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Sharping stones forum members are using.

Discussion in 'Maintenance, Tinkering & Embellishment' started by snapshot2017, Dec 16, 2018.

  1. Kyle363

    Kyle363 Gold Member Gold Member

    144
    Dec 11, 2016
    Oh man so many stones....

    Most of them are for working on Japanese knives. All about that contrast and scratch pattern.

    Shapton stones and diamond stones are more for my folders and super steels.

    Atoma 140, 400
    Shapton pro 120, 220, 2000
    Shapton Glass 500, 2000, 4000
    Nubatama 150, 220, 1000, 4000, 8000
    JNS 800, Red Aoto, 6000
    JKI 700, 1200
    Suehiro Rika 5000
    N name 400 grit
    2 JNats
    Venev Bonded Diamond stone
     
  2. Ourorboros

    Ourorboros

    242
    Jan 23, 2017
    I received my before Christmas. There were a couple options on Amazon, I bought the lower cost one. Used it as a finishing stone on a kitchen knife. It did give a noticeably keener edge than the 2K stone preceding it.
    I'm liking it. I really wasn't expecting much, but it works. Mine is much darker though.
     
    bucketstove likes this.
  3. wardcleaver

    wardcleaver Gold Member Basic Member Gold Member

    152
    Apr 17, 2017
    Mostly use a bunch of DMT stuff. Also have some Spyderco pocket stones in med. and fine, and the big one in ultra-fine.
     
  4. samuraistuart

    samuraistuart KnifeMaker / Craftsman / Service Provider Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Dec 21, 2006
    Wow! What a question OP Snapshot!

    Lots of inventory and lots of opinions to be had, no doubt about it!

    I’ll start backwards, I can use waterstones for carbon steel sharpening (I’ll be talking newly made knives here), but the water can cause issues if the sharpening session is lengthy and involved. Anyone who does this knows what I mean !! Water marks, however subtle they are!

    I don’t care to take knives past 2k-4K JIS. Razors....yeah. Generally 2k maximum on all knives. Often, DMT fine (600 mesh) is plenty!

    On bench stones:
    Baronyx 60 grit SiC stone
    American mutt 120grit is it?
    Sigma power select 120 waterstone
    Crystolon coarse and fine
    India coarse and fine
    Generic 120 waterstone
    Suehiro chemical 320
    Naniwa super 400
    Norton 1000
    Shapton pro 1000
    Naniwa Green Brick 2000
    King 4000
    Suehiro 8000
    Chinese 12000
    Spyderco 4000
    Spyderco 8000
    DiaSharp 120-8000
    Atoma 140-1200
     
    FortyTwoBlades likes this.
  5. FortyTwoBlades

    FortyTwoBlades Baryonyx walkeri Dealer / Materials Provider

    Mar 8, 2008
    You could consider it approximately a 120 grit equivalent, but there's no actual grit rating for it 'cause it's made of mixed grits of wildly varying size.
     
  6. GABaus

    GABaus

    92
    May 7, 2017
    I just looked up the american mutt stones and the concept is really intriguing (especially with the price)
     
    FortyTwoBlades likes this.
  7. David Martin

    David Martin Gold Member Gold Member

    Apr 7, 2008
    A photo of one of my favorites. This is a Norton IB-8 India, a coarse / fine stone from 1976. This one is still new and from the Norton plant in Troy, NY. DM
    317.jpg
     
    bucketstove likes this.
  8. pjsjr

    pjsjr Gold Member Gold Member

    Jan 2, 2005
    David, I have and use that same stone, it's a nineties model. I'm going to be buying some diamond stones and was looking in this forum for some ideas. I would appreciate your input. Preston
    [​IMG]
     
    bucketstove likes this.
  9. Mansbestfriend

    Mansbestfriend

    5
    Dec 28, 2018
    DMT course and fine ( hand held butterfly style)
     
  10. koduu

    koduu

    38
    Feb 26, 2018
    Planning to get a diamond stone to set edges on high vanadium steels. Should i aim dmt or are there some cheaper but as good alternatives? Also planning to see how good or not the norton crystolon stones feel on high carbide steels.
     
  11. David Martin

    David Martin Gold Member Gold Member

    Apr 7, 2008
    @pjsjr , I use the dia sharp and have the x-coarse, coarse, fine and X-fine . The best value on one site I looked at is the 2X6" double sided in coarse / fine for 58$. I know you like the 2X8" size stone and those are 59$ for a single grit stone. If you only sharpen 2-4 knives a month you won't need the others. Will you miss your 2X8" size? I mostly only use diamond plates if the steel has vanadium and that is the finishing stone. Good luck. DM
     
    pjsjr likes this.
  12. tueller

    tueller

    Mar 16, 2012
    I often bounce around trying various stones/systems but always come back to my Spyderco Sharpmaker which I finish with a strop.
     
