Show your jigs. Steadyhanded purists beware. :D

[worldwood]

Nice jigs guys. Posting to subscribe.

Is there anywhere that sells basic jigs like in the first posts for a fair price?

That bubble jig looks awesome as well. I may need to try one eventually... just kind of pricey for me.

 

[Fred.Rowe]

Nice jigs guys. Posting to subscribe.

Is there anywhere that sells basic jigs like in the first posts for a fair price?

That bubble jig looks awesome as well. I may need to try one eventually... just kind of pricey for me.

Try one; they come money back, if you don't think they are worth every penny. We have never had one returned in 4 years, with several thousand sold.

 

[worldwood]

Try one; they come money back, if you don't think they are worth every penny. We have never had one returned in 4 years, with several thousand sold.

Yes sir, i believe it is worth the money!! But i live on a military disability check and just starting thinking about making knives. Im in the hole already and had to finance most the stuff i ordered.

But in time!! I love the concept of it and think it would be great to help me learn how to get the right angles and even bevels. I have watched all the youtube videos i could find on it several times

Ill grab me one as soon as money permits me to do so!!

Thanks for the reply,

Richard

 

[Frank Niro]

Peter, if it works for you all is good as I say below. !!! Frank

 

[Frank Niro]

Well this sounds too simple too but you just follow the grind lines which means you will move the end of the sled out or in while still laying flat on the table that has the set angle.
Fred is a good guy and I've read many, many times how his jig has helped people move ahead on the grinding. It is more "free hand" too. It might help you to overall move ahead faster if you are just starting out in knife making. I went to this many years after I started and have never gone back. Frank

 

[ChristoDart]

Mine is super simple but has been consistent thus far. New to making knives but just using an angle piece of mild steel has made a world of difference.

 

[FTO_dude]

This is a seemingly common way of jig grinding and it absolutely boggles my mind! Its totally illogical to me!
Why would you want something that offers no support to the actual part being ground?
By the time you get to the tip your hand hold is so far away from the action. Your feel must be so greatly reduced!
And then you end up having to build a comically oversized rest

Christodarts way is absolutely better, but could be improved upon even more.

You will need;
A rest that tilts
A length of dressed 2x4
2x screws

Cut a piece of 2x4 to length and screw your blank to the 2" side. I use 2x 1/8" screws either in 2 dedicated holes or the ordinary pin holes drilled to 1/8 and expanded later.
Block goes on the rest, adjust the angle to fit your grind. Go nuts.
Blade is fully supported in every direction. Easy to apply force exactly where you need it because your hand can be directly behind it.
2x4s are super cheap and light.
I have used a piece of angle iron in the past on a job that benefited from the repeatability but the action itself was much more tiring since it has more weight and the major hand hold is just pinching a piece of steel.
Also having an adjustable rest is super useful for a whole bunch of other things

 

[ChristoDart]

I agree with FTOdude on the block method where both sides are exposed. It seems like you wouldn't have as much control. I feel like I benefit greatly from being able to position my hand behind where the blade is being ground. It keeps even pressure and keeps the grind flat against the platen. My work rest is adjustable.. Not precisely, but I adjust it as need be while grinding until I find the angle it needs to be. Only way I can see making it better is having a sturdier,more adjustable, precision ground work rest and a precision ground 90* angle to hold the blade. The 90* metal knife "holder/jig" would also benefit greatly from evenly spaced precisely drilled holes in it for consistency when reversing to the other side to grind. Snody has recently been selling a grinding jig similar to what I am describing.

 

[JG Custom Metal Works]

This is a seemingly common way of jig grinding and it absolutely boggles my mind! Its totally illogical to me!
Why would you want something that offers no support to the actual part being ground?
By the time you get to the tip your hand hold is so far away from the action. Your feel must be so greatly reduced!
And then you end up having to build a comically oversized rest

Christodarts way is absolutely better, but could be improved upon even more.

