening either type you NEED to remove metal at the edge. You NEED to form a burr from both sides of the edge and then you NEED to remove the burr.

As far as I know Busse sharpens all knives on a belt. I would be inclined to believe even what you are thinking is a V edge is actually a Convex edge formed on a tight section of belt. So even if you put the 'V' edge to a stone you may find it is not as flat as you think. Then you may get frustrated again. Wondering how much work it is going to take to make it a true V edge.

If I were you I would invest in a good strop and compounds and various grits of sandpaper and leather and a mouse pad. You can use the mouse pad and paper for more extreme convex and the leather to back the sandpaper for more of a V edge. All and all you will not be put out to much financially and you can't screw up your knife to badly. Your SAR4LE will probably get sharp and stay sharp with just a strop and compounds (depending on how badly you beat it up and how often you strop it back to sharp).

Understanding what you are doing is the most important part of sharpening. Then all you have to do is master your control.

Maybe this helped?
 
richstag said:
LMAO, with a Strop:D
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I've been stropping it forever, and it's not going away!!

I can see it reflecting light so I know it's there!!

I am using a leather strop with black and green compound (alternating cause

I can't seem to get rid of it)

This is indeed a burr I'm seeing right? Looks like little droplets of shiny metal.

Never seen a burr like this before though!

Thanks for helping! :D
 
Thanks, Rich. That all makes sense. Are you suggesting that I'll be able to get the SAR 3 back to even just with sandpaper? If yes, what grit do you recommend starting out with. Also, can turn a crappy beater into a convex to practice on?
 
eloreno said:
I've been stropping it forever, and it's not going away!!

I can see it reflecting light so I know it's there!!

I am using a leather strop with black and green compound (alternating cause

I can't seem to get rid of it)

This is indeed a burr I'm seeing right? Looks like little droplets of shiny metal.

Never seen a burr like this before though!

Thanks for helping! :D
Click to expand...

It is probably a pretty large burr. What do you use before the strop?

That is why I said my previous comments are just a start and not all encompassing. On a belt sander you can knock off a burr thats been formed on pretty much any grit fairly quickly. But depending on how toothy you want an edge it is best to raise a burr with a finer grit. If you like polished edges then by the time you have worked your way up through the grits the burr will be almost gone. Then minimal work is needed on a strop.

If you are trying to remove a large grit burr on a hand strop then...well I never tried:D

It may be worth your time to raise a high grit burr and remove that on your strop.
 
Richard,

I used 400 to try and reshape the edge, once I had it as good as I could get it, I went,

600, 1000, 1500, 2000, black, then green.....

Maybe I should have spent more time on each....
 
eljugador said:
Thanks, Rich. That all makes sense. Are you suggesting that I'll be able to get the SAR 3 back to even just with sandpaper? If yes, what grit do you recommend starting out with. Also, can turn a crappy beater into a convex to practice on?
Click to expand...

I would start with 320 and see if you can work with that. I don't know how bad the edge is though or how quickly you want to finish.
 
eloreno said:
Richard,

I used 400 to try and reshape the edge, once I had it as good as I could get it, I went,

600, 1000, 1500, 2000, black, then green.....

Maybe I should have spent more time on each....
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Yeah, Im not sure. By 2000 it should have been pretty tiny. Removing a burr is basically knocking it from side to side until it breaks. Of course the edge is being aligned and polished also.
 
Mr. Clean said:
Edge Pro works for everyone and everything.
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Yep. I can sharpen just about anything with just about any sharpening method I've run across. But I don't have to prove anything anymore and I like it easy, so I use Edge Pro.;):thumbup:
 
You are right, there is no excuse for a knife not being at least reasonably sharp as delivered, and having proper grinds. No one here is going to be making excuses for Busse. Call the Shop, and they will take care of you.

(btw, I bought my first ESEE recently, the Machete, and it had NO edge at all. They promptly replaced it, (they have great customer service) but the new one was still not really sharp. My belt grinder fixed that. Jeff explained in an email that at the price point of the imported machetes, they really can't afford to regrind each edge. I have no experience with their made in the USA blades, so please don't extrapolate)
 
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