  13. David Martin

    David Martin Gold Member Gold Member

    Apr 7, 2008

    I think this is a good idea. Look at the coarse / fine in a 2x6" stone, they are very economical. They need a break-in period and the fine is only 280 grit so
    your last strokes should be light. Strop it if you like and this will bring the edge up a step. Good luck, DM
     
    koduu likes this.
  14. Mansbestfriend

    Mansbestfriend

    5
    Dec 28, 2018
    I also have cheaper equivalent to DMT from Axminster. I find it very scratchy in comparison....I have also have a DMT fine bench block style. I have had it for 20 years or so. They are made very well.
     
  15. Retired45

    Retired45

    46
    Feb 22, 2016
    I have a number of stones both Arkansas and water stones. But I've gotten lazy and now I'm using a set of spyderco bench stones. If I have a need for something more coarse I have a 6x2 dmt coarse/fine combo. Even though I've gotten lazy I don't want to give up my other stones, especially my old Norton crystolon.
     
  16. FortyTwoBlades

    FortyTwoBlades Baryonyx walkeri Dealer / Materials Provider

    Mar 8, 2008
    If using Spyderco bench stones for most of your sharpening work you'll need to to periodically dress the surfaces of them to expose fresh cutting grit since they won't shed it on their own.
     
  17. Easyrider

    Easyrider

    Jan 31, 2000
    My sharpening kit is much more modest than some other members here. I have an older (previous version than the current one) Spyderco Shapmaker, a set of medium and set of fine Spyderco sharpening benchstones and a Work Sharp belt sharpener, the Ken Onion edition if that matters.

    The Work Sharp is by far the fastest way to get a good edge on a blade. I use it primarily for my Wife’s kitchen knives. It seems more suited to larger knives. I have sharpened my Spyderco Navigator and Dragonfly 2 with it but using the benchstones give me more satisfaction. The Spyderco stick system is a great way to learn and it is also fairly quick.

    If the person has the money then I would recommend the Work Sharp. The benchstones are not necessarily any better at getting an edge for me but I do get a great deal of satisfaction using them.
     
  18. kreisler

    kreisler

    264
    May 11, 2012
    [​IMG]


    Since the double stone is so inexpensive (FT: bulk 3.xx$, AMZN: retail 9.xx$) i bought several units with the natural WHITE10000. Here my comments on the product quality itself: The natural side comes in a "mirror" finish, perfectly smooth like a window glass surface. Unlike window glass, however, the natural side does get consumed the harder you exert pressure on the blade; you'd see blackened powder forming at the blade edge and you'd see how the stone surface looses its mirror reflectiveness! Unfortunately, for this side to be effective one does have to exert notable pressure during the sharpening back-forward motion. The stone consumption alters the stone finish and makes the stone's nominal grit rating drop gradually (10000…9000…8000…etc). I don't think that dishing out is a practical problem with the WHITE10000 or GREEN10000 but hardcore users of these natural sides would eventually run into the task of stone maintenance (trueing / dressing / lapping / flattening), just to restore an even 8000-grit rating across the entire surface not just in the middle section. I will experiment more with that, maybe i manage to lap the natural side on my marble windowsill. Obviously, no homeboy will ever be able to restore the 10000-grit rating, i.e. the original mirror finish ex-factory. (But that's true with the Spyderco 204M 204F 204UF too: once you consume the triangle edges, the original grit rating is forever gone and cannot be restored, realistically.)
    [​IMG]
    I spent tens of hours with this double stone and in my hands the natural side is indeed useful/effective, even though i can't recommend it to anyone else. Fortunately i didn't buy it for its natural side but for the beloved ruby side ("RUBY3000"). I venture to claim that the ruby stone is the very best whetstone coming out of PRC. As "wonderful" as Spyderco white ceramics: whoever experienced how wonderfully the Spyderco ceramics works will be equally enthusiastic about the ruby. (Needless to say, beginners cannot appreciate the wonders of HQ stones, they will think that both stones are just stupid stones haha.)

    So i keep the stone in my Olight H1 Nova storage case on my windowsill, ready to be grabbed right away. Using some light oil is key (for sharpening and for cleaning). I learned that 204-sharpening works great with all kinds of blades (convex or recurved) but is not recommendable for straight blades (like razor blades); 204-sharpening a straight razor blade will eventually develop a recurved blade shape. So for trapezoidal Stanley utility blades (and my other straight blade knives) this double stone is my goto stone. For all my other knives (EDC knives, kitchen knives, all with a convex blade) I'd either choose 204-freehanding or ruixin-freehanding (with a Ruixin stone on a rag on the desktop or with the double stone in my left hand), depending on my mood.

    The rag on the desktop is equally important for two reasons:

    1. stone (Ruixin or 204) slip-resistance
    2. stone (Ruixin or 204) tiltability("pivot response")
    Feel free to share your thoughts on the ruby wonders, the 204-freehanding, or the ruixin-freehanding.
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2019
    bucketstove likes this.

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