Shield for the Disk Grinder

Patrice Lemée

Patrice Lemée

Joined
Aug 13, 2002
Messages
5,703
First I have to thank Nick Wheeler for his help and for convincing me, through his post about it, to use the disk grinder for blade grinding. All I can say is WOW! It is taking a little time to get used to it but I am sure I won't be making a flat ground knife without it from now on. :thumbup:

Only thing I did not like it that when grinding post HT, I dipped the blade quite often and the disk flung sludge back in my face. So I came up with this quick shield for it. Easy enough to reverse and attaches to the brackets for the rest. Only drawback it that the way it is shaped I am limited to 9-10” blades but that will do for now. I am already thinking about a better one on a circular rail above the grinder and shaped to allow longer blades.





I was also pleasantly surprised that it helps the dust collector port underneath do a better job by creating some kind of vortex.

Maybe it can be helpful to some of you.

Thanks for looking.
 
Patrice, I have to say that I've come to look forward to your posts showing shop tips and setup. I love your clean designs and no-nonsense approach. This guard is a perfect example of what I appreciate about everything you have to share. Great simple and effective design.

Now I just need to build a disc grinder so I can put in a guard and dust collection tray...

J-
 
Cool. I often have as much fun building tools and equipment to use while making knives as the knives themselves. Thanks for sharing.
 
Patrice you should start a new business "Lean & clean consulting" to help some of us less clean folk out with our grim ;0) although I suspect it would be hard on you, you would likely faint after spending 10 minutes in my shop, my tools tend to be scattered around a bit, on a good note I try real hard to keep the dust at bay, Once a week when the weather is good I open the shop and blow everything off with compressed air
 
J, I am glad you like the shop setup tips. I do appreciate you taking the time to say so, make sit all worthwhile. :thumbup: When I first started I was making things more complicated than they needed to be. Now the fun part is seeing how simple I can make and still perform as well. Funny thing is that often, while simplifying the design, I end up with something that works even better. Guess the K.i.s.s. principle really works. :)

i4Marc, I hear you. I often have to force myself to stop working on the shop itself and go back to making knives. :o

John, funny thing is that if I lived closer to some of you guys I would love to lend a hand with shop organization and cleaning. :thumbup:

Thanks for your support guys.
 
You could'a just wiped the water off the blade. ;) :p

I'm glad to hear you're playing with the disc and getting it figured out! :)
 
Kinda seems like cheating...
Can you really call yourself a knife-maker if your pores aren't caked with grit and you can't see out of your glasses?
- ha ha. Great little set-up.
I actually plan to mount a compressed air-nozzle so that it blows air on the blade as I grind it instead of that annoying water.
 
Makers, if you are going to a disc grinder, buy a Rod Nielsen magnetic hub to place on your own motor. You will also get with it three or four discs that allow you to have a different size grits without having to destroy one size to get another on. As well, a variable speed for this machine gets an amazing yes amazing more use out of the sand paper. On fine grits I run mine about 30% and yes that really does the job; with 60 grit I operate the disc at about 60%. Frank
 
When the setup is variable reversing its really hard to go back to a belt.
(helps greatly with water slinging) easier to do "dead flats" and not near
as easy to cut thru the spine as a belt. I do usually hog on a wheel at 60
grit, then right to 180 and on up on the disc, sure cuts down on hand
sanding.
Ken.
 
Matthew wins the internet! I was just being goofy and he gave an answer that was unexpected, clever, and correct.... Wow.
 
Elementfe, sorry I forgot to mention it but this is a 1 degree bevelled disk from Rob at Beaumont. (I didn't know there was a decimal equivalent for degrees by the way :o) So this was mainly for dust/sludge but I guess it would also provide some degree of protection in case of a slip-up.

NickWheeler said:
You could'a just wiped the water off the blade. ;) :p
Click to expand...

Darn, why didn't I think of that. :o;)

Kidding aside, even if I wiped it off, there is still some small amount of grit that gets thrown back. This takes care of that and I save time by not having to wipe the blade. And believe me, with the time it takes me to do a blade, every little bit helps. :o

Michael, do you think air would be enough to cool it down? Now a water cooled disk on the other hand would be great but I have no idea how that would work. :confused:

Frank I will look at the Nielsen disks. :thumbup:

Ken, I'll give that a try.

Thanks a bunch for your help guys.
 
My main curiosity is how to handle the plunge... Do you just do that on the 2x72?

I have tried using my 9" disc over and over and I always go back to the 2x72. When I hear knowledgeable people praising this method I listen, but it just hasn't been working for me so far.
 
Neilsen also includes a beveled disc with his set up. In truth I am just really "getting into" this disc grinding thing. As well you can use a disc with the prescribed thin cork overlay and polish the blades using green chrome. I'm believing what people tell me they can do but not all the way there yet. As well I do like the hollow grinds more than the flats so it keeps me on the 2 X 72. Yes, Ken, I do a lot of hand sanding. Frank
 
I just ordered the Neilsen magnetic hub and four disks last week. Three of the disks will be beveled at 1 degree. The fourth disk will be a flat one with a rear bevel for getting into tight spots. I'll post some photos once I receive it and get it set up.

Mike L.
 
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