- Joined
- Nov 11, 2009
- Messages
- 1,425
Was going to build a fire tonight for a hang out with the gang, so I decided to get some featherstick practice in there. I think I'm getting a little better![/URL][/IMG]
Yes, you are! Definitely. :thumbup:
Was going to build a fire tonight for a hang out with the gang, so I decided to get some featherstick practice in there. I think I'm getting a little better![/URL][/IMG]
Was going to build a fire tonight for a hang out with the gang, so I decided to get some featherstick practice in there. I think I'm getting a little better![/URL][/IMG]
Yes, you are! Definitely. :thumbup:
Are you a lefty?
I have a blister on my palm that needs to heal by the weekend.
I respect this skill as being very useful and important. But after a while it passes from utility to the primped show dog stage. I could care less about someone fuzzing up the super easy stuff like green branches, cedar etc. I always saw this as a practical real world applicable skill that should be used on local dead\gathered materials. And around here the dead wood like choke cherry is classified as ''hard'' hardwood. I worked on some purpose dried choke cherry last year and got to were I was comfortable, in regard to actually using it to start a fire. I believe that the point is to be able to start a fire with local materials, and if that is achieved, I could care less how fancy the work is\looks.
Do you guys find that a Scandi, Convexed, or standard V grind works better for feather sticks? Thinner stock blades over thick?
Do you guys find that a Scandi, Convexed, or standard V grind works better for feather sticks? Thinner stock blades over thick?