A man who does not heed history, is doomed to repeat the same mistakes over and over again. It's only human; but it's not necessary, especially in the beginning. It's not required that you rediscover the wheel in order to make your mark. Some things in tool design work, while others have been abandoned long ago. No one performs edge packing these days do they?
I'm an inventor at heart. It's how my mind works, yours does as well. We are tool makers. I am always looking for a way to improve on an existing tool. I'll take a tool in hand and ponder, "is there a way it can be designed to work better. It makes sense in making knives as well. As Lawrence stated above, not much improvement in design is needed when handling a Bob Loveless knife; but you can try.
If you take the route of shaping each knife you make using a "new" concept" you are going to be redesigning the wheel.
The slightest change in length and height, an 1/8 of an inch, makes a huge change in how the knife works. Move the tip of a Loveless blade [up] an 1/8 of an inch and it's no longer the same knife.
I am going to copy and paste an above post because I believe it is how a new knife maker should approach knife making. There is time to become another Don Hanson or Bruce Bump, but first you need to learn how and why Bob Loveless was so successful.
I think it would be beneficial for you to spend more time looking at classic designs. Look at the work of seasoned, experienced makers and really try to understand why they shape knives the way they do. The knife has been around almost as long as man. Certain design principles and features are common because they work. Make an effort to recognize these trends and understand what works about them.
I think your knives suffer from bar-itis. You handicap yourself when you start with a bar of steel and attempt to design a knife within those boundaries. Start with a concept and drawings. You can't know how much steel you need until you know what the size and shape of the knife will be. Only after you work out the details on paper (or computer) should you go to steel.
Your handles are all pretty straight. The top sides are all roller coaster rides. You seem to have a fondness for thumb notches but they all fall in different places. The radii for the forefinger behind the heel of the blade are all different shapes and sizes. The handles could use some simplification.
I'm not trying to beat you up. Those designs just show a lack of experience. We get experience by trying and doing. You're on the right path because you are trying and doing. And it's not all bad. Your plunge lines look pretty good and I like the blade shapes of the bottom two. Your bevels also look pretty flat and well finished. I think you just have too much going on in these designs. Try to simplify shapes, make lines more flowing and continuous. Use your hand to test these shapes. Put the blade blank in your hand and mark where your thumb falls on the spine so you can put those notches in the right place. Pick a curve size and shape that feels comfortable and looks good for your forefinger, something closer to design #3. Eliminate unnecessary bumps and wiggles. Make a habit of trying to distill your designs down to their most elegant form and you'll be fine.
I'm guessing were attempting to quote what was said. I'm reading your post and I think, "wait a minute! Isn't he repeating what was already said??!? Plagiarism much?" 