You will need;
A rest that tilts
A length of dressed 2x4
2x screws

Cut a piece of 2x4 to length and screw your blank to the 2" side. I use 2x 1/8" screws either in 2 dedicated holes or the ordinary pin holes drilled to 1/8 and expanded later.
Block goes on the rest, adjust the angle to fit your grind. Go nuts.
Blade is fully supported in every direction. Easy to apply force exactly where you need it because your hand can be directly behind it.
2x4s are super cheap and light.
I have used a piece of angle iron in the past on a job that benefited from the repeatability but the action itself was much more tiring since it has more weight and the major hand hold is just pinching a piece of steel.
Also having an adjustable rest is super useful for a whole bunch of other things

Your inability to articulate criticism in an nonabrasive manner boggles MY mind! ;D

Seriously though, I don't think I'm following you about the whole "no support to the actual part being ground" thing. I have one hand on the sled/tang and the other supporting/pushing the blade side into the belt. If I'm doing a big blade(like the 10in chopper I posted a pic of) I'll keep the blade-side hand towards the belly/tip of the knife. My grind lines have been coming out straight and consistent so I feel like I have pretty good control. Also, I got the idea from Chad/Adventure Sworn(link posted in OP) and I'm not sure if you've seen his work but his work definitely demonstrates a high level of control.

Again, maybe I'm not following you, or hell, maybe I'm not explaining my technique clearly. Either way, I made this thread to learn and get different ideas, and your idea sounds interesting. I think I might have seen a video of Jose Diaz making his Bushcrafting scandi blade with a jig like you're talking about.

Do you have any pictures of your setup? I'd like to see it. I'll try and get a video up of mine here in a bit.

Oh and IIRC that long ass tool rest you you posted a pic of is almost comical. I think that person was using it for swords though.

 

[FTO_dude]

Sorry! Try reading it in a more jovial tone. You'll know when im trying to be abrasive

Isnt it funny that I didnt even consider putting your hand on the blade?
Half the reason i grind on a jig is so I dont have to worry about heat as much and im never going to burn my fingers.
Im just imagining either holding the block end down or the tip end up so it doesnt just flick down when the tip is in contact on a possibly less than sharp belt.
And its just like, why? When I can have a piece of wood do it for me.

Yes that picture was from someone grinding swords, though not all the time, but the concept still applies.
You ground a 10 blade on yours so your rest extends 10"+ either side of the platen?
And by using 2 piece of angle iron like that one and yours you also have to extend the rest back behind the belt.
Which means you have to move the rest to change belts over? that time and effort adds up

I'll post a picture when i get home but i might have to profile a blade first so I have something to grind lol

 

[Frank Niro]

Unfortunately, there is no improvement in a jig that still requires the blade to be changed from side to side and the consequences of doing that. There isn't a problem with your hand being on the sled controlling from a distance away. If you want to "have a feel for it" get rid of the jig entirely. A jig is for those who are looking for a help even if a small one. I say these things for the people who just might want to try another way as the go along. I will add this only to show you the work I do using this same jig. Please go to Custom Knife Gallery and look at some of my work and understand if you live anywhere near bye give me a contact and you will be welcome to come and give my jig a try.
I usually get a couple of makers a year to get help making liner locks. How much help they get and how much they learn on their own I can't say, however I am always pleased to see them continuing making the liner locks. These same makers see my jig know I use, are welcome to try or use it but never do. They already have the grinding skill to go forward with. I don't use this for speed; I use this because it helps me do a better job, something others may not need. Frank

 

[JG Custom Metal Works]

Sorry! Try reading it in a more jovial tone. You'll know when im trying to be abrasive

Isnt it funny that I didnt even consider putting your hand on the blade?
Half the reason i grind on a jig is so I dont have to worry about heat as much and im never going to burn my fingers.
Im just imagining either holding the block end down or the tip end up so it doesnt just flick down when the tip is in contact on a possibly less than sharp belt.
And its just like, why? When I can have a piece of wood do it for me.

Yes that picture was from someone grinding swords, though not all the time, but the concept still applies.
You ground a 10 blade on yours so your rest extends 10"+ either side of the platen?
And by using 2 piece of angle iron like that one and yours you also have to extend the rest back behind the belt.
Which means you have to move the rest to change belts over? that time and effort adds up

I'll post a picture when i get home but i might have to profile a blade first so I have something to grind lol

It's all good, I was just ribbing ya a little.

As far as burning finger tips, I usually just use a push stick or wrap a little rag over my finger a few times. I really like being able to see over top of the edge where the belt is hitting the blade. I suppose you could cut a relief in the 2x4 to get the same view.

