• The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
    Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
    Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.

  • Today marks the 24th anniversary of 9/11. I pray that this nation does not forget the loss of lives from this horrible event. Yesterday conservative commentator Charlie Kirk was murdered, and I worry about what is to come. Please love one another and your family in these trying times - Spark

sharpening

I failed. Completely dulled two blades and even scratched the sides a bit :(

No worries, its just a knife. Were you planning using them? Right?

A scratch is just some character coming out. Don't lose hope.

If you dulled it, it seems you might be coming in at too steep of an angle, and remember, with diamond sharpeners, you don't need much pressure.

Whatever we can do to help, we will.

Moose
 
No worries, its just a knife. Were you planning using them? Right?

A scratch is just some character coming out. Don't lose hope.

If you dulled it, it seems you might be coming in at too steep of an angle, and remember, with diamond sharpeners, you don't need much pressure.

Whatever we can do to help, we will.

Moose

This thing should work right?

How many passes should I be doing? I'm just messing with an Acheron from kabar to practice. I tried on a CRKT M16 too and that thing isn't sharp now.
 
A smith's pocket diamond sharpener. Pickings were slim at Gander Mountain

A sharp edge is just simple geometry. Keeping the angles the same, and raising a burr on one side, once you have a burr, flip it over and do the same thing to the other side. Work up in your stone grit, from lowest to highest, when you reach "done" strop off the edge (moving the blade spine first) on some cardboard or leather or hell, you're jeans will work, to knock that burr off.

Should be sharp by then, if not, I'll dig up a post I did on using a guide system. Even the Smith's will work, but they ain't no KME. :D

It helps to mark the edge with a sharpie so you can see where you are hitting the stone.

Moose
 
you got sand paper laying around? make yourself a sharpener with different grits of sandpaper if you dont have a stone. Those diamond rods are meant for serrations too, i have one of those smith sharpeners somewhere. and the pull through works for small pocket knives but not much bigger.
 
is this what your using?

smiths.jpg
 
I'm using one of those diamond rod sharpeners. The mini ones that are like a pen. I'm going to try some sand paper sponges.
 
Ok, here is a post I had to dig up out of the ESEE forum.

The same principles apply, but with a guide, its easier to keep the same angle.

Ok, you need a Lansky (got that) and a sharpie.

Start with the coarse stone (extra coarse if you have it).

Clamp the knife on the spine, right where the little indentions are on the clamp. Make sure when you hold the knife up, the edge is centered in the clamp, then crank it down as tight as you can get it.

Take the sharpie and mark along the edge, completely blacking it out.

Take the stone and the rod, lay the rod on a flat surface, I use the kit box top. Place the stone on the rod and tighten the thumbscrew in the front. Make sure the stone and the rod are in line with one another. If the rod has some bend in it, flex it slightly until it straightens out and is perfectly in line with the stone.

Place the rod through the 19 degree (I use 25, its a good working angle)

Gently begin moving the stone back and forth moving from the ricasso to the tip. See where the sharpie is gone. If you are hitting high, you will still have sharpie on the edge. If you are hitting low, you will have sharpie on the shoulder. Adjust the angle until you are striking from the edge to the shoulder completely.

Repeat this process until you get a burr on the under side, should take about 5-6 passes. Flip the clamp over, and repeat the process until you get a burr on the under side. Once you have it, change from coarse to medium, and repeat the process, sharpie, stone, burr. Then change to the fine stone.

Repeat, sharpie, stone, burr. Once you are using the fine (extra fine) stone, continue to make passes until the burr gets smaller and smaller until you can barely feel it. Then strop it.

Stropping it is not an overly difficult process. Leather, canvas, denim will be fine. If you don't have jewelers rouge, chromium oxide, or crystylon power, use powder detergent. Rub your charge (rough, CO, or CP)into your strop until there is no sign of the charge sitting on the strop.

Start by pulling off the blade, meaning drag the spine first, and the edge must be touching the strop, at the appropriate angle. You will feel when the edge begins to grab, and thats where you want to be. Back and forth, about 10 times on each side, and you should look at the edge and see mirror. Test on hair, paper, pets, spouses, and the neighbors pets.

Let me know how it works out for you.

Moose

This is C&P that I did in a post once more. I apologize. I'm lazy.

Moose
 
Yeh use sandpaper. and the order yourself a proper stone. with the sand paper drag the knife backwards. use the weight of the knife only. you should raise a burr pretty quickly. also another tip like moose said, take a sharpie and color the edge, the swipe, check to see if you have the right angle by looking at the marker marks. adjust accordingly and go at it.
 
well, to answer your question, yes. But, look closely at the picture and you will see just how big those stones actually are. That would be great for slip joint traditional pocket knives, but for big beckers a small stone will do two things 1) aggrivate the crap out of you and 2) sharpen your knives unevenly since it is too small for a full sharpening stroke, you wil have to reset half way through which leaves room for error.

turn on your email and ill send you a link to a good stone. then all you need to do is the sharpie trick and you wil have it down in no time.
 
I turned it on. Thanks!!!

The problem is I am a grad student and don't have a ton of extra cash so I can't buy anything too fancy. I guess I went too cheap with this little dinky thing and got what I paid for. Oh well.
 
I turned it on. Thanks!!!

The problem is I am a grad student and don't have a ton of extra cash so I can't buy anything too fancy. I guess I went too cheap with this little dinky thing and got what I paid for. Oh well.

Email me your address, I'll send you a Lansky if you want it. Its used, but it works.

Moose
 
KME sharpeners. Best guide system around.

Made in the USA 100% and for a fairly reasonable price. Sharpens everything from 2" blade to a 9" blade. I been using it for a year, and I won't have anything else.

I also have a myriad of Norton stones as well, but he KME gets used so much more.

Moose

Just checked that out, it looks NICE, gotta get one of these!
 
go moose :)

send me the story too, so i can confirm it's the one i know...

systems... i have many. spyderocos sharpmakers and bench stones. they're nice.

glass and mouse pads and foam and strops and sandpaper...

lately, i got an edge-pro and imho, it's the BEST system on the planet. guide system, much more fluid and precise than many others i've seen. often copied. badly. a variety of stones, polishing tapes, and such... you can even re-level stones easily to get the final life from them. precise edge profiling, i've never used anything like it.

otherwise, esp for large tools, choppers, etc, i got a "sharpmaker" belt system - its a mini slack belt. does CONVEXING, sweet. fast. perhaps too fast if you're not careful.

now, if i had $40000, i'd buy a four roller KMG or something like that ;) SWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET - fisk all the things.
 
What a guy, Moose. While your in the giving mood, you can send that "used" tweener my way!! I e-mailed my address.....
 
i know a used tweener coming to my mailbox soon :)
 
Back
Top