Show your jigs. Steadyhanded purists beware. :D

JG Custom Metal Works

JG Custom Metal Works

Joined
Nov 27, 2013
Messages
1,626
I know many here use jigs and I thought it would be a good idea for us to share our designs. I'd like to see what everyone's got and maybe make some improvements. Mine is super simple and I copied from Cody/Adventure Sworn. He did a real good write-up on it here:

http://bushcraftusa.com/forum/showthread.php/81426-Scandi-Grinding-Jig-Tutorial

I also bought Fred Rowe's Bubble Jig which works real well for setting the correct angle. It also works great for learning to freehand.

I angle the work rest to the desired angle and grind away. It has been a life saver and I've had pretty consistent grinds. The only issue I've had is that my Craftsmen 2x42's work rest isn't the most level so I have to do a lot of adjusting to make sure the bevels are ground even. This is when Fred's Bubble Jig comes in handy. I've ground everything from 2in neck knives all the way up to 10in choppers.

Anyway here's a few pics of mine:







Here are a couple made using the jig.



 
I've used something similar. Just a piece of angle that i squared up (ground so that the outer faces are true perpendicular)
Set the work rest to an acute angle and grind each side. I grind almost to the centerline scribe then adjust the angle. If you color the bevel with a marker you will see when you need to adjust the angle (when all the marker is gone)
As you adjust the angle to be less and less acute (closer to 90) the grind line with move up the blade until you get it where you want it or until you reach the spine for full flat grind.
 
My version of a similar sled jig gets tightened down by butterfly nuts on one side and a gripable bolt head on the other (don't know what they're called). The other difference (I think it's different) is that my holes in the jig are large and and there are a few of them to make it variable dependent upon where my lightening holes are. As long as you can use a large washer you can lock it down.
 
Well I see that people are using as I do. the same ideas for a great working jig . The sled but can be far more useable if you make it big enough to have 4 bolts - one at each corner and far enough apart that your handle will go between and of course an adjustable table long enough to accommodate the length of the of the sled and the blade. That means two blocks of say micarta. I know a lot of hard woods won't work because of the water dipping thing.I use two grinding guide lines. Basically you just follow the guide lines but of course adjust your table for the angle needed. You can grind pretty much any blade you want with this simple set up. Yes, you can do Persians, recurves, and boots.
Frank
 
This is my favorite jig :)


DSC01994.JPG
 
Fred I always think your avatar is a muppet or kids show character until you post a photo of the bubble jig and it snaps back into perspective for me.:rolleyes:
Would love to see more jigs! You guys are more clever than I
 
Frank Niro said:
Well I see that people are using as I do. the same ideas for a great working jig . The sled but can be far more useable if you make it big enough to have 4 bolts - one at each corner and far enough apart that your handle will go between and of course an adjustable table long enough to accommodate the length of the of the sled and the blade. That means two blocks of say micarta. I know a lot of hard woods won't work because of the water dipping thing.I use two grinding guide lines. Basically you just follow the guide lines but of course adjust your table for the angle needed. You can grind pretty much any blade you want with this simple set up. Yes, you can do Persians, recurves, and boots.
Frank
Click to expand...

I don't think many people realize how great this works. I built one after hearing you describe it and I have been very pleases with it. It was super easy to make and cuts a ton of time out of grinding.

I took some quick pics because I know you don't mr. Niro, I can't believe that this isn't more popular. Thanks for the recommendation :)

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I just used a couple sheets of 3/4" micarta and some binding posts. It took a little work to get it all lined up, but it's the best jig I have ever used!
 
Hmmmm... that's a interesting design. That gives me an idea.

I have to work on a skinner here in a few and will maybe take a few more pics.
 
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DLC knives. I'm pleased you did make it up posted it, and appreciate saying I put it up !!! I couldn't post pictures - still don't - and I honestly believe a lot of people thought it was too simple to work well. Who wants to spend money and time on something they believe won't work. I just do folder blades . Lots have grinds on both sides. I don't change the blade but just turn the sled upside down. I use a small metal block on the other end from the blade the same thickness as the blade. Sometimes I just add a few wraps of masking tape of take some off. It's what an old guy like me calls "the real cat's whiskers". Frank
 
Peter, I would love more detailed photos of that hinge setup you have going on there. Very cool idea!
 
Isn't the hinge thing where you do one side fully and take the blade out turn it around to do the other side? You may not find the proper "spot" when you turn it and as well there's a chance the blade will warp or bend doing it that way, all one side and then the other, whereas if you use the micarta block ( mine isn't a nice brown like his) and the tilting table you do one grind on one side and then the same grind on the other. I do blades down to about .080 and don't get problems. This is simple but don't try to go more simple. Yes I did try that to at one time. Frank
 
whats the dimensions of that micarta jig you're using? Where did you find a block of that size?
 
Frank's assessment of my jig design is correct. The tendency to warp blades(especially thin stock), as well as that "spot" thing are both drawbacks. However, my over-riding limitation is my Square Wheel grinder where platen angle adjustment is just more time consuming and troublesome than accommodation my jig's deficiencies. I have a version of a block sled jig that I haven't used(for this purpose) in many years. I suppose after 8-9 years I'm just used to working with the two versions of this design that I have.

In a sense, by not having that alignment "spot", I'm freehand jigging!! :D

-Peter
 
Frank Niro said:
Well I see that people are using as I do. the same ideas for a great working jig . The sled but can be far more useable if you make it big enough to have 4 bolts - one at each corner and far enough apart that your handle will go between and of course an adjustable table long enough to accommodate the length of the of the sled and the blade. That means two blocks of say micarta. I know a lot of hard woods won't work because of the water dipping thing.I use two grinding guide lines. Basically you just follow the guide lines but of course adjust your table for the angle needed. You can grind pretty much any blade you want with this simple set up. Yes, you can do Persians, recurves, and boots.
Frank
Click to expand...

How do you grind a recurve with that jig? Just straight across the work rest like normal or what?
 
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