Sharping stones forum members are using.

The "super steel" blades I have cost me a little more money than my easier to sharpen blades, so I take them straight to the most reliable and precise tool I have, the Wicked Edge. I've sharpened many of the notoriously difficult steels with the diamond paddles, and it is reasonably quick, with no drama! I use the WE ceramic paddles for the next few grades, and if I want to get a fancy polish I use diamond paste on leather paddles. This gets a professional-looking and very sharp edge on anything.

To develop my freehand skills, I like the romance of natural stones and water (although Shapton glass ceramics are probably the most practical, and also beautiful to use).
 
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I have a set of:
-Norton waterstones
-Suzuki Ya house brand waterstones - pretty much the full set
-Juuma 800 and 2k stones
-Suehiro Rika G8
-Ultrasharp 300/1200 combination stone
-one of these combination stones:WoodRiver-Diamond-Stone-10-Inch but from a different brand
-Set of DMT diasharps and one C/F duosharp
-Norton Crystalon JUM3
-several of my Washboard blocks used with silicon carbide wet/dry or paper
-Foss combination stone


The Norton waterstones work great on common carbon steels and lower RC stainless - they are very reluctant to form large burrs and do not load easily. They wear fast but grind quickly on the aforementioned steels.

Suzuki Ya stones are the best I have for a lot of steels, but they really shine on high RC carbon steel woodworking tools. Very hard, do not wear easily, do not load easily as long as they are flushed often.

Juuma 800 and 2k and crazy hard for waterstones. They work well on relatively low carbide content stainless and carbon steels at high Rockwell. They are not terribly fast and are prone to loading but make a very good edge on just about everything

Suehiro Rika G8 is my most favorite finishing stone for all low Vanadium stainless ad if I had to only use one finishing waterstone this would be it.

Ultrasharp 300/1200 was a gift from a buddy - I use this often on high carbide stainless. This is a very good 1-2 stone to reset bevels and finish the edge off for a lot of steels. Bond quality seems to be very good, good grind speed, good value.

Wood-River combination stone - this can be found on the web under a number of brand names at different price points. Feels somewhat cheap but is a good performer and travels well. Also a great 1-2 combination stone for high carbide or convenience sharpening.

DMT - I like and use the full set, though most of the time I just use the Ultrasharp or Wood River diamond plates instead. A bit overpriced and have had issues w/ three of them over the years, two of which were taken care of by customer service, os no harm no foul. Their EEF diasharp is a must-have for situations where high Vanadium needs to be taken to a very bright finish.

Norton Crystalon is a must-have for anyone into their sharpening in general. Very fast, all purpose stone that can put a utility edge on any steel and do so quickly. In a pinch I have even used it to finish off some of my wood chisels when doing no finesse jobs and it can restore a nice armhair shaving edge to a damaged tool very quickly. Great feedback, great value, the reclaimed mud from this when used with oil is one of my favorite improvised stropping compounds.

Washboard blocks that I make and sell are what I consider to be a "ghetto waterstone" as they give good feel and the convenience of working with wet/dry sandpaper in a format that produces a much flatter edge bevel than using wet/dry over a continuous surface. Used with plain paper or paper and compound I finish off almost all my edges with one of these.

The Foss combination stone is the fastest combi stone I own, the fastest waterstone I own, period. The coarse side properly dressed is a beast, the "fine" side is just refined enough to set the edge up for a microbevel. This stone combined with the Suehiro Rika G8 can handle a great deal of sharpening chores - maybe not as efficiently as some other stone sets, but they are always an option. On its own it does not make very good edges but is a good set-up stone.

I have a number of other stones, but these are the ones that are close at hand around my bench - I have stopped using any of my King waterstones, Arkansas, ceramics, and prefer the Crystalon to my India stones (YMMV).
 
Been using these since 1984 or 1985. Small DMT coarse and an Arkansas hard. Strop on a brown paper bag.

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Mostly my own Arctic Fox, American Mutt, and Manticore stones. Anything that impacts something it shouldn't gets a touch from the Mutt to erase the damage, and if a few quick strokes don't completely remove it, it gets the Manticore to reset the edge. The Arctic Fox gets used for routine touchups of undamaged edges that have blunted through wear, although it's capable of taking out minor edge damage with how fast it cuts, despite its fine finish.
 
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Amakusa red, Japan, about 500 grit. Mine came from Japan and cost about $90 on Amazon, but I saw a U.S. dealer selling them for about $35. Look at the size of that baby. Big, huge, and fast, it really needs to be lapped!!

Hard Arkansas stone from Pro-Cut. These are great stones for the right steels!

Belgian blue whetstone, about 5K.

Tsushima nagura. This is the blue-black stone, quarried under the ocean. A really fine finisher, for not too much money. This stone is so nice it makes me dream when I use it.

Sometimes I finish on a $26 Chinese "emerald stone". No kidding, this is a really nice fine stone. They call it 1K.

