Slip joint lube of choice

Olive oil, put a small drop on the pivot, whipe it over the blade and if I have an organic material handle it gets there as well. Gives a nice shine to the knife, and it smells good as well.
 
Olive Oil? Seriously? ...I'm not mocking, I'm truly intrigued...

Anyway; I've used Break Free on all of my firearms and blades for well, forever. It works well, though you do need to wipe the excess off occasionally, as well as keep an eye on slippies because it will actually clean out the crud on the inside and the crud makes it's way out. Not a problem for the knife, just the grime will get on anything it touches.
 
MPro7 has a lube/cleaner that is non-toxic. Apparently the military uses it. I use MPro7 stuff to clean my guns because ot toxicity of my old faves.
 
I use shell handy oil. Great lubricant and rust inhibitor ready and cheap available and food safe. I use it for everything.
 
akadave2 said:
It may not kill you but its not designed for food processing machinery. That being said, none of the synthetics out there will harm you in small amounts.

Here is the list of food grade lubes from Shell. http://www.foodlubricants.co.uk/food_grade_oils.asp
Click to expand...

Yeah it`s designed for utalitarian use around the house. When I used to work for shell I had a hard long look at the datasheet for the Handy Oil. Like you said, not really food safe, but no harmful either.
 
For me it´s mineral oil, when brass or nickel silver is used.

For steel construction; I prefer Ballistol (which is made here in Bavaria, just about 50 miles away from my home). I used it some years ago for all of my knifes but made a bad experience on a nice F. Hartkopf knife with brass liners. Just for a little explanation - Ballistol is made as a weapon oil and it should remove brass rests inside the barrel, so it can (!) corode the brass pretty heavy.

Mineral oil in generl is my first choice - cheap and very useful :)

EDIT: I don´t care too much for food-safety on my knife oils. Imo - I don´t drink it - I just add a very thin film on a blade when I plan not to use the knife for a period. (And Ballistol is food safe - at least here in Germany)
 
Last edited:
I use Victorinox Multi Tool oil. Seems to work pretty well and doesn't attract all the contents in my pocket as stickier oils would.
 
If I have a knife with a really stiff action, I use Rock "N" Roll Gold bicycle chain lube. It's a PTFE (Teflon) based lubricant diluted with hexane. The hexane cleans out gunk, the PTFE smooths out the action.

Aside from that I usually use mineral oil.
 
Steeltoe said:
Olive oil, put a small drop on the pivot, whipe it over the blade and if I have an organic material handle it gets there as well. Gives a nice shine to the knife, and it smells good as well.
Click to expand...

I do not use Olive oil as it is sticky and goes rancid

It is much thicker than baby oil, and it gets dirty and is much harder to clean out
And when it goes rancid, it is quite unpleasant
Also olive oil stains and is much hard to launder both the smell and stain out of clothing

(we grow olive oil here where groves cover whole mountain sides)
 
Tuf-Glide for pivots and Tuf-Cloth for carbon/CV blades. I've used 3 in 1 and mineral oil too.
 
I think i've tried it all and i've gone to aerosol canola oil from walmart or wherever!It's cheap,readily available, and works great!
 
I have used Tri Flow for a long time with good results. I use Ballistol too, but not for my brass lined folders as Andi has mentioned. I coat my carbon damascus blades with Ballistol. I use Tuf Cloth on my polished carbon blades.



Kris
 
My Wahl beard trimmer came with a tiny bottle labeled "blade oil" it works very well...
 
Mineral oil, USP grade. I agree with neeman, vegetable oils like olive oil will go rancid. It may not go rancid on a knife used daily and cleaned regularly, but for any stored knives, it might.

Mineral oil is very similar to vegetable oils but will not break down over time.

Most motor oils are a little too heavy for slipjoints, may not permeate between the spring and liners, etc. you may want to try mineral oil instead.

One problem with the oil and graphite method is that it can screw up light bone bolsters. The graphite can stain the bone around the pins and edges of the covers. I've had this happen on knives, where the graphite was from maker, but the oil was what I used.
 
Right now I'm using Slip 2000 from my guns in mine. Its a great oil but probably not the best for a knife. Its a very "wet" oil meaning it i have to wipe the thing off before I use it after lubing up otherwise I'll have a nice oil pocket. I should be using something more edible friendly for when I eat with the knife but it works for me for now.
 
I've always used 3-in-1 oil. Gotta admit I love the smell. I never use my pocket knives for eating.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top