Sheath making part 1

Below are photos of the sheath whose crafting was described and shown in this thread:

cgbatac-green-snakeskin-cb-1.jpg


cgbatac-green-snakeskin-cb-4.jpg


cgbatac-green-snakeskin-cb-2.jpg


cgbatac-green-snakeskin-cb-3.jpg


Thanks again, Chuck, for an outstanding sheath!
 
Chuddy... your edges do it for me in a most disturbing way... :eek: ;)

Another question if I may.... when I made my very first sheath, my edges after sanding and then using edging gum to seal the edge, started to show gaps in them down the side of the sheath...

Any suggestions?? I think it is probably partly that I needed to stitch closer to the edge, and partly that the contact cement didn't go right to the edges... sound about right??


I have also ordered a small 118ml bottle of black dye, so that I can re-dye my edges (the shoulder leather I got was pre-dyed, so after cutting it, it needs to be re-coloured). Do you water the dye down?? Or will 118ml last only 1 or 2 sheaths?


Cheers bud


Alex
 
hawkinsa21 said:
Chuddy... your edges do it for me in a most disturbing way... :eek: ;)

Another question if I may.... when I made my very first sheath, my edges after sanding and then using edging gum to seal the edge, started to show gaps in them down the side of the sheath...

The gaps will happen over time, leather is relatively soft and it does stretch over time.

Any suggestions?? I think it is probably partly that I needed to stitch closer to the edge, and partly that the contact cement didn't go right to the edges... sound about right??

You need to think of contact cement as just a temporary substance that is only meant to hold your sheath together until you can sand and stitch it. Do not count on the glue to actually hold anything together once it is stitched.
Did you harden the leather at all?


I have also ordered a small 118ml bottle of black dye, so that I can re-dye my edges (the shoulder leather I got was pre-dyed, so after cutting it, it needs to be re-coloured). Do you water the dye down?? Or will 118ml last only 1 or 2 sheaths?

It depends on the size of the sheath. I havent tried any water in my dye but I do use 70% rubbing alcohol. The dyes straight out of the bottle with the exception of black, will almost always never come out right if put on with a wool dauber, unless you soak the leather in water first.

For me getting the dye job right has been the hardest and most frustrating part of sheath making. I have spent a good deal of time experimenting with dyes to get them to come out right. I havent found any good tutorials on how to do it right, must be some kind of leather worker secret or something.:D




Cheers bud


Alex
Click to expand...

Alex I hope that helps.
 
Thanks for your reply Chuddy :)

Firstly, the leather came pre-dyed, so whether this has any 'hardening' I am not sure... I haven't personally used anything to make it harder... I personally believe that my stitches were a bit too far in, and the gluing wasn't accurate enough... practice I guess...


The rubbing alcohol bit... do you mean you use a 70% mix, i.e. 70 alcohol and 30 dye, or is this rubbing alcohol actually called, 70% rubbing alcohol? :p


Lastly, what types of thread are you using, or which do you prefer?? I have just bought some huge 1mm thick pre-waxed cord, which is super strong, and looks like it's a great choice, but I am unsure on the size of drill bit.. I've been using a 1mm drill bit when stitching with normal thread, but obviously saddle stitching a 1mm thread in a 1mm hole, will mean an overlap of thread, equaling 2mm... I guess just move up one size, but if you can recommend a bit size, that'd be fantastic...


Again, many thanks for all your help here... I aim to get good at this stuff... and I find it immensely good fun.. as I'm sure you do! :thumbup:


Alex
 
hawkinsa21 said:
Thanks for your reply Chuddy :)

Firstly, the leather came pre-dyed, so whether this has any 'hardening' I am not sure... I haven't personally used anything to make it harder... I personally believe that my stitches were a bit too far in, and the gluing wasn't accurate enough... practice I guess...


The rubbing alcohol bit... do you mean you use a 70% mix, i.e. 70 alcohol and 30 dye, or is this rubbing alcohol actually called, 70% rubbing alcohol? :p


Lastly, what types of thread are you using, or which do you prefer?? I have just bought some huge 1mm thick pre-waxed cord, which is super strong, and looks like it's a great choice, but I am unsure on the size of drill bit.. I've been using a 1mm drill bit when stitching with normal thread, but obviously saddle stitching a 1mm thread in a 1mm hole, will mean an overlap of thread, equaling 2mm... I guess just move up one size, but if you can recommend a bit size, that'd be fantastic...


Again, many thanks for all your help here... I aim to get good at this stuff... and I find it immensely good fun.. as I'm sure you do! :thumbup:


Alex
Click to expand...

The leather will harden after it gets wet and is dried quickly, most times the dye added to the leather does a good enough job, if you are not dying it I get the leather wet and dry it in a dehydrator, it doesnt come out crunchy or anything but it does harden it.

The rubbing alcohol comes in a 70% mixture straight from the bottle, the other 30% is water.

I then mix the rubbing alcohol with the dye, around a 50-50 mixture of each, I do almost all of the colors differently so it gets hard to generalize, I did a lot of experimenting to figure out the best way for me. To top that off different lots of the same color come out different shades using the same dye.
I have only used nylon waxed thread, as far as the drill bit, just drill some holes in scrap and see which bit works so that the second needle going through is snug but not too tight, if it is too easy use a smaller bit, if you cant pull the second one through go bigger.
 
I almost always use 5 per inch. I Have tried 6 and 7 per inch, but that gets a little too close for sheath work, ie the holes are too close together.
 
You must use what, about a 1mm, 1/32" or 3/64" drill bit? Do you use a collet in your Dremel or the small chuck ?
 
I use from a 1/32 up to 5/32. It all depends on the size of the thread and the thickness of the leather. I used to test it out by drilling a hole smaller than I thought I would need, and then run the size needle and thread I was going to use, the first should go through with a little resistance and the second should require a push from the backside with a gloved hand. If the needle pops through and stabs your hand it is too small.:D , if it goes in really easy it is too big. After a while you wont need to even think about it you will just know what size to use.

When I double back at the start and finish of the stitching I need a pair of pliers to pull the last needle through. Just a hint, I use a pair of leather work gloves with the tips of the fingers cut off when stitching. I use the palm of my gloved hand to push the needle most of the way through and then pull it out with my fingers. When you get to the end stitches put an extra piece of leather in your glove to help push the needle through. I learned the hard way that a needle into your palm really hurts. Hope this helps.
 
Great tutorials. I, for one, would love whateverknowledge you care to impart. Thanks
 
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