Sheath make-ification

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Apr 10, 2007
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I'd like to try my hand at making a leather sheath but I don't know where to find materials. I have no experience so I'd like to find a source for cheap stuff, scraps, etc. so I can mess up the first few. Any suggestions?
 
Also at the tandy store they probably do a leather working class on Saturdays. Ask the manager.
 
Tandy may not be the best leather but for the price its not bad. Once you stamp it dye it youd be hard pressed to see the difference. Buy the front shoulder, I just bought 2 fronm tandy for 21 dollars each and that paid for my new membership . Without the membeship for whole sale buying it was 35 bucks for 4/5 or 6/7 . I use alot of 5 oz and some 6/7. you need vegtable tanned leather to shape and stamp . Fielblings dye is the best and about 8 bucks for 4 oz. Get some medium sized rappid rivots and a few snaps. One front shoulder should make 15 to 20 sheaths.
 
Forgot to mention get some eco flow super sheen to water proof the sheath . Its excellent.
 
I'd like to try my hand at making a leather sheath but I don't know where to find materials. I have no experience so I'd like to find a source for cheap stuff, scraps, etc. so I can mess up the first few. Any suggestions?

The same amount of planning and labor goes into a sheath made with substandard, cheap material as goes into one made from first rate leather and materials. I strongly believe that if you start with crap, when you finish it will still be crap. If you are seriously committed to learning to make sheaths then do yourself a big favor and get the very best of everything you can possibly afford. As a start, investigate leather from Wickett and Craig. I use the utility skirting and they will split to whatever thickness you require free of charge. In addition they have four pre dyed colors and I use all four. To start I'd recommend you stick with Russet as you can dye it any color you like. Now through the end of December they are selling 8/10 oz sides (once again they split to your specifications) for $100 per side plus freight. That is about a $40 to $50 per side savings for really great leather.

Good luck, I'll look forward to seeing what you produce.

Paul
 
Just thought I'd point out... Paul, sheathmaker, is Paul Long, the guy a whole bunch of the custom makers/collectors use for top-of-the-line sheaths. While I can see $100 being a lot to spend on leather at one time, I would generally take this man's advice as nigh-gospel.
 
The same amount of planning and labor goes into a sheath made with substandard, cheap material as goes into one made from first rate leather and materials. I strongly believe that if you start with crap, when you finish it will still be crap. If you are seriously committed to learning to make sheaths then do yourself a big favor and get the very best of everything you can possibly afford. As a start, investigate leather from Wickett and Craig. I use the utility skirting and they will split to whatever thickness you require free of charge. In addition they have four pre dyed colors and I use all four. To start I'd recommend you stick with Russet as you can dye it any color you like. Now through the end of December they are selling 8/10 oz sides (once again they split to your specifications) for $100 per side plus freight. That is about a $40 to $50 per side savings for really great leather.

Good luck, I'll look forward to seeing what you produce.

Paul


I figured that would be the case. I thought if I started with low cost-stuff it might at least give me a feel for working with leather and I wouldn't cry if I cut something too short. I can see the value of starting with quality stuff though and I'll take your advice. Thanks!
 
For someone who has yet to build project no. 1, I don't know if it's a good idea to start out by buying a whole side of leather like he would have to at W&C.
At Tandy you can buy scraps plenty big enough to make sheaths and other projects......by the pound.....you can make maybe 10 of them for about $10 worth of leather.....the way to start out IMO.
 
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One I like using for larger leather quantities is Siegel of California. Paul, how does this compare to Wickett and Craig?
 
A couple of times when I have needed good veg-tanned leather for a sheath on short notice, I have looked up my local custom saddler. (There are several in my area, as this is cowboy country.) They will probably have good waxed nylon thread or even artificial synew on hand to sell you a bit of.. often for ten bucks you can get a pretty nice scrap of leather off one of those guys. Maybe even learn something, too. I got a piece of horse leather (11-12 oz.) that I loved working with in this way one time. I use it often now.
 
I went ahead and ordered the Tandy catalog to see what they offer and it came today. Pretty neat stuff! The tools really caught my eye but I'm overwhelmed at this point. Is it better to get tools second hand? Which tools should I pick up first? Also, and I'm sure this has been asked a billion times, any good links for beginners? Anybody in northern New Hampshire need an apprentice? Sorry for the mass-questioning I'd like to undertake a project the right way, for once. :D
 
I strongly believe that if you start with crap, when you finish it will still be crap. As a start, investigate leather from Wickett and Craig.
Like Paul said (or at least kind of), "You can't make chicken salad out of chicken sh**".

Paul Long and Sandy Morrissey turned me on to Wickett and Craig leather, and I have never looked back.

"Tandy-not-so-dandy" is a good place to buy low grade import tools, and even dyes and leather treatments, but their leather isn't the best. I know, I spent many, many bucks there before I found the right stuff.

Robert
 
For anyone who wants to do leathercraft, this book is indispensible. No one should be without one; it is somewhat the "bible" for sewing leather. I highly suggest that you order one.

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Mike L.
LoGiudice Custom Knives
 
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Thanks for the tips and advice. I think I'm going to go for a piece of utility skirting from W&C and some basic tools from yard sales, antique shops and Tandy. I also found this little guide http://beknivessite2.homestead.com/pouchsheath.html and was wondering if this is a decent place to start.

That tuturial is pretty good. It definately tells will get you to where you can make a completed sheath. If you can, get the Al Stohlman book and the Chuck Burrows video though. With those two, you will know how to complete a sheath that looks MUCH better than the one on that tuturial.

This is probably about the third or fourth sheath that I'd ever made, and it was done after getting both of the mentioned references:

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It looks like you've caught the knife bug. Keep asking questions.

Mike L.
 
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I will second Chuck Burrows (aka Wild Rose) sheath making video. It is one of the most informative and best-produced videos I own. My sheath making quality improved by a factor of 10 after the first watch, and I've watched the two DVD video now about 4 times. Chuck is an excellent teacher, and it is easy to learn from his words.

Oh, and I agree. Sheath advice from Paul Long IS gospel in the world of leathercraft. Paul, GREAT work on that Bruce Bump raffle knife sheath!!

--nathan
 
"Tandy - not so dandy". First time I ever heard it called that but it is about the best description I've heard for the company. It was true for the original company and as far as I can tell nothing has changed with the new company.
 
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