In regards to having the belt catch the tip of the blade and having it flip up, I've never experienced that. I'm holding the tang/sled pretty firmly and I think you would almost have to jab the tip into the belt to make that happen. With my setup I bet it would just maim the tip and on yours I bet the belt would just hit the 2x4 where it sticks out beyond the tip. Either way I don't think it's much of an issue.

Now, you make a real good point about a 2 piece design hanging off the back of a tool rest. After reading this thread though and seeing other designs I think I've thought of a fix for that. What I'm thinking is that I'm going to glue/jb weld one of the pieces of angle iron to a piece of flat plate steel that is the size of the entire jig when together. Then the bottom would be one solid piece. I might even make it a little larger than the jig. I'm not sure if this would totally solve the issue of needing the tool rest behind/to the side of the platen but i think it would help the design structurally.

 

[stezann]

I use the rest to support the blade during grinding and i find it immensly helpful.
The grinding angle is not much an issue, since i work it toward the spine slowly pass after pass switching side frequently. The real issue for me is keeping the blade parallel to the belt during passes, and trying to avoid "smiling" grind lines I can't imagine a simple jig helping with this kind of tilting especially on long blades...I guess the disk is the answer for flat grinds

 

[Storm Crow]

And then you end up having to build a comically oversized rest

Hah! That's *my* comically oversized work rest!

As long as I've been making knives, I still am new to complete stock removal. So my way is by no means *the* way, or necessarily even a good way. I'm still trying to learn how to be consistent with grinding. That one, as noted, is for grinding bush swords with blade lengths up to 18". Hence the 4 foot long work rest. Given time, and if it seems to be something worth pursuing, I may build a shorter rest for the more everyday knives.

More pics of grinding assisting-devices all around, please!

 

[JG Custom Metal Works]

Hah! That's *my* comically oversized work rest!

As long as I've been making knives, I still am new to complete stock removal. So my way is by no means *the* way, or necessarily even a good way. I'm still trying to learn how to be consistent with grinding. That one, as noted, is for grinding bush swords with blade lengths up to 18". Hence the 4 foot long work rest. Given time, and if it seems to be something worth pursuing, I may build a shorter rest for the more everyday knives.

More pics of grinding assisting-devices all around, please!

Lol, I said "almost."

Also, I stuck up for ya. I knew it was for swords. I knew because I made a mental note for when/if I ever get to the level of being able to do blades like that. After seeing Dan Keffler's Super Ninja Assassin Katana I think I might try down the road a bit.

I would love to see some more pics of the tool rest if you had them.

 

[worldwood]

. After seeing Dan Keffler's Super Ninja Assassin Katana I think I might try down the road a bit.

I would love to see some more pics of the tool rest if you had them.

The super assassin is indeed awesome! I really like the WAKI 2.0 as well!! I would do some crazy things for one of them. He does great work. I have one of his competition knives. That thing is a BEAST!

 

[JG Custom Metal Works]

The super assassin is indeed awesome! I really like the WAKI 2.0 as well!! I would do some crazy things for one of them. He does great work. I have one of his competition knives. That thing is a BEAST!

I'm gonna attempt to make a bladesport chopper here soon. I've gotten a bunch of help from the Bladesport guys, they're awesome people. Hell, after just looking back at my "Bladesport Chopper" thread is looks like you were a part of it.

Anyway, I think I posted up a flat grinding chart(for finding what angle to use) in that thread that I poached from another member here. I can't remember who posted it first but it would definitely be relevant here.

View attachment Blade Angle Grind Chart-Steven Penner.pdf

 

[worldwood]

Yep, i remember your thread!!! I cant wait to see what you create and hope to one day meet up with you at an event. I have only been to one so far but its a very fun time and you get to meet up with so many talented people!

 

[worldwood]

I got a message from Mr. Fred Rowe this morning telling me that a couple members here anonymously contacted him to make sure i received one of his Bubble Jigs. Im truly grateful to whoever is responsible for this and wanted to thank you personally, since im not sure who it was i figured the best way to do this was here in this thread.

So, from the bottom of my heart thank you. Your generosity is amazing and truly heart touching. In a world where there is so much negativity and hate its inspiring when things like this happens and goes to show there are still so many great people around.

I cant express how grateful i am in words. Thank you truly.

Richard

 

[worldwood]

Thanks again fellas!

Looks like a well built quality tool!! I will give it a go tomorrow and see how well it works.... More like see how well "I" work with it!! LOL