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"I'll have a wart hog tusk, please. Make that a large."

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Where did you buy that Emerald stone? It's beautiful/

I got mine on Amazon. It was shipped from China, and it took about three weeks or so. I have bought about four of them, as they make impressive (and cheap!) gifts! I think you can get them from U.S. suppliers more quickly now.

I'm not buying 1K, though. More like a medium finisher. It gives a decent shine but there are still scratches visible to my tired eyes. It doesn't remove material like a 1K. I like to use it on everyday user knives, that don't deserve a full blown polish, but that I want to look good in case I want to show off a little!
 
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It's probably some form of jade, not "emerald". :)

Who knows? You can't tell from the ad copy! When the guy was writing the ad, he might have meant "emerald stone" as "emerald green in color" and when the ad got to me I read it as emerald as in that rock. Or stone. Mineral?

When I bought mine they called it 10K! The newer ads call them a more realistic 1K, but I'm thinking it's probably higher than that. They don't seem to give the location of the quarries anywhere, but I've bought four of them, in three different packages, and except for one with a vein on one side, they are very useful stones for a rough polish.

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That is a kit knife, with a blade made in India. I bought it from Atlanta Cutlery, when their paper catalog was one of the few resources I had. A million years ago, possibly two million. Water buffalo seemed right for the handle scales, and the brass bolster had to be about twice as big (and HEAVY!) as it should have been! I learned, but it took a while. Along the way, a few of the patients,...well...They may not look so good!

This is probably not very good steel, but it only took about 15 strokes per side to get a scratchy but decent shine on the bevel with The Green Manalishi, which is what I shall call the green stone from China. It cuts slowly, and it would take a long time to get this up to a much higher standard. I gave the other three away, and kept this one because of the glitch in one side.
 
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There's really no grit rating to natural stones. There's not a consistent graded abrasive grain size to them like manufactured stones, so they're using a made-up value anyhow. :p It'll probably only be usable on lower RC simple carbon steels, as the abrasive qualities will be less than that of Arkansas stones, which are already only barely able to deal with most stainless steels and high-alloy tool steels.
 
Thanks for the info, 42! I appreciate it.

...It'll probably only be usable on lower RC simple carbon steels, as the abrasive qualities will be less than that of Arkansas stones, which are already only barely able to deal with most stainless steels and high-alloy tool steels.

That's exactly how it has performed for me so far. The Indian steel from the'80's and the more primitive steels in the shop get along okay, but when I tried to sharpen some VG-10, the stone would barely leave any evidence that it had been there after five or ten strokes. No shine, no real evidence of what the stone even hit!
 
I'm not buying 1K, though. More like a medium finisher. When I bought mine they called it 10K!
Hi,
Really?
K kreisler put it higher than 3k
and
3k & 10K Ruby/Beryl Combination Stone

The grit rating is accurate, with the 3k side leaving a nice polish and the 10K side leaving a mirrored polish. Under 60x, the 3k looked 3k, and the 10k side looked to be 8k-10k.


It's probably some form of jade, not "emerald". :)
Why not?
They calls it jade and agate and beryl (emerald) and china has all those minerals,
... so chinese arkansas? :)

some kind of scratch test?
 

I don't have the experience (or the eyesight!) to do more than guess at where a stone lies on the scale, but the green removes very, very little material, feels extremely smooth, and leaves behind a shiny but scratch-ridden finish that is probably the result of operator error more than the stone!

It's polishing, it's not sharpening at all. I tried a few strokes with D-2, and as with the VG-10, the bevel looked like the strokes had maybe not even happened. I'll go with a little less abrasive than my Arkansas stones, and polishing at higher than 3K!
 
Why not?
They calls it jade and agate and beryl (emerald) and china has all those minerals,
... so chinese arkansas? :)

some kind of scratch test?

Because it doesn't look like beryl...at all. That's why. :) Also, I think calling them "Chinese Arkansas" stones is giving them too much credit. All of those minerals are softer than novaculite is, and will have poorer abrasive qualities than Arkansas stones themselves have, which is already quite low compared to synthetics.
 
Because it doesn't look like beryl...at all. That's why. :) Also, I think calling them "Chinese Arkansas" stones is giving them too much credit. All of those minerals are softer than novaculite is, and will have poorer abrasive qualities than Arkansas stones themselves have, which is already quite low compared to synthetics.
Hi,
What pictures?
 
The images I was seeing for beryl were more from the aquamarine end of the spectrum. That being said, I fully reserve the right to be wrong! I'm just answering your question. :) I quite commonly see Chinese natural green sharpening stones labeled as jade, but hadn't seen any labeled as beryl until actually searching specifically for them by that term, whereas the jade ones I've seen commonly without even looking for them at all.
 
I have some kind of "polka dot" diamond plate, yellow IIRC. Mostly I use my Norton 1000/4000 and King 1000/8000 combo water stones. I have been wanting to buy the Green Brick of Joy of late.
 
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