Sledge Hammers!

A track chisel should have a more rounded bit. My hunch is that you'll lose the heel and toe to chipping if you go at it with that.

Also, I don't think you'll be successful actually dividing a 3 foot piece of track by that method. My understanding is that the track chisel was used to score the track all the way around. Then the portion to be removed was cantelevered over a tie and hammered hard with a sledge, tearing off the section track along the score line. The remaining end needs to be stable enough to resist the hammering.

If you hope to make this cut you'll need a means to stabilize your rail for the hammering.
 
Last edited:
jblyttle said:
BTW, many people claim that RR track is hardened (usually when talking about how it makes a decent anvil substitute), but it is not. The top may become work hardened, but RR track is not hardened steel in the way that people think.
Click to expand...

This is what I've read, too. Not hardened. But it's supposed to be high carbon steel. Old track was said to be 1080. Weygers, in his book 'the complete modern blacksmith' describes how to flatten and harden track for use as an anvil.
 
Square_peg said:
A track chisel should have a more rounded bit. My hunch is that you'll lose the heel and toe to chipping if you go at it with that.

Also, I don't think you'll be successful actually dividing a 3 foot piece of track by that method. My understanding is that the track chisel was used to score the track all the way around. Then the portion to be removed was cantelevered over a tie and hammered hard with a sledge, tearing off the section track along the score line. The remaining end needs to be stable enough to resist the hammering.

If you hope to make this cut you'll need a means to stabilize your rail for the hammering.
Click to expand...

That's what I have read as well, I should have clarified. I'm not going to try to cut all the way through with just the chisel. I'll watch the corners and re-profile in needed. And of course I will post my results.

BTW, my 3 foot section is a test. If it isn't too much trouble, I can buy 11 feet of newer heavy rail (about 50 pounds per foot!) for $150.
 
jblyttle said:
That's what I have read as well, I should have clarified. I'm not going to try to cut all the way through with just the chisel. I'll watch the corners and re-profile in needed. And of course I will post my results.

BTW, my 3 foot section is a test. If it isn't too much trouble, I can buy 11 feet of newer heavy rail (about 50 pounds per foot!) for $150.
Click to expand...
shoot JB, i got 20 feet of the 3/4 size stuff and about 20 support plates. they used to use maul looking things to cut them...
catTrackChisel.JPG
they need some securing but about 3 foot makes a good anvil for everything but a sledge. in my experience, all rail steel is good, but not equal. RR spikes are a little soft but they dont need a temper, just a water quench while rail steel is very hardenable
 
jblyttle said:
That's what I have read as well, I should have clarified. I'm not going to try to cut all the way through with just the chisel. I'll watch the corners and re-profile in needed. And of course I will post my results.

BTW, my 3 foot section is a test. If it isn't too much trouble, I can buy 11 feet of newer heavy rail (about 50 pounds per foot!) for $150.
Click to expand...

How did or didn't it go?
 
Square_peg said:
Pennsylvania RR specs look very similar to my CMStP&P tool gauge. Very rounded cutting edge.

Track%20chisels%2077270-C.jpg

1.jpg


Care of the tool is described here by a major maker of railroad tools.

http://cedarriverforge.com/Photo-index/Tools/Railroad tools/Hubbard-complete.pdf

Page from the pdf above:
Hubbard1.jpg


And I've posted this before but some of the new folks may not have seen it.
The%20Use%20and%20Abuse%20of%20the%20Track%20Chisel.jpg

The%20Use%20and%20Abuse%20of%20the%20Track%20Chisel-2.jpg
Click to expand...

Another great read. Thanks, yes I had not come across this posting before.
I am impressed with the language and examples of right and wrong as well as the image of a poorly ground chisel.
The track pieces show just how much fun it must have been and is still to score that rail. What pressure to score and then sever under the time schedules demanded...with a load of passengers mulling about waiting.

I like how one of the sales agents for Verona Tool was the author.
 
Square_peg said:
...it's supposed to be high carbon steel. Old track was said to be 1080...
Click to expand...

There are a bunch of online mentions of 1080 (or thereabouts) being the steel used for rail. It could take a lot of work for a blacksmith to repurpose it into something thin (like a blade). However, there's a company that splits lengths of old rail and transforms it into Tee Posts. So, perhaps some scrap Tee Posts could be a good source of high carbon steel for blacksmiths?


teepost3.jpg

Re-heating and Splitting Rail Steel
from Chicago Heights Steel

teepost4.jpg

Finished Product - Tee Posts
from Chicago Heights Steel


-----------------------------------------------

example from an online retailer:
6 Foot T-Post
$3.29
"Traditional tee posts from Chicago Heights Steel provide outstanding strength, ease of use and durability for years to come. Strength, because these posts are Rail Steel..."
007020025.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top