Should a Manix look like this?

Regrinding the blade is a good choice. In your line of work, it shouldn't be difficult to access the tools to do it without ruining the temper. The profile will be dictated by where the broken corner lies above the handle when closed. Keep it and use it as you always have. Get a new one to use as a regular cutter. If you get it repaired, you'll be hesitant to continue using it as a basher. Everyone needs a quality basher :) . Regards, ss.
 
brownshoe said:
Mr. Glesser, this is a good reason why Spyderco should plan for maintenance by desiging a knife for repair and stock replacement parts. Spyderco would then be able to truly repair a knife with a blade replacement. Other companies, your direct competitors, do the same for knives that are 10 years old. How 'bout a change for the future?
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Hi Mr. Brownshoe. I agreewith you in principal, but...realistically, it is just too much for us. 20 - 30 new models per year, 10 - 20 "refinements" per year, for year and years. Too many different parts, too many parts that are very close, too much cost for inventory, etc. We're having a hard time just keeping clips for all of the many models we've built.

In this case, the knife was made in Golden, and it's a current model, so there is a greater chance that we can do something.

sal
 
However you re-grind it make sure the tip of the blade does not stick above the handle when closed.
I agree with the suggestions for a wharncliff type design.
 
Hamon said:
Jeffrey, to be honest, what you said came off a little strong. To say that nothing that I described is proper use of a knife is a little bit exaggerated. I use my knives, and my Manix I have used the hardest. It has been necessary at some points in time to abuse it, and when I did such, I understood the risks I was taking. I "thought nothing of" the Manix in a batoning manner because I have done this several times before with little to no damage. Obviously, my attitude allowed me to make a mistake.

Calling into question my judgment as a craftsman was ridiculous. That's all I have to say about that, and will not pursue that comment further.
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Okay, I think you're right, and I'll go back and edit that out after this. I did not mean a character assassination, and I'm sorry if it came off like that.

I understand that different people have different views on how to use their knives, what is proper, what risks to take, what losses to accept. It's just a little hard for me to adjust to that sometimes when someone talks nonchalantly about using a knife in a manner that I personally feel I would not do.

Hey, if it's your knife, it's up to you what to do with it (short of using it to do harm, of course). I guess the "judgment" comment came out because I've heard so many times, "Use the right tool for the job," and it seems that repeatedly, by your own admission, you didn't make sure to have the right tool, and so instead risked the knife. Again, I'm sorry if I gave insult. I just hope that when/if you get yourself a new Manix, you reserve its use for those applications that won't cause damage to it, and when you need to pry, hammer, chop, etc., and you need to do it to materials that are too tough for a knife, you use the tool that's intended for that job.


P.S. I think you should regrind the blade to look like that of an A.T.R.!!
Cheers,
-Jeffrey
 
Sal Glesser said:
Hi Mr. Brownshoe. I agreewith you in principal, but...realistically, it is just too much for us. 20 - 30 new models per year, 10 - 20 "refinements" per year, for year and years. Too many different parts, too many parts that are very close, too much cost for inventory, etc. We're having a hard time just keeping clips for all of the many models we've built.

In this case, the knife was made in Golden, and it's a current model, so there is a greater chance that we can do something.

sal
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Sal,
Sounds like you need a bigger factory, a bigger warehouse, and a federal government contract to provide knives for every soldier and an NSN for everything in your product line. I suspect that if you were churning out Spydercos to equip our armed forces by contract with the fedgov, you'd have the room. . . :D And who doesn't think that Spyderco should have exactly that?!

-Jeffrey
 
Well, it is a hard use knife, and isn't built just for cutting open envelopes. I don't think he abused it, as I didn't see any mention of prying. But, if one does baton often that could be the result no doubt. The Manix isn't differentially tempered.
 
samhain73 said:
Well, it is a hard use knife, and isn't built just for cutting open envelopes. I don't think he abused it, as I didn't see any mention of prying. But, if one does baton often that could be the result no doubt. The Manix isn't differentially tempered.
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My feeling is that if you are using a pocket knife to cut something that you would have used tin snips to cut if they had been on hand, you are pushing the limit. But again, that's just me. If someone wants to have to do that much sharpening, he can be my guest. :o

-Jeffrey
 
As for the Manix, I like the idea of removing as little material as possible and making a 90 deg. prying edge, remembering S30V can be a bit brittle. As for the next knife, I'd look to Busse/SRKW/SYKO for an EDC sized fixed blade. Hamon, If I had your job, I would probably take advantage of the chance to use my old style SR Howler on a daily basis. :D
 
I sent a Gerber with wounds like that to the factory and they shipped me a new knife. I had asked the cost of repair. Needless to say, I was pleased.

I wouldn't expect a warranty, but it would be nice policy.

Other than that, yeah, I would grind the tip to a chisel point if it can fold up safely. It would make a great gasket scraper for engine repairs.

