Show me your Christmas/Hanukkah gift knives!!!

Matt Rochester

Matt Rochester

Joined
Nov 28, 2014
Messages
1,864
I am usually finishing knives for gifts til midnight on Christmas Eve. Well I'm finished a little early this year and it feels great! I love making knives but I especially love giving them as gifts. These are all Cpm154 at 61rc. The top is one of my skinning knives with cocobolo scales and white g10 liners. The middle is a paring knife with California buckeye burl and black g10 liners. The bottom is one of my Bird & Trout knives with figured maple(from Greenberg woods) and the clearish green g10 liners. I hope everyone has a Merry Christmas or Happy Hanukkah! Feel free to share pics of your Christmas/Hanukkah knives.
 
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First for my brother, forged from a leaf spring, tanto blade, acid etched, figured monkey pod scales, tooled leather sheath.
Next for the wife's uncle, also forged out of a leaf spring, forge scale left on, box elder burl scales, nickel and brass pins
Last for my dad, you guessed it, forged out of a leaf spring. Hidden tang, copper guard, brass pins, hybrid maple burl/acrylic handle.
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I posted these in another thread, but seeing as u asked...
lPZ7BcE.jpg
 
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IMG_0349.jpgFor my daughter.
Just rough ground and heat treated. Made from Vtoku2 steel.
Have to complete tomorrow!
 
Fochops said:
First for my brother, forged from a leaf spring, tanto blade, acid etched, figured monkey pod scales, tooled leather sheath.
Next for the wife's uncle, also forged out of a leaf spring, forge scale left on, box elder burl scales, nickel and brass pins
Last for my dad, you guessed it, forged out of a leaf spring. Hidden tang, copper guard, brass pins, hybrid maple burl/acrylic handle.
1a263f5492ed3bf600f913c94a1ef73e.jpg
2c51c835a81ade599798a11d1de76147.jpg
a6afa492d82dd1a90fb04fac6ed18529.jpg
7be4a4af060806cd89df3c58eda5ee87.jpg
ff33c15e25a00e39643f9b70bba84ed4.png
Click to expand...

A little tip. Try and do all your finish work befor the scales are epoxied in place. This is especaly true when it comes to shaping the guards. That copper guard is going to be fun to finish shape and not mess up you polished handle. It can be done but just take it slow and uses files and tape off the handle. Also when you go to finish sand or grind the edge bevels on the first knife to remove the corse grit from grinding it's nice to not have scales on it so you can clamp it to a bar of steel or block of wood and then clamp that in a vice. Makes hand sanding much easier. Or if belt grinding you don't have to wory about messing up the polished handle. But like the guard if you take your time and use tape it can be done. I wish you the best of luck
 
Fochops said:
First for my brother, forged from a leaf spring, tanto blade, acid etched, figured monkey pod scales, tooled leather sheath.
Next for the wife's uncle, also forged out of a leaf spring, forge scale left on, box elder burl scales, nickel and brass pins
Last for my dad, you guessed it, forged out of a leaf spring. Hidden tang, copper guard, brass pins, hybrid maple burl/acrylic handle.
1a263f5492ed3bf600f913c94a1ef73e.jpg
2c51c835a81ade599798a11d1de76147.jpg
a6afa492d82dd1a90fb04fac6ed18529.jpg
7be4a4af060806cd89df3c58eda5ee87.jpg
ff33c15e25a00e39643f9b70bba84ed4.png
Click to expand...

I thought it was another auto spell gone wrong when I saw monkey pod scales! I have never heard of them but they look nice! Good job bud!
 
Matt R said:
I am usually finishing knives for gifts til midnight on Christmas Eve. Well I'm finished a little early this year and it feels great! I love making knives but I especially love giving them as gifts. These are all Cpm154 at 61rc. The top is one of my skinning knives with cocobolo scales and white g10 liners. The middle is a paring knife with California buckeye burl and black g10 liners. The bottom is one of my Bird & Trout knives with figured maple(from Greenberg woods) and the clearish green g10 liners. I hope everyone has a Merry Christmas or Happy Hanukkah! Feel free to share pics of your Christmas/Hanukkah knives.
Click to expand...

I love that bird and trout, and the skinner too.
This one is for my Grand Daughter. Of 8 she is the only one who had the sense to ask. ;)

1Nakiri-1.jpg
 
JTknives said:
A little tip. Try and do all your finish work befor the scales are epoxied in place. This is especaly true when it comes to shaping the guards. That copper guard is going to be fun to finish shape and not mess up you polished handle. It can be done but just take it slow and uses files and tape off the handle. Also when you go to finish sand or grind the edge bevels on the first knife to remove the corse grit from grinding it's nice to not have scales on it so you can clamp it to a bar of steel or block of wood and then clamp that in a vice. Makes hand sanding much easier. Or if belt grinding you don't have to wory about messing up the polished handle. But like the guard if you take your time and use tape it can be done. I wish you the best of luck
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I wanted the tarnished look on the guard, I ran it on the buffer to speed the process a little.. the "striation" on the blade is tape residue, cleaned off with alcohol. I do appreciate the tips though!
 
Brock47 said:
I love that bird and trout, and the skinner too.
This one is for my Grand Daughter. Of 8 she is the only one who had the sense to ask. ;)

1Nakiri-1.jpg
Click to expand...
How do you finish the slot in the handle without a guard? Get it close and dye the epoxy black?
 
Following that as I would like to know. I am planning on doing something similar. My plan is to drill the handle for a slotted dowel that will sit out of the main handle just a little shy of the depth of the bolster. Once I drill the bolster for the dowel, I will have just a small amount of material to slot and fit for the tang. Of course if Brock has a better way, I'm all ears.
 
Matt R said:
How do you finish the slot in the handle without a guard? Get it close and dye the epoxy black?
Click to expand...

I did a how to post on this just a few months ago, but I use a mini-mill and small bit and cut the tang slot. You can get a very close tolerance with the mill. I usually go slightly undersized and then use the tang itself to size the slot. I just drill the back side of the bolster with a bit bigger drill bit, or mill it, either way. As long as the back slot meets the front. The copper gets milled also, but the rear handle section gets drilled with a bit bigger bit and filled with epoxy. I do color my epoxy black as it looks neater.
 
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