small batch quench oil

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Wow, we have Lake Milton, Akron and Medina in the house. Sound like a meet and greet is in order.
 
You should get a fast quench oil for 1095, a gallon of Mcmaster-Carr 11 sec oil would probably be enough for smaller knives and is relatively affordable.
 
We are practically neighbors..... as the crow flies, that is.

medinawheatley.png
 
Rick, you can swim to the border and I can pick you up with the boat. :D

It is a shame we live so close but in two different worlds.
 
When I began using 1095, I used a canola oil mixture. It seem to work OK at the time, because I didn't have anything to compare it with and didn't know any better.

I later upgraded to a professional quenching oil, and the difference was quite apparent.

The blades were considerably harder (confirmed with a hardness tester), and edge retention increased as a result.

This was obvious when doing regrinds after HT and then sharpening. Anyone could notice a distinct difference between the canola and professional oil quenched blades.

It also eliminated the warped or cracked blades that I had been experiencing with the canola oil mixture.

Professional quenching oil is well worth the expense; it's certainly not "hype".
 
This thread started oout slow, but has seemed to pick up steam.

Anyways. I ordered my Evenheat KF18 today and should be here in the next couple weeks, so I will be using that to get to temp. I'll look into McMaster and the fast quench. I just don't want to get into anything expensive that will be used once and put away. Someone mentioned used diesel oil, which is funny, because I have about 30 gallons sitting along the perimeter of my garage, due to having a 6.0 Powerstroke for 5 years (now it's a 6.7 powestroke :)).

I do not intend to use 10** steel in the future. I am concerned about the fumes and smoke, storing the oil, the actual quenching process. My wife has a nose like a bloodhound, and swears that anything that doesn't smell like roses gives her a headache, plus a Dachshund that will cower in a corner when I cook on the stove, I do not want to expose them to the fumes and potential smoke. By the way, this is all in my attached garage. I have little room to spare, and storing a container full of oil isn't something I have room for (or want to work around). If I can get away with a gallon of quench, and doing it to get the upcoming blades done, all the better.

Ohio guys. Grinder is set up, but needs to be moved, as the bench is a little high, and I am not comfortable grinding at that level. HT kiln will be here in a couple weeks. If I get really ambitious this weekend, I might get the head of my Bridgeport back on and get it operational (and maybe figure out why the Y axis will move towards the column but will not come back). Maybe we can get together somewhere, talk, grind, HT or whatever. Maybe you can show me how to run these things too. :)

Aaron
 
AWGunS said:
This thread started oout slow, but has seemed to pick up steam.

Anyways. I ordered my Evenheat KF18 today and should be here in the next couple weeks, so I will be using that to get to temp. I'll look into McMaster and the fast quench. I just don't want to get into anything expensive that will be used once and put away. Someone mentioned used diesel oil, which is funny, because I have about 30 gallons sitting along the perimeter of my garage, due to having a 6.0 Powerstroke for 5 years (now it's a 6.7 powestroke :)).

I do not intend to use 10** steel in the future. I am concerned about the fumes and smoke, storing the oil, the actual quenching process. My wife has a nose like a bloodhound, and swears that anything that doesn't smell like roses gives her a headache, plus a Dachshund that will cower in a corner when I cook on the stove, I do not want to expose them to the fumes and potential smoke. By the way, this is all in my attached garage. I have little room to spare, and storing a container full of oil isn't something I have room for (or want to work around). If I can get away with a gallon of quench, and doing it to get the upcoming blades done, all the better.

Ohio guys. Grinder is set up, but needs to be moved, as the bench is a little high, and I am not comfortable grinding at that level. HT kiln will be here in a couple weeks. If I get really ambitious this weekend, I might get the head of my Bridgeport back on and get it operational (and maybe figure out why the Y axis will move towards the column but will not come back). Maybe we can get together somewhere, talk, grind, HT or whatever. Maybe you can show me how to run these things too. :)

Aaron
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I am moving to more air hardening steels, they cost more to start with but you don't need any oil.

Maybe send the 1095 off for heat treat then get some different steel. You will also do well with canola oil and slower quenching, through hardening steels like 5160.

Remember you have to temper them in an oven too, canola is safe to cook! A toaster oven is a good thing to have in the shop to keep everyone happy!
 
AWGunS said:
If I get really ambitious this weekend, I might get the head of my Bridgeport back on and get it operational (and maybe figure out why the Y axis will move towards the column but will not come back).
Aaron
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My guess is that the drive nut on the lead screw is no longer captive. Turn the screw one way and the nut pushes against what it WAS attached to. Turn the screw the other way and the nut freewheels. Never repaired a Bridgeport but have designed, built, and repaired more screw driven equipment than you can shake a stick at ;-)
 
Aaron-

I wouldn't try to talk you into oil hardening steels, but after reading your last post I gotta ask- You do realize that almost everything in knifemaking is going to cause very bad dust and stink right?

Grinding a micarta, G10, Ironwood, stag, sheephorn, etc. etc. etc. handle is going to make way more of a mess and stink than quenching a blade in oil. :eek:
 
If you're worried about smell then definitely go with a commercial quench or even fresh cooking oil over the used diesel oil. I think you'll find the price of McMasters fast quench to be fair for a gallon. IIRC the last time I bought 5 gallons it was around $80.. never mind, just checked and a gallon of 11 second quench is $17.79. McMaster's fast quench smells like melted crayons and smokes less than machine/engine oil (especially used) so it puts off less smoke to begin with.

As for a NE Ohio gathering, sounds good to me, like Mike my weekends are booked through most of October, maybe a good winter plan to keep on the radar. Then Rick can crawl across the ice and we can pick him up in The Flats.

I'll probably be out at the Medina Gun Show a couple of times before then if you ever go to that.



NickWheeler said:
Aaron-

I wouldn't try to talk you into oil hardening steels, but after reading your last post I gotta ask- You do realize that almost everything in knifemaking is going to cause very bad dust and stink right?
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It's easier to ask for forgiveness than permission ;)
 
You may want to try Ford Type F auto transmission fluid. This was recommended to me by a well known maker. Available at WalMart @ approx. $5/Quart. I'm sure others will offer opinions on whether or not this is advisable.
 
i4Marc said:
You may want to try Ford Type F auto transmission fluid. This was recommended to me by a well known maker. Available at WalMart @ approx. $5/Quart. I'm sure others will offer opinions on whether or not this is advisable.
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That's twenty dollars per gallon.
At that price you could just buy proper quench oil.
 
Besides the problem of ATF not being a good quench oil, this is a thread from 2011.....LOCKED.
 
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