Should a Manix look like this?

H

Hamon

Joined
Jun 19, 2004
Messages
377
Let's start with the picture..

TravKnives087.jpg


Now the story..

This Manix I've had for about a year. It has seen a ton of hard use. When I first got it, I was a landscaper, and as soon as I got this knife, it became my new carry knife. It cut sod, line trimmer (weedeater) line, brush on occasion, and was used for pruning once when no pruners were thrown in the truck and some rose bushes needed pruning.

Next, this Manix saw use during a job doing window prep and other waterproofing on new construction. It was used to cut Tyvek and other small jobs, and one day, it was used to cut roofing flashing when no tin snips were around. This was performed by batoning the Manix through the flashing with a framing hammer. Light marks were seen on the spine afterwards, but other than that, no real damage other than some dulling occured.

Finally, let's get to how I broke it.

I was working the past few weeks planting perennials and decorative grasses in a field. We had to move irrigation one day, and some branches were getting in the way. Thinking nothing of it, I pulled out my Manix, found a suitable baton, and batoned my way halfthrough the offending branch (2 inch diameter) when I heard a bit of a snap or ping, saw 3/4" of the tip of my Manix missing, and felt a sick feeling in my stomach. The baton must have hit at a poor angle resulting in a break.

The break is, for the most part, straight on. It did not tear, but instead broke cleanly. I have contacted Spyderco about the best possible course of action for repair or replacement of the knife, and they said that all they could do was regrind the tip... I have access to grinders and cooling tanks, so I think I'm going to do it myself..

A question I have for you folks is: What type of tip would you like to see on this Manix? I've considered several things, including a straight on 90 degree prying tip, an angular reverse tanto type point, or bringing the drop point down in a curving manner. Suggestions?

By the way, I truly hope this will be taken in a positive manner. I'm not trying to start controversy or bash Spyderco. In fact, I can totally understand that this was completely my doing, and although in my opinion batoning is not necessarily misuse or abuse of the knife, accidents do happen.

There ya go folks! Hope it was interesting for you to see.

Travis
 
Last edited:
I'd be fun to keep the blade shape as is, but grind that nice big vertical edge like a chisel. A bit OT, but I like your home jimping, how well does it help with retention?
 
The jimping works extremely well. Along with the texturing on the corners, I sanded the clip side of the G10 down slightly so it wouldn't tear pockets, and the tension on the clip has been increased a fair amount.

Another note on the jimping: I did it mostly for better retention with gloves. There is no way that this thing will pop out accidentally, even with extended use in wet conditions.

Travis
 
Regrinding this knife will leave you with a very short blade. Perhaps you will be better off getting a new one.

You could always keep this one for the hard use work you do and use the newer one for less demanding jobs.

The sort of work you do would be perfect for a fixed blade too. You might want to look at a graham razel, these babys are designed to be abused.
 
I'm with Andre and Sgt, that Manix has served you well.

It deserves a proper burial.

Gives you an excuse for new Spyderco(s) also :)
 
Hamon said:
In fact, I can totally understand that this was completely my doing, and although in my opinion batoning is not necessarily misuse or abuse of the knife, accidents do happen.

Travis
Click to expand...

I just don't see how any of what you described is proper use of a knife.
[edited for politeness: Please be sure, in the future, to have available and select a better, more appropriate tool for the job.]

But as long as you're not upset that your Manix is pretty much a wreck, why should I be?
 
I think this is the perfect opportunity to grind some of the spine off to make a kind of Manix/Yojimbo hybrid.

Enter the Mojimbo!:D
 
peacefuljeffrey said:
I just don't see how any of what you described is proper use of a knife.
But as long as you're not upset that your Manix is pretty much a wreck, why should I be?
Click to expand...

Jeffrey, to be honest, what you said came off a little strong. To say that nothing that I described is proper use of a knife is a little bit exaggerated. I use my knives, and my Manix I have used the hardest. It has been necessary at some points in time to abuse it, and when I did such, I understood the risks I was taking. I "thought nothing of" the Manix in a batoning manner because I have done this several times before with little to no damage. Obviously, my attitude allowed me to make a mistake.




Sherlockbonez, I was hitting the knife on the blade at the only place the blade was exposed, which was near the tip. The angle at which I was batoning allowed a glancing blow quite easily, which resulted in the break. This has taught me that I should take more care in directing each hit with a baton in a more controlled fashion.



For those that suggested fixed blades and multitools, both options I have been wary about simply because I find them a little bulky and awkward to carry on my person whereas a folding knife like a Manix or an Endura sit in the pocket with little chance of snagging when I'm working. I'm not entirely closed to the idea of a fixed blade, but I'd need a sheath that can both accomplish the task of staying "low drag" so to speak, and easily accessible, without looking ominous in any way.

Thanks for your input.

Travis
 
I read that you should only baton near the choil/ handle side and not towards the tip...don't know where the link went, will find later.

I also use my manix (mini) at work, and was thinking about getting a sheath from onscenetact that would accompany both my multitool as well as my manix...something to think about.
 
If you made it into a chisel tip, how much would stick above the handle when closed?

A Wharncliffe might be the better route.

Good luck,
Allen
 
Hamon said:
Calling into question my judgment as a craftsman was ridiculous. That's all I have to say about that, and will not pursue that comment further.
Click to expand...

I agree, that was very rude and unnecessary.

I would also say that the only mistake you made was sloppy batoning, and I doubt the blade would have broken had you been using proper technique, which is just an honest mistake. That knife is made to be used hard, so don't let anybody make you feel bad about how you chose to use it.

If you choose to regrind, a stout reverse tanto type shape would probably serve you best, leaving some tip to work with, but still being stronger than the original, thin, leaf-shaped blade.

I also second the recommendation of a fixed blade. If you care to know, I know of some blades that are roughly the same size as the Manix, open, that would handle anyhting you could possibly give them, and even if you did break it, the company would replace it, no questions asked, for the rest of your life, guaranteed. If you get the right sheath made, they can be very easy to carry. I, too, was reluctant to take the plunge into fixed blades, but once you do, you realize how much superior they are in terms of performance.
 
Hi Travis.

Looks like your knife has been working hard.

What did you use to baton the blade?

You might want to send it in and let me have a look?

sal
 
Mr. Glesser, this is a good reason why Spyderco should plan for maintenance by desiging a knife for repair and stock replacement parts. Spyderco would then be able to truly repair a knife with a blade replacement. Other companies, your direct competitors, do the same for knives that are 10 years old. How 'bout a change for the future?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top