Short survival machete ****Large pics****

Lazlo,
For my knife he charged $75 but his pricing is relatively flat, last year he cut out a huge piece (about 4'x4') for me for around $100.

Frank,
Why do you think the handle will not be comfortable? I have really big hands and the handle fills them as perfectly as a simple shape can. Also the weight is still there, this thing weighs about 2 pounds. Great name by the way.

Daniel and Fluid thanks, I think I will try that. I intend to use it as a spacer between the steel and the g10.

-Frank the Tank
 
I know I said I'd shut up about it but seeing Frank Niro's post and your question back to him has me typing. ;) :)

A straight and uniform/symmetrical shape is expected in a top flight, high end dagger.... but for most any other type of knife... a straight, symmetrical handle usually indicates mass production because it's simple to machine and requires only a narrow piece of steel.

Even a $5 hardware store machete has a handle with some drop at the butt end, and a shape that will be easily cradled in the hand. And that is for so many good reasons!

Just stop and take a look at your hand, wide open, and closed as if gripping something. Yes, the human hand has the ability to adapt to a completely symmetrical shape.... but for the body positioning that we take when hacking/slashing, the hand/wrist/arm/shoulder NATURALLY form to something that a DROPPED AND CONTOURED handle will flow with.

Google any competition cutting knife, and you'll find a large knife with a lot of drop in the butt end of the handle, and contours. You will not find a straight/symmetrical handle on a single one of them.

So my gut instinct is that this knife will not do what you want it to--- OPTIMALLY. Will it cut stuff up? I'd hope to shout. Will it be uncomfortable after much more than 5 minutes of use? Most definitely. But I won't just say it won't work... rather I invite you to finish the knife, then go out and test it for at least an hour. Even more better if you take video of your testing. And then let us know how you feel about a straight handle for a hacking knife. I THINK!!! You'll feel differently.... but I am wrong a lot.

I certainly do commend you on starting something complex and actually following through. Even those of us around here that are not hot on your design, respect and appreciate the follow-up/follow-through, as that is NOT the norm for a guy getting started with a lot of questions and ideas.

So just to be very clear, I think it's great that you're putting the effort in and seeing it through!!! :)
 
Over my time here on Bladeforums I have learned that if Nick says something I listen closely.

I do hope it turns out great!
 
What did you choose for steel??? If it's a carbon steel that can be forged, a sweep to the handle might be possible, even after you finish it...
Follow your muse, but that's the beauty of forging with a project like that....I'm sure you could meet a bladesmith in the area if needed.
Carry on!
 
Frank Niro said:
I think that machete is a useless piece !!! You took the weight out of it and by doing so made it a real hang up thing when trying to chop. The handle would have you blistered and bleeding in no time. Frank
Click to expand...

No more useless than your criticism.

I'm not trying to be snappy, but Frank Lima may very well find out soon enough about the downfalls of his design. Merely pointing out what he's already about to discover doesn't do him any good at all.

I think Nick took the proper avenue by not only telling him what was wrong with it, but also how he might make it right for future designs.

That being said, if the design truly doesn't work out for you Frank L., you've made a heck of a cricket paddle. ;)

I kid, I kid.
 
EDIT: NVM! I see you did many changes. What I was commenting on, you have addressed with those changes.
 
The reason i went with a strait handle is because it needs to be reversible in order to effectively use the Serrated blade side. By this i mean i need to comfortably grip the handle such that the main blade is facing away from me as well as be able to comfortably grip the knife with the Serrated blade facing me. As for the pommel its big and flat to give one a hard service to pound on when using the chisels.

After a quick google i found this pic (not my work):
cutterat800onnewtable.jpg


I think this knife illustrates Nicks point if only a bit exaggerated. But at the same time i feel that this blade illustrates how angling the handle makes it harder to use the other side of the blade.

-Frank Lima
 
Frank, while I'm not a big fan of serrated -anything other than a bread knife-, I understand your reasoning. My gut reaction is that you're limiting the knife's ability to OPTIMALLY perform its major function (hacking/slashing) ... in order to add the ability to have a sort of saw... which IMHO would be better left to an inexpensive folding saw. But that's just me. The fact that you actually have reasons behind what you're doing beyond, "Cuz I wanna!" is good enough for me. :)

I applaud you for using your google-fu...!!! :) And you are right, that is exactly what I was talking about and in an exaggerated, cutting comp sort of way. And it does indeed also show how a heavily dropped handle does NOT make for a reversible grip knife! ;) :)

Thanks for taking my words as constructive criticism and not anything else Frank. :thumbup: :cool: :)
 
Update time:
Bring the steel down to the right thickness
2011-07-27_19-06-15_747.jpg

After milling the chisel tip
2011-07-28_13-09-14_106.jpg

adding the main blade
2011-07-28_14-16-52_793.jpg

after milling
2011-07-28_14-34-13_827.jpg

2011-07-28_14-34-40_448.jpg


I will add the serrated blade tomorrow (time permitting) then send the blade off to be heat treated and start on the handles.

-Frank the Tank
 
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Frank, you're making good progress!
The blade stock is .25" correct? If so I think you will find the primary edge bevel is too obtuse for good cutting performance. On the other hand, it will be heck for stout for prying.
 
Hi guys,
i am done putting the serrations in and i sand blasted the blade.
2011-07-29_17-32-41_879.jpg

2011-07-29_17-33-25_295.jpg

2011-07-29_17-33-35_69.jpg

2011-07-29_17-33-51_566.jpg

Next step heat treat and making the handles. I will be re-tramming the mill on Monday wooohooo!!!!! Also the mill is Chevalier not a Bridgeport.

-Frank the Tank

ps. Steve i thought you were right so i milled the main blade down some.

pps. Any ideas on a name?
 
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Frank, that's better as a starting point to work from - it will still be outrageously tough but gain some better cutting/chopping performance. A note on the inside profile of the butt: consider changing this from perpendicular to an angle and when the scales are on blending things well. This will allow you to shift your grip farther back when wanting to increase chopping power or reach.
 
Frank Lima said:
pps. Any ideas on a name?
Click to expand...

That looks Awesome! I like almost everything about it (i would do the handle differently but to each his own) Perhaps consider thinkening up the pommel a bit so you can use that chisel as a wood splitter... much like a wedge. I think that chisel will work well for giving you leverage.

possible name "The Jungle Splitter" "Jungle Cutter" "Forest Razor"?
 
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