I'd get an SAK with a saw for stuff like that and work around the need for batoning. Or get a CS Bushman and bash guilt free :)
 
I agree with the others who suggested the 90 degree Razel-like tip. This would not only give you a very useable tool but it would be like that full size Emerson with the snub nose blade. I love that knife.
TC
 
samhain73 said:
Well, it is a hard use knife, and isn't built just for cutting open envelopes. I don't think he abused it, as I didn't see any mention of prying. But, if one does baton often that could be the result no doubt. The Manix isn't differentially tempered.
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Hitting a Busse with a framing hammer is abuse to me. :) In an extreme situation anything goes but a framing hammer is the last thing I'd hit any knife with. The checkering on the hammer face is like hittin it with an array of center punches. It's a testament to the knife that it happened after that. I wonder if the second round of batoning was done with a hammer or metal object?
 
i like to see knives that used hard. I think a Wharncliff blade shape is your best bet.

I also suggest a D'allara DP as a replacement. I think the VG-10 would be less brittle and would stand up to more hard use. It also costs about half as much as the Manix so you can try one out and see what you think. I think it is one of the better knives made by Spyderco for people that need a heavy duty folder.
 
If you look at the knife in the closed position, it will tell you where to grind. Unless you LIKE to bleed profusely, I'd say a 90 degree sharp edged tip is out. Ditto the Tanto point. Reverse Tanto or Wharncliffe would probably work. I would be torn between retiring it and making a Mojimbo myself.
 
I'll try to answer everything that I've seen posted. If I didn't respond to your question, I apologize, and please bring it up a second time if you'd like it answered.

First of all, thank you to Peacefuljeffrey for retracting your comment there. I felt it to be a little harsh, and it is a true sign of solid character to remove such a post. I very much appreciate it.

Next, the issue of the Razel-like tip protruding from the handle has come up. This is very much the case, and if I were to grind a Razel tip on it, I'd drop the spine a little most likely with an angular grind. I think for what I use this knife for, the Razel tip would be the most useful configuration for me.

The item used to baton the knife when it failed was a very wooden piece of fence post.

Using the framing hammer the first instance in which the knife was batoned was only due to the fact that it was an enclosed space and a piece of 2x4 or similar wood would not have enough distance to generate the momentum needed to get through the flashing. I did not have the right tool for the job on that day because 1) It was one of my first days working that job, and I had the bare minimum tools. Thus, I did not expect to have to cut through flashing or any other metal material, as that normally isn't part of the job. 2) It was snowing that day, so all the wiser, more well equipped crews had left early.

Sal, thank you very much for taking personal concern into this manner. That just goes on to strengthen the appreciation I have for Spyderco and the commitment that you folks have to your customers. That being said, I think I may modify the grind on it myself. I think the Razel-like tip may work very well for the tasks that I come across during work.

In my opinion, this was not due to the materials in the knife. I would venture to guess that one of the small indentations made by the prior batoning with the hammer acted as a stress riser, creating a weak point at the point of the break.

J85909266, I've definitely considered going the fixed blade route, especially from the company that I'm assuming you're alluding to. I think at some point in time I am going to break down and at least try one out.

I think I'm going to have to get another full flat grind blade, but not for work use. I have enough beaters to choose from that serve me very well at work (CRKT M1, Benchmade 705 in D2, and now this Manix). I've had my eye on something in ZDP for quite some time, and next weekend, I'll be in Calgary, home of Target Knives, so we'll see if they've got anything in ZDP, let alone with a full flat grind. Who knows... I may find something that'll make my Sebbie nervous..

Again, thanks for your posts and your opinions, folks. Feel free to add more if you've got it, although I already know how stupid I was. Reminders are unnecessary. ;) Heck, gimme a break, I'm only 19 and still learnin'.

Travis
 
I don't see anything wrong with the way you used your knife. except the hammer to the spine. if you do this, take some cardboard or a piece of wood and hit the wood and allow what you hit to hit the knife.

I am actually kinda shocked the blade broke and I would send it into sal.

Everybody has there own opinion on what is and is not abuse and we need to let sal decide what is and what is not, so send it in.
 
brownshoe said:
Other companies, your direct competitors, do the same for knives that are 10 years old. How 'bout a change for the future?
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That's news to me. I didn't know anyone kept parts for that long.

I guess when you keep your knives exactly the same for 10 years, you can afford to do that;)
 
Hamon said:
Again, thanks for your posts and your opinions, folks. Feel free to add more if you've got it, although I already know how stupid I was. Reminders are unnecessary. ;) Heck, gimme a break, I'm only 19 and still learnin'.

Travis
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Hey Travis, send the knife back to Sal. He would probably like to see just how it fractured. He's a knut. Sal will hook a brother up if he can. Notice I didn't say I wouldn't hit my knife with a hammer. I said it would be the last thing I would hit it with. :) You remind me of a friend of mine. Out of all the friends and co-workers I gave knives to, he's the only one who turned into a knife knut. And he is utterly brutal on his knife. He could have paint scraper right next to him and he would still pull out his knife. He would razz me about the knife I gave him, saying it won't stay sharp after cutting a scotch-brite pad atop a metal welding table. :)